escortwags

Jumping "one tooth" failed turns over fast only one big back fire. Going back to basics and setting tdc now just waiting for mate with timing light Edit Took all of 15 mins and the g/f bumping the starter to find TDC chuck the dizzy back in and what do you know it turns over at normal speeds and runs all be it at 0 degrees bring on the timing light Also note now there is no black smoke on start up or soot spewing out the exhaust

im 99% certain that I'm a tooth to far clockwise hence the massive advance gar I'm over thinking things, will report back at about 6 either with a smiley face or drunken angry thoughts Limited to the amount I can turn the cap due to firewall trying to be friends with it (get about 30 degrees of rotation

sweet will be lazy and try one tooth back as I'm sure thats what happened if that fails will get TDC and start from there. Has some wierd after market timing pointer on it so hopefully there are degree markings for 0 etc - would I assume if there are no marking that dead in the middle of the timing pointer is 0 and anything to the left would be BTDC?

sweet will remove tach wire tonight, and yes only a 2 plug system (12v and tach) on 100% correct by googling it seems ive got the dizzy in way way way to advanced which is causing the slow starter motor issues but in theory if the dizzy rotated further clockwise than it should have wouldnt that have made the timing more retarded?? Will rotate one tooth counter clockwise and see if that fixes everything, failing that will plug #1 plug out get TDC and start from scratch you will probably be getting millions of texts feel like coming to the shore tonight? hahaha will see how I go

install process was as follows - taped a mark where #4 point aligned to something on engine - removed cap - taped a mark where rotor aligned to something on engine - removed - installed new dizzy with rotor pointing at mark although not fully engaged in oil pump bit' - aligned #4 point to the mark - cranked it - dizzy dropped down further which im guessing means it rotated further clockwise but would only be one tooth? got running but barely god im unlucky. Have a mate bringing over a timing light tonight, hopefully all goes well as we are leaving for Kumeu at 8am in the morn

GETTING THERE. OK so new HEI turned up is 100% genuine and is 6094358xbetter than it's china counter part (see below) bunged it in last night and tried firing the bastard which was very hard to start. Also note the tacho was going spastik while cranking and engine was sucking so much power the interior lights were going dim! (battery standing has 12.5volts so definitely enough juice) would kind of crank then go slow try fire repeat etc. did get it running although only holding idle for about 10 seconds sounded way to quite and had a delayed throttle. I lined everything up with where the old dizzy was but think it's off a tooth clockwise (had issues aligning oil pump and think on first crank it sloted in deeper putting it off the mark where it should have lined up MUPPET!) which ill try fix tonight fingers crossed that's all it is? shitty comparison photos below, any ideas on the spastik tacho?

Ha I even have a full set of plugs, and yuck blue MSD leads to. Shall investigate

Have purchased ya bastards. Will update this thread hopefully Thursday night with te outcome Anyone in the market for a sweet china HEI? Haha

good thinking shall get my google on now. The spares look genuine so hopefully the Dizzy works out to be as well. F**k it if it's real deal Ill just buy the bastard. Interwebs is failing me, it just goes on and on about the 6AL units nothing about HEI

Am waiting for a call from Magnum as they are going to dyno/tune it when a free spot comes up. But just want the thing reliably drivable so I can atleast get there and zoom around when I want. Man I really need to buy a timing light

yeh the spares make me want it more (module alone is worth $$$) buuuuuut might just wait for Kumeu to see if there are any deals to be had. Is she just a bolt it out of the box jobby or would I have to change all the advance weights and springs etc,?

so just to confirm if i hit buy now on this there is an 80% chance Ill fix my problem? dont like spending money for no reason (well the missues doesnt like it) http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=684587944

yuh thats what I'm thinking!! it's way to temperamental and weird . I think it just likes attention. Will get a new one at Kumeu and chuck it in while I'm there and see what happens

gar its being such a c*nt its decided it runs mint now. To late to start it again as neighbours don't like loud noises. Will hook up the vac advance tomorrow and see if that makes it a happier chappy. Failing that will try find a bargain priced dizzy at kumeu and just swap it out there

EDIT definitely not a vacuum leak, car dies when rag put over carb then comes back to idle, only thing Iv'e changed to get it idling is a tweak on the floats and pulled all the wires off the dizzy then put them back on

Oh and vacuum advance is not hooked up and never has been *should I jam this on? Ok so no vacumm leak I just timed my rag on the carb wrong I pulled the wires off the HEI put them back on, it started and took a 3 minute video of it idling happy as In gear the revs drop down to 450-500 but that's a tune issue (might need more tranny fluid also) Now starts off the key without touching the gas like it used to Gave it some revs then a small one and a ball of fire from the carb burnt my eyelashes off. So is it a timing issue then? I'm chasing a ghost

Just found a lose manifold bolt and others needed a tweak, going to reset the floats now Car doesn't have to be warm for it to go wierd choke is set to only run for 30 seconds (electric) Running a bunch of the small old looking but new autometer gauges Car running is putting out 14v

Shall do the above although Dre is already next on the cars playlist EDIT yeh, but his one is just a new china poo one as well hahahaha. Not even sure If I could get the dizzy out easily without moving the whole motor forward this just looks like a knock off as well? and poo voltage http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/chevrolet/engines/auction-682925014.htm

ahhh fuck will search for leaks when I get home and if none found will pay someone lots of money as I need it before the weekend - no spark tester, I have a multimeter if I can do anything with that?

it looks exactly like this, down to the same wires etc. coming off the side http://taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_691B%2FC%2FR

ahhhhh yeh one of those units, me thinks. We stripped it down a week or so ago hung over and it seemed oke (solid wires, connecters proper electrical goo crap where it should be, nice and clean and new looking insides) so if it aint a vacuum leak you reckon its that piece of shit playing up? best place to buy a decent replacement?

old plugs were dirty (black), but i've seen 20 x worse that still ran a car fine new plugs are still cleanish - 3 bond grey any good to use to seal between carb and manifold? (only has paper gasket at the mo) - when you free rev it, it sounds like it tries to hit idle for a split second then goes PUTTER PUTTER PUTTER DEAD. (setting idle at 1000rpm)

dont have a wideband (SAD) - was meant to be getting a tune but Magnum is way to busy, but super keen to get to Kumeu without looking like an idiot - running a china 65,000 Volt HEI thing, that looks/is brand new, but im starting to blame it - going to re-adjust float heights tonight, all vacuum ports are plugged bar the signal for the tranny and cant hear any obvious ones. Will try the carb cleaner method to see if something sneaky is happening I guess - will re-tourqe all manifold bolts but they have always been tight so god knows BOX OF BEER TO WHOEVER LEADS ME TO THE FIXABLE ISSUE

Ok so heres a small novel of my dramas....

 355 chev 600 slayer carb 10:1 comp
Comp Cams Camshaft ,Intake lift .507 Duration 284,Exhaust Lift .510 Duration 296,Double Roller Timing Chain Anti Pump-up Lifters 
alloy heads
big valves etc
heaps of other crap done fresh crate motor 2500 stall (can give full spec list if it helps) CAR WAS RUNNING MINT - drove round auckland about 100kms after cert and all was well - skids it likes, high RPM it like - drove up north 350kms and never missed a beat, never had to tap gas to start it etc. - parked car for 3 days in a shed **** - returned to start the car like normal was fine for 10 seconds then lost idle and started puffing black smoke and running on what sounded like no more than 7 WTF - half pulled carb down (which is 400kms old) and nothing in there - pulled plugs (were dirty) cleaned with carb cleaner
- reassembled and it runs again, slighty ruffer than before but still happy **** - drive another 100+kms in between little towns back and forth **** - 2 days later go to start car NO IDLE what so ever, still has balls above 2 grand but anything less it hates - check leads, one is a bit burnt, replaced with a full set of brand new leads and new NGK cheap plugs - car is happy once again, although still not 100% 100+kms driven **** - 1 day later - start car no pedal needed drive for about 5kms, looses idle again, going down hill at 50km/ph car is trying to die, get to bottom of hill and its sounding like shit, need to floor it and pump the pedal like shit to get it started. Pre-stage my way onto car ferry. **** - pulled plugs looked at them and put them back in, car happy for about 5mins, then back to shit **** - change to $$$ NGK platinum plugs, recheck leads (O.K) check inside dizzy (O.K) car is happy, drive 200+kms without a hitch, after that car starts loosing idle again and hates anything under 1,500rpm, doesn't matter as Im going 100 and still has balls although backfire type sounds on decal are wierd - also removed fuel filter which was clean as a whistle **** PRESENT DAY car will start with no pumps and idle off the high speed idle, as soon as choke goes it looses idle and needs foot to the floor pedal pumping to start. sounds like shit below 2000, runs mint up top. Noticed front fuel bowl low but that shouldn't effect idle? WHAT AM I MISSING??? / KNOB
, must get running right for Kumeu fanx

- take a compression tester, only way to know whats going on - If its at 100,000kms+ without a rebuild it's going to need one sooner or later - check cold start, check hot start + thrash it