kecam

Ok this has been on the backburner way too long and not much has been done over the break. Got a cert booked for it tomorrow then off for the wof re-check once I get the plate. Since last post just finished putting everything back together, and my bumpers are back rechromed ( what a cost..) and on the car looking sex. Need a buff + polish though. After it's on the road don't have too many big plans because i'm a poor student but probably just a big tune up for the motor, brakes overhauled and some good sounds. May re-do the tints professionally if I have some spare coin.

Yeah, it's been bled a few times due to caliper fucking out then old master cylinder so if there's any air in the system it should be hardly any although i'll give a full re-bleed yet another go. The minimal brake pressure which goes back to being 0 after a millasecond of applying the brake is what gets me, everything points to master cyl/booster but theyve been replaced.

I will try another big bleed but since there is already fluid at all nipples there should at least be some braking power or at least a pedal which goes to the floor. If there was a pinched line am I correct in saying the rear brakes should at least still work? I didn't touch the proportioning valve because neither front or rear work

Yeah I bench bled the master cylinder to a point but that wouldn't explain the circumstances if I hadn't anyway. The lines are plumbed right - The new master cyl/booster doesn't lock up anymore, the brakes just don't come on at all

Got a bit of a problem here, will write out what i've been upto in hope of having enough details. 72 corolla (disc front drum rear) running a celica supra booster and master cylinder. All was fine as was putting the car back together and as I was bleeding the brakes found the front LH caliper bleed nipple was cross threaded so got a 2nd hand caliper with another nipple. Put the caliper in and at the same time had to take out the brake setup(lines, prop valve etc) and turn them around. As I was doing the re-bleed the brakes would stick on hard at the front (at the front at least) with 1 pump of the brake and the only way to release them was to bleed the pressure out. Bought a 2nd hand master cyl (the same type) and also received the booster with it. Installed them yesterday and filled up the resivour with brake fluid. Stepped on the pedal and it sunk to the floor (like there was nothing behind) so I opened up the bleed valve on the master cyl to get the fluid through it. Tried again and this time the brake pedal stops hard after a short distance and will go no further.(like with the old booster/master cyl but this time the brakes do not lock on) When putting your foot down there is the most minimal amount of braking power to the front brakes that lasts for a milasecond before the wheel becomes free spinning again even with foot flat down. It's like putting your foot against a brick instead of the gradual stiffness the brake pedal usually has. There's no braking power to either rear nor front. The rubber brake hoses are new and with the master cyl and booster being swapped/replaced i'm running out of ideas?

Noticed the car is leaning to its left side at rear so assuming it's the right suspension. Will drop the shock out and see if that's the problem. Hope it's not the leafs

A few more pics. Borrowing a camera for them so limited to when and what I can take at the moment. Front assembly Acquired the plate that used to be on the car

Cheers for the comments guys! @ AE25 - Damn I had trouble finding any 175/50/15s but in the end i'm real happy with the 165s, at first I thought they were too much of an overkill but they don't actually looked too stretched at all It was quite hard to put them on the simmons because they have a higher bead line apparently.

Keeper Springs (or slipper) I'm looking for some at the moment >_<

I got it done as a cashy through a contact. I could imagine it being really expensive at shop rates. I couldn't take my car into a shop at the stage it was in aswell. The wiring was fucked to put it lightely, lots of extra wiring and old alarm systems and killswitches and stereo bullshit. Badly soldered and joined wires everywhere. Pretty much got him to rip out anything that didnt come factory and rewire it using the existing wires. He connected it all properly with terminals and crimping etc and just got it to the stage where it was as tidy as could be with everything working perfect and left the aftermarket (sounds etc) up to me to install over the top of the clean wiring. I think it ended up costing me 280$? 2 full days labour + materials. I'm a student this year so have no funds what so ever. Short term looking at keeping the 5k and doing a bit more to get as much power as possible out of it, currently putting out about 85-90kw. Don't know about long term yet

Mag n turbo got them in for me. I know firestone blenheim also have them

haha cheers bro. it's updated to the current day now

Just done a few bits and pieces today, connected all brakes and speedo cable. Having a little trouble with clutch cable so once that is sorted it's drive able. My bumpers got panelbeated, ( thanks to filthyone) i've dismantled them and they are at chch metal finishers getting rechromed. Will be done is 1-2 weeks. During then I have to remount my new recaros and modify the rails, install the seatbelts and front and rear windscreen. Once that is done all it then needs is an overall clean inside and out Then down the track I will work to reinstall my sounds (headunit in glovebox) and get my security sorted out. Doorcards now in and all interior (armrests, door pulls, winders etc) in. Photo as it is today! (165s on)

Got the car rewired by an auto sparky from headlight to taillight including semi de-loomed engine bay and dash rewired. Came out looking very very tidy. Forgot to get pics though. Have put the front brakes back together with new brake hoses. Wired the battery to the boot. Cut and fitted sun visors recovered in black vinyl and refitted rear vision mirror. Put driveshaft in and mounted gearbox shifter and replaced gearbox oil. Have put on the front trims (grill, headlight surrounds, beazels, under grille trim etc) all sanded and painted to match. Was a bit of a mission because i've incorporated the different front ends of the ke20 series into one so had to do a lot of modifying to fit. It also leaves me room to use a huge combination of different fronts, I have a variety of grilles I can use All side windows I tinted 35% and are now in Image before 165s were on

A few more pics of slow progress just messing around with suspension, this is before the 165s were fitted. Dash in and complete, a lot tidier. Notice no wires:P Engine bay still needs a lot of tidying, cables going everywhere and brake lines just sitting ontop