Truenotch

Tig is a peaceful way to weld, it's like gas welding except with voltage. It's relaxed and tranquil compared to Arc and Mig.

Mig is good for panel work cause it's fast and easy to do. You also put a lot less power straight into the metal so get less bowing of panels with Mig normally. Mig is noisey and sparkly as well - way more disco.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-farmi ... 895208.htm

Thats about as cheap as you'll get for an AC/DC but I don't know if I'd trust it. IMO better off buying from a real shop that has parts and service backup or getting a good brand second hand from an engineer/failed engineer.

If you want to weld alloy you need AC tig capability - all of those inverters look to be DC only.

I'd strongly recommend not buying a new chinese machine from Trademe, unless the seller can supply parts and warranty. You might end up spending on a tig only for a circuit board to blow in 6 months, leaving you up shit creek.

Most AC/DC tig units start around the $2g mark for a decent one. That gets you everything you need to get started apart from Argon - they normally come with an arc handpiece as well. Also for Aluminium you'll want around 200A IMO, so that you can do thicker stuff like pleniums and big alloy brackets.

Also vote we start a low budget OS race series using Honda City's

would be lush as

You have no idea how k33n I am.

it's called the RS cup (Real Slow). We run it in the manfeild winter series, EP82 starlets, KP starlets, CRX's, FXGT's, Old integras random corollas etc...

Honda Citys would fit in perfectly!

Yip you've got it Al. Get in touch with your closest / favourite car club and you'll soon find ways in.

http://motorsport.org.nz/Links/links.htm

Have a look through there, most car clubs have a link in there.

Where abouts are you located? Christchurch? The club down there is pretty big and seems to run a good number of events. Most clubs (as said) will run anything from grasskhana, autocross to sealed sprints and race days at tracks around the country. Here in Palmy we run autocrosses hillclimbs and gravel sprints, open days on track, sprint days, club race events and national race events - as well as affiliate clubs that run a lot of grass roots clubsport events. Most regions will have a similar setup.

A big part of being a car club these days is being accessible to anyone, so if you want to get into it get in touch with the local club and you should find people that are willing to help you into the sport.

Got dipstick?

4age's take about 3.8L of oil. Not sure how much a C160 trans takes.

I was taking the piss. I swear it looked slammed-er in person... and that was before you lowered the back.

Photoshoot with the FA50 on the it?

a 4age would be sweet. They're perkier and rev much better then anything old(er).

It depends what "sort" of car you want to end up with. I think a 4age would push them along alright, apparently only weigh 925kg in standard trim.

Hurry up and slam it already .

Looks good.

Just put a 3SGTE into it......

See you Thursday! Is Ogre around to get drunk before we get there?

Yeah I understand that. It's the same sorta deal though, just instead of having spring etc there is nothing. Then you fir the alloy sleeve on top and add a bush fitting so it bolts in.

What were the ones worth in the UK that you want?

Like $150NZD each.

Thats really cheap. Just do that, sounds like they'll be able to be shortened.

Sounds like Spence, Sam and D need to buy a car at swapmeet .

Just throw some vasaline on the points probably still corrode with cover on / those covers are very hard to find. olso mk2 covers fit

Vaseline is pretty much semi liquid duct tape/cable ties

ie: fixes all

Whats using grease like in comparison?

Soft seal too expensive??

Round 1 of D2 broke 3 sets of D2's .

Yeah I understand that. It's the same sorta deal though, just instead of having spring etc there is nothing. Then you fir the alloy sleeve on top and add a bush fitting so it bolts in.

What were the ones worth in the UK that you want?

Is your charge light turning on before you start the car? It should come on when the key is set to "on" and go out when the engine is running. If the bulbs blown then the exciter circuit wont be complete and the alt wont turn on.

Had a giggle before when searching for info on BHG's... Second result on google.

Heh, BC make heaps of components for Greddy etc apparently. Haven't seen a BC break yet but D2's used to explode all the time.

Can sorta see it here, theres an alloy sleeve threaded over the standard thread with a locknut. The old spax had the sleeves still on them but I cant find for an out of car pic.

So you could get a shock that was too short and make it the length you need.

Same as what sheepers has done to the back of his car.

You could do it with any off the shelf koni in etc in the back Zeb. Can get shorter ones then needed and add length to the arm by bolting on a spacer type deal.

Tui Plz - KK = wuss.

BTW, I won't be drinking much cause of race meet etc....

my brakes arent spongy and i have starion fronts with s14 rears and still running off only the 1200cc ex lancer m/c

are your pads not new all round?

i will say tho after having been to a track day recently and smashed the shit out of the pads they are feeling different for sure, i.e much more travel in the pedal

Your fluid will have boiled or taken on air at the trackday. Always bleed them again after hitting the track.

Sweet door handles.

Looks good, keen to see some decent pics when it's all back together.

go and see Chris at the shock shop on Great North road in Grey lynn.

he will more than likely be able to get what your after and if not he can definitely shorten them for you.

some shocks (like my Koni's) require being fully compressed to adjust them, not posable once they have been shortened.

sheepers.

Pretty sure only the older koni's are like that. Mine are the same but were made in 2000 or so. Newer ones should be know adjustable.

Why do you need to shorten them Zep? Would it be a better idea to change your mounting point?