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Truenotch

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Posts posted by Truenotch

  1. fuck measure the spline size on your rear wheel/ count the splines.

    cant find a new honda wheel. Fafidy may fit but some honda guru in hamilton reckons there are two different types of fa50 spline and he wasnt sure if either would fit the honda.

    its all up to you/is there anybody in auckland with an fa50 or similar?

    I've got a spare FA50 spindle at home, want me to measure it for you? There are two different ones. A large spline and a small spline, and both are completely different. I have a spare big one at home, want me to measure for you?

  2. Found some more interesting info and think this is a fitting place to put it:

    Honda guys talking about soundwaves etc:

    http://www.team-integra.net/sections/ar ... icleID=466

    I haven't looked at it in depth yet but the first bit that I read (bottom of the first page) is bullshit

    Notice that with invididual throttle bodies (ITB's) you lose this resonance effect because the reflected wave escapes out into the engine bay (or the atmosphere) and is not stored and returned by a plenum/acoustic chamber. ITB's do NOT use ram theory to get that extra kick at peak torque because they usually in race form do not have a plenum. In some street ITB's, a plenum is attached for practical reasons (sound deadening and filtering). They rely on very very large amounts of passive cylinder filling based on the piston's effects and use tuned air horn height and tapered diameter (with an S-shaped velocity stack opening) to get the N/A pressure boost effect

    The pulse doesn't 'bounce' off the plenum it does so off the general mass of dense air at the opening to the trumpet.

    Posted that mostly for the sweet pic of soundwaves bouncing into a OHV engine. Didn't actually read what they were saying about the different pleniums.

    The other link is cool though.

  3. So I decided that I wouldn't put up a thread for this until I got a speeding ticket on it ..... BUT .... scooters draw zero police attention so I gave up.

    It's a 1982 FA50 in 2 stroke blue

    Mods:

    De-mirrored left handlebar,

    "Re-jetted" throttle needle,

    Custom 1-3/4" Muffler (Car muff converted into makeshift spannie chamber),

    Reamed exhaust port,

    Matched exh manifold,

    2 speed auto from FS50 (but using FA50 big wheels, not FS small wheels).

    Originally got this for free from a friends dad. It was in a bit of a sorry state - not running and was quite filthy. He'd taken good care of it over the years, though, and was gutted that he couldn't find the fault. Took it home and got to work. My old man happened to take a break from work at around the same time and spent ages getting it going, straightening wheels and cleaning things up. Had to replace the wiring strap using parts from my old scootercross FA50. Did all that, add fuel and oil - Brrriiiiingg**** It lived.

    Since then I've changed the trans to the one from the FS, which is a 2 stage auto deal. The FS originally had a tiny wheel on the back, so I figured add big wheel and gain KPH... Worked well. Also sanded down the throttle needle that goes through the jet for more gas at high throttle. Did the muffler at the same time and it made a huge difference, it loves the fuel and when you throw the enrichener/ choke on it un locks 5kph or so.

    At first it would do 70K everywhere! No problems... but since then it's run out of 2 stroke once and is probably a bit coked up so chuggs along at around 65 on the flat with no wind... pretty happy with that since it did 45 originally. The clock only goes up to 60 and the needle stops near the bottom of the gauge... Where it stops = at least 70k.

    P1014050.jpg

    P1014049.jpg

    Smiles per mile are at least 1:1 ratio :P .

    • Like 1
  4. OK so after a lot of searching I finally found an Auto trans that matched. $50 - mint. Funny thing is it came from a car that I got offered for $200 which had a few trick bits like wheel spacers and extractors. Should have bought it really but who cares, got the trans from it for cheap.

    Picked box up on Wednesday afternoon and it was in and working by lunchtime on Thursday. Much better than old box, this one doesn't try to kill you when it changes gears!

    Big ChurChur to KY for sending me the spare AFM he had lying around. Looks like it's solved most of the problems! I think a new set of plugs and leads and it'll run like a dream! Lubs.

    Also chopped 2 coils out of the rear springs and sorted a deal with Simon for his mesh. Looks better but needs 195/55's all round (has 50's on the front but they're too lowpro IMO. Will take some meat out of the front on sunday to get it sitting more even, but going to try and keep it captive till after the next for in Sept.

    P1014005.jpg

    P1014009.jpg

    //oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=18883

  5. Plasma is awesome :P .

    Reke - you could use it for everything but it's sometimes hard to start a tig torch when you're in an awkward position, where as mig is more point and shoot.

    You'll find most Tig/arc/plasma combo machines are targeted at consumers and light trade users and the big machines are specialised to be Tig only because that's all the tradesman wants - they don't want the bells/whistles.

    And yeah, argon for alloy and steel when using tig.

  6. How positive is the outer? I doubt you'll be able to get actual longchamp ones but there are a few companies that spin up new alloy outer bands. It costs about $200 per band depending on where you go (have hear of some places doing outer bands for $120ish ea) which all adds up when you factor in the cost of the alloys.

    What width and offset are the ones you're looking at? If you get a band that's 1" wider than the standard outer it will make the offset more negative by 25mm and you'll have a wire rim. So a 7' with +25 offset will become an 8 with 0 offset.

    Edit, sorry. What jase said. if you widen by an inch offset will be 1/2' more negative.

  7. Tig is a peaceful way to weld, it's like gas welding except with voltage. It's relaxed and tranquil compared to Arc and Mig.

    Mig is good for panel work cause it's fast and easy to do. You also put a lot less power straight into the metal so get less bowing of panels with Mig normally. Mig is noisey and sparkly as well - way more disco.

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