Truenotch

Sweet! Bring it to Manfeild please.

Pipercross come from Cardwells I'm pretty sure. They're supposedly the best filter for ITB and carb setups and a lot of people seem to do well with them.

Be prepared to pay a lot though... Something like $200 for the filter element and $100 for a blank backing plate (no holes).

The wheels will stick out at least 30mm more than these:

I reckon if the doors were widened it would look fine .

Time to place an order for 225/45/14 Toyo T1R's - they are going to be the only ones that will be close to working...

Ha! ... I though MX5's were handling cars?

If the 3" backspace is to the bead, it means you will have 7" of rim past the hub face, plus 1/2" of bead on top of that...

'Shits never going to work... front wheels will hit the inner guards in both directions....

Got angle grinder? Cause you may have to chop out the footwells .

Definitely looks like an old sports sedan... I'll forward the shots on to some old car club boys and see if they recognise it.

Could be keen also.

It'll look like shit on those steels unless you slam it. It's likely it'll handle like shit as well.

365HP at the wheels....

Place bets now!

turns out they were too soft...

At the start of this year one of the front tyres completely delaminated due to heat stress. Turns out 5 laps is a bit too much for soft compound D01Js, and combined with summer heat and track temps they end up melting after a while

That doesn't look like the tyres fault man... I would say you have definite alignment issues and the soft compound accentuated your issues. For macpherson strut type suspension you want at least 2' negative camber (insert die grinder here) and probably a couple of mm of toe out. From the pics is appears you had the opposite going on? Even soft semis should last 5 laps + around Taupo...

Jase came around with the intake manifold:

And it goes!!! Started first pop, idles a bit rough.

Time for exhaust pipes. Home stretch...

I think I will shorten a F series.

Should be able to use the rear diff from a corona Wagon... they come in F series.

Perhaps a car that fits into a certain class (SS2000, Classics, Pre65 etc.) has appeal as you can step up and race more formally once your budget allows - or perhaps that isn't important and one would just like a scary car to fang twice a year.

There's a lot more than just summer racing going on though... And if you were building a 5k car, I doubt summer events would be affordable .

Winter "allcomers" classes are choice.

Oh yeah! Forgot about the other project....

AE85 Rolling Shell

+ T series disc rear end, locker, 4.77 ratio

+ T50

+ 4AGE

+ Some body work

+ Suspension from parts cars

AW11 MR2 - $1000-$1500

Set of decent coilovers - $1500

ST185 twin pot front brakes + facelift discs & new bendix ultimate pads - $300

Blacktop 4age - $1000

LSD - ~$500

If you get a cheap enough adub there will be money left over for rust work .

Or this + cage

Where's Mic Doohan when you need him???

I think remember Wayne saying that an SC12 is actually a more efficient supercharger than an SC14, and his theory was that you could bolt one to almost anything and gain power... Even something like a 1UZ.... But don't quote that.

Try checking the fault codes by bridging the T and E1 terminals in the diagnostic box - this will be either a black box with a cap over it or a yellow plug that appears to do nothing.

Info on how to do this is here: http://www.club4ag.com/faq_and_tech_pag ... 0Codes.htm

Have you checked for spark? Pull a plug out and test it in each of the leads to see what it does (Make sure it's touching the motor for an earth while cranking).

Also make sure the hose from the MAP to the manifold isn't cracked or leaking... It pays to check all vacuum lines for leaks.

If you try to add throttle with the TPS disconnected it won't be able to sense the position of the butterfly and will just die.

So with the TPS connected it will only idle for 10secs, and with it disconnected it's idling fine? If so, get a multimeter and check the sensor.

www.club4ag.com - go to the technical reference section for info. Make sure you look at JDM specs not USDM ones.

Yowzer - 4AGE 16v's are all MAP in NZ, the only ones with AFM are bigport GZE's.

Giz a hoon!

Spotted a 2104 wags the other day... Don't think it was for sale, but you never know.

Quality of the tint film is the key, I have chatted to a couple of tinting pro's and they both said that repco-supercrap tilnt film is just junk and the end result will reflect this.

I have done my own and found getting nice edges to be the most difficult part.

Where do you purchase quality film then?

I'm going to do both my cars.

It's actually really good.

Get it from Retter mang - he works at Auto interiors/Tint magic.

WHAT!!!??? A pinto with no oil leaks?

Fuck.

Mint! Time for us to live in fear?

Really keen to see how it goes after a retune...

Hah, keen. Giz a text at 5 or so to make sure I remember .