Truenotch

K.

Any accords at Wilf's ?

Magnesium steels?

I reckon they're yuck. Might be ok with lots of emery tape and some paint... and less dinnerplate around the edge.

I'll have your tow wagon. Giz.

K.

Clutch LSD

Open

Plate/mechanical/clutch are all the same thing.

Torsen/helical/ATB are all the same too. You can get Quaife ATB's brand new in NZ - they're expensive but available.

http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_lsd_mechanical.html like this then

Only one not discontinued apparently, is that the torsen one?

"Mechanical" = plate type. The outer plates you can see are the clutch plates that grab and release.

lol.

If they don't wear, then why do nissan owners need to slam extra shims to re-tighten old VLSDs?

Differential motion forces the interleaved discs to move through the fluid against each other. In some viscous couplings when speed is maintained the fluid will accumulate heat due to friction. This heat will cause the fluid to expand, and expand the coupler causing the discs to be pulled together resulting in a non-viscous plate to plate friction and a dramatic drop in speed difference.

any sustained load which overheats the silicone results in sudden permanent loss of the differential effect.[4] They do have the virtue of failing gracefully, reverting to semi-open differential behaviour. Typically a visco-differential that has covered 60,000 miles (97,000 km) or more will be functioning largely as an open differentia

Sounds gay.

You won't find an VLSD for C series anyway, so stop these points are pointless .

Torsion does have wearing parts.

Viscous doesn't... That's why I bought one cos I plan on not treating it well haha.

What are you talking about? Torsen is made up of helical gears that only wear out if they break/run out of oil, viscous has shims that wear out over time.

Clutch type will be best for most applications, but TORSEN doesn't have wearing parts so will last longer if treated well.

The only issue with torsen is that they let go in low speed/static/wheel lift situations, but those shouldn't be an issue in an AW. Scour trademe for c series diffs everyday.

That duck shit is the duck's nuts.

Well done.

Go lay some Z's?

felt like mad mike.

Yup, best upgrade I've made to the AW11 ever.

Go to a compressor place or powertool repair centre next time? I sell those switches at work and have them in stock all the time, as well as the filters.

Make sure you switch the compressor off from the switch on top (red button) NOT just the wall switch. This is what would have killed the pressure switch to start with.

Also look into a torsen LSD, they were factory in some later C boxes?

Torsen C56 from a superstrut AE111.

BTW - the going rate for an open diff C52 is $60ish, going rate for a Torsen C56 is $500+.

Fuck yeah.

So if both those fuck out you let go?

joe flange goat?

The very same.

What motor should I put on my FS50?

Sweet!

Blown a rear axle yet? I've got a friend considering a live axle conversion to combat CV explosions.

Joes facebook.

... I hope that man completed a circuit with a cat on his lap?

Agreed. TRD plate types are the best and you can find parts to rebuild them.

The easiest option is to find an LSD c52 and put it in or a Torsen C56 from a superstrut AE111.

Shit.... There are bound to be some plastic ones around. Was trying to convince a friend to use his injection / rotary moulding access to make a whole pile of them. Will see where that goes.

MORE BURNOUTS.