Truenotch

+ another pic with new wheels.

Sportmax's would look pretty similar to the Simmons (minus the centre) I think. My wheels are 15x8 ~0 offset.

16's look like they fill arches pretty well, I think 15x8+ with a decent tyre on would look fine though.... So long as you slam it.

16's:

Not sure, but WOW:

IMO to fill the arches the most important thing is offset and slam.

I saw an amazing thing today...

A NISMO head from an LZ series nissan engine. Basically an L16 but with an alloy DOHC head designed for competition only. The intake ports are beautiful, they head down on a steep angle and barely curve before the valve face. The valve angle in these is really steep and the exhaust ports are fairly small. It pretty much looks like an alloy bathtub that holds cams!

Found some pics of them:

http://www.datrats.com.au/lz-T.JPG

http://www.datrats.com.au/lz_twin_cams.htm

Used in Formula Pacific/atlantic, Group 4,5 and C.

They are in the Group C skyline silhouette in LZ20R form:

http://www.banpei.net/category/tags/nissan-silvia-turbo

I thought the steep port angle was pretty cool, and was a sweet thing to have a look over.

I think they'd suit an escort, so long as they're wide enough for your bubbles .

16's are pretty dick and poos for tyres though... You could have a chance at getting second hand RA1 semi slicks from series 6 rx7 racers but apart from that you have to search through new tyres.

15's might be big enough for it? You'd have access to more sizes then.

4th page dig up... must be time for an update. Better get some pics ...

Ahh, thats better.

Anyway there are a few things to update since last time... I bought more wheels, they're Simmons.

Have had quite a few little issues lately.

First, I went out testing after getting my brakes skimmed and did 3-4 runs. The car felt pretty sluggish then mid corner theres a big BANG and the steering gets really heavy... "Wonder if that was a flat tyre"... Turns out my LF wheel bearing had lunched itself and melted the end of my stub axle!!! Result: Get another strut to re-make coilover.

Then when I had the strut out something didn't seem quite right... That shock from that same corner was bent! I re-assembled and decided that there was little choice (as there was an event the next weekend). So I did the sprint and was trying out some softer springs, which made the bent shock a lot easier to notice. It turns in OK, then part way though the corner it starts to shunt, the inside rear wheel picks up, back slides round and the car turns the corner. Using the chassis as suspension = less than ideal. There was 40mm of travel in the shock with no load on it, so minus droop (20mmish) and there was only 20mm of travel in my left front corner! Anything should be better than that. It explains why one of the previous owners told me they could never get it to turn in propperly... and also why it had 650lb springs in the front. It probably had a bent shock all along.

Then later that day I took off from the line, slammed into second gear and the diff exploded! I pulled onto the infield and realized that it was seized up in the rear... So it sat there for the rest of the day. It was easy enough to get on the trailer by pulling out the axles and pushing it (floating axles rule!). Turns out the crown wheel and pinion lunched themselves. Dropped the oil and took handfulls of shit out of the housing.... Which meant dropping the whole housing for a thorough clean.

Bought a 4wd liteace van for it's front diff and used the CW&P to re-build my diff. So have gone back to 4.77 ratio... but bought another van diff with 4.556 just in case.

Solved the shocks problem for now by borrowing some Koni's from Julian at Motorsport Manawatu. Only issue is they take up to 400lb springs so I've borrowed some softer springs to work with them as well. Hopefully we'll see better times from this setup... Having weight shift for braking and turning has to be a good thing! I'm also buying some 2nd hand slicks so will hopefully get a chance to try those in the weekend as well.

First meeting of the United Travel Race Series this weekend and the car is almost ready! Lets hope nothing goes wrong at the test day on Saturday...

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=14421

Oh..... And my wallet is nearly empty.

"Check and set base ignition timing - note almost completely impossible to set timing due to pulley and markings"

I've seen a few rally guys overcome this issue. You take the crank pulley and replicate the marks 180' away from the originals, then make some setup to have a timing point at the bottom. So you set base ign timing by taking off the RR wheel and flashing up there.

Hey I have a pairs of front struts from one of these with cutties in them, the springs aren't captive but they never came out. For $50 you can come the complete struts.

You're not supposed to post in this thread, but keen. Where are you?

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=18883

.... Auto trans just blew up.... Gutted.

Have found another one for $50 but have to go remove it myself. Thought it would be harder to find one than that!

I know where that's from, I'd read that 'modifying the 3S' guide with a grain of salt tbh.

Yeah I agree with you there, posted it as a discussion point more than anything.

Exhaust:

The real value in extractor type exhaust manifolds only comes when camshafts & valve springs are changed so that peak torque occurs at higher revs.

A simple design formula that appears to work OK is:- Primary pipe length in inches =((850 x ED)/rpm)-3. Where RPM is the “tuning” revs, typically being the max torque engine revs & ED is (180 + exhaust cam opening point BBDC).

On a fast road engine with a peak torque point of say 3500rpm, this works out to be 134cm (53”), whilst for a race only engine at 5500rpm, it is 91cm (36”)

We have always found that 4:1 systems work best. The 4:1 device is commonly called a merge collector & these can be purchased pre-made. It impossible to make a 4:1 on a road going MR2 with such long pipes, so you need to compromise with a 4:2:1 system, & get the total of the primary plus secondary pipes to be this length. ncreased size “cat back” exhaust systems continue to be widely used however the Catalytic convertor proves to be a major restriction.

Others have shown that the total pressure drop in the system needs to be no more than about 14kpa (2 psi). To achieve this on our racer we had to remove the cat entirely, use a 80mm (3.25”) main pipe & a straight thru (but still efficient) muffler.

Interesting ideas there, and brings back-pressure into play.

Those toda ones look nice! $1700 + shipping.....

My pipes are quite beefy, they're a big long 4-2-1. The primaries extend into the tunnel, then collect into 2 secondaries that are about 500mm long before being collected into 3" and finally down to 2.5". I'm getting keen to go back to a 3" exhaust just as an an experiment.

They would need a bit of work to be ideal, but are good enough for now (and will stay for quite a while).

Ill be going 2.5" - 3" on my beams hopefully out the front guard

Don't think thats legal for MSNZ mang, has to be at least at the back door in a 4 door I think.

My car had a 3" system on it originally, and when my muffler blew I stepped down to 2.5". The dyno doesn't say that I've gained any power, and cant tell if theres a difference in torque because I had a different diff ratio when testing the 2.5". I've gone back to the old diff ratio now so will tell you what the result is next time I get on the dyno (hopefully this week).

Might go back to 3" to test curiousity.

Hillclimb vectras:

http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/15554.jpg

Just find a Trueno/levin guard that has dents up top, buy it for cheap and lop the bottom off it. Transpose onto the bottom of your guard and away you go... Mint.

Did that on mine last year.

FA50's are the shit! I have 2... ones a scootercross/ratrod one and the other is daily. Same as yours but without the shin protectors... So jealous of those guards.

Whats your top speed???? I've been fettling and manage 70k on the flat .

Will get pics soon for a laugh.

Photo would be sweet man . I know the one on there is a VL because it's all black, but the R31 ones have a grey/alloy bit where the part numbers are.

I really like the R31 wagons (just about all skylines actually), which makes me laugh because I used to absolutely despise them.

And those rims look approximately 1 kazillion times better painted.

Looking forward to seeing it sacked out 'in the weeds.'

I actually started to like them a lot more after seeing your one for sale earlier in the year... It seemed to make so much sense as a cruiser and a tow car. Pity mine doesn't have a extras like yours! I'd love central locking and cruise control!

Oh, I have a little stack of random crap from my old one, an AFM and airbox, maybe two. If you want them just holla, I'll throw 'em in a box and send them your way.

Oh yeah? What sort of AFM? One of the oddball ones with the "grey top"?.

Tight wheels, look super choice in black. What an awesome tow vehicle/parts hauler

Cheers man.

oh snap etc^

Mean 31, was semi keen do go all out on a wagon about a year or so back. do what a mate back home did, take out one rear spring, chop it half and put one half in each side.

true story

......Thats fucken awesome.....

did u get that weird stutter/splutter sorted?

Not yet, haven't had a chance to look at it properly yet... Might have a go at it tomorrow starting with plugs, leads, possible vacuum leaks and a quick look at electrics. Then sort the header leak, clean alternator up, flush coolant, change oil, re-seal rocker cover, clean it, do a skid.

You know what I think would make the wheel look a little sweeter. See that 3mm little indent that runs along the spokes. If you painted that red, paint the lip black as well and then run a 3mm red pinstripe around it too. Little details. Maybe that's just me though.

Haha that sounds like way too much effort .

Im keen, could have a feed in town somewhere?

Others?

Choice.

You should get a Volvo spoiler for it and slam it but with stiff springs so you can still use it to tow shit.

Haha volvo spoiler would be sweet . Spring stiffness is the one thing holding the slamming process back... The ones in there are pretty hard so seem to be a good towing spring.

Fuck it, I'll just slam the front and then it'll only sit level when the racecar is on the back .

I never actually looked at the original photos til now, I prefer the 5 spoke things to the celica/supra rims

It that just because the car is slammed in that pic? They look way worse in person... FWD offset and 185/60/14 Enduro's... Pretty much using the celica/supras to get away from those tyres.

Got clearance? ...

These sit much more flush (... although I'm using 20mm spacers to convert the thread pitch).

Painted one today and I think it makes them look better / hides the yuckness.

Painted a rim to see if it would make me like them more... I think it did:

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=18882&p=429664#wrapheader

Def needs more slam.