Truenotch

http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=9695

i did a set for the gem made superlights,

14" centres into 16x9 bands

Are you able to do a bit of a writeup on how you did them? I reckon it would be handy to have in the tech reference.

The centres sit real tight if they haven't been out for a long time. Best tactic I've found is a boiled jug and an old gumboot - just bash away.

I'm not sure about which way it was supposed to run... But the downhill hairpin = win.

Running it as a "hillclimb" makes it easy to organise under permit. If it was run as sprints they would probably have to run the track in accordance with FIA regs, but this way anything goes. We do the same thing at Manfeild sometimes and label them as "bent sprints" to run multi formats.

Has the coolent inlet and oultet locations on the engine been modified from standard. (ie the rear return plumbed of the front?) I dono iv just heard debatable advice that it can do naughty things to 4 if this is done to FWD - RWD engines.

The cooling is set up the same as the old gen3 FWD engine.

aren't links quite sensitive to having a lush power supply? possible it was the link that spazzed and leaned out?

They won't run with less than a certain amount of voltage, but that should kill the spark as well? I've had the charge light wire die before and the car ran sweet until you gave it some load - then it would struggle, splutter and stop. Having not had that happen at high RPM or load before, I'm not too sure what the effect could be... It makes sense provided the fuel pump stopped before the ecu eh?

It's broken 3 wires off the alternator and my battery no longer stores any charge (hadn't got round to buying a new one), so a sudden loss of voltage could have slowed the fuel pump but continued sparking for a short while after = expensive bbq...

Not enough coolant to the back of the engine?

It's possible.

The gauge was reading normal (sender is at the back of the head) and it didn't boil or anything. I would have expected the head gasket to blow before it got hot enough to melt one piston though...

There are a couple of things that I've noticed are wrong since pulling it apart:

- The radiator cap wasn't holding pressure - could have lead to cooling issues.

- The alternator wiring had caught something and snapped off the charge/exciter circuit and the main positive power terminal - which may have shorted to the body and spazzed the injectors for a second.

Apart from that it seems pretty kosher.

I don't think so. We balanced the quads on the night of the dyno runs and they are all well matched to the naked eye.

Something weird has gone on.... and we're trying to figure out what it was before the next engine goes in....

... good question...

KK, it's not swapmeat without you...

Always keen for chats about this stuff... We could rally a small posse for Sat afternoon?

Can give GCs a ride back to the wells on the sunday.

im seriously thinking about leaving the 910 in welly due to trying to save money so this could be an idea

also being passenger when hungover is far better then driving .

Burnouts?

They may have been monitoring the knock with a set of headphones.

That would be a good plan sparks...

The engine detonated and died at the round 2 test day after about 9 laps it let go in a big way. After heading around Toyota into the sweeper and hooking 4th gear with a buried foot. *DOOF* - the cabin filled with smoke. I slammed it in neutral and turned it off as soon as possible. A quick look under the hood showed that it had breathed a lot of oil onto the extractors.

It looks like #4 cylinder has leaned out badly and detonated. The most likely reason for this would be a stuck injector - and it's possible since the engine was sitting around for a couple of years before being used. The damage is a melted piston and a dead bore - I think it'll need to be re-sleeved as the damage is quite deep.

Pics:

The bonus is that the head is OK (apart from having piston particles stuck to it)... So this might be the beginning of a race engine build... We'll see.

Curry in a roll = best marketing ever. Curry, rice, veg wrapped in Naan - what more do you need?

^^ Yip that's the one.

And to further the cage modifications question - if you modify the cage you need to get a "homologation extension" which costs about $50 as far as I remember.

We were scheming about putting together a BBQ or Pies at Johns place for Saturday night - requirements would either be a $$$ or alcohol donation. John has Pie warmers - may as well make use of them.

You could pitch a tent on his rear lawn but there's a risk of getting shit on your pole.

Would probably be all good though.

IS the VDO spendy? I'm looking for a small pump to take care of my diff cooling needs.

That spring looks to be about 150mm long?

Standard coil over springs come in 65id at 200mm long... So how about getting a set of second hand coilover springs, cutting them in half and then throwing them on a spring dyno to work out the rate? For the rear of a FWD you could start with a 350lb spring or similar and chop it down for a harder rear end, or get a hard set and compress them. There are basic calculations you can do to work out the rough measurement of the rates too.

Ask UJ?

They'll be a cunt to find... If they're 1/2" x 20 it shouldn't be too bad though.

will you get that under the guard. Will be a 7/7.5 -25 to 30 offset.

^^ This

They sat very flush on an S1 RX7, so will stick out on anything if you add spacers.... I don't understand why he didn't recon and roll them... His car has typical gay 17x7's with shit offset and these were his "skid rims", but when they were on it made the rear of his car have awesome stance.

The NZ car community sucks at Japan.

Spotted these today at mainfreight.... Still jealous even though they're 4x110.....

Mint score.

Did they come from Palmy?