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Truenotch

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Posts posted by Truenotch

  1. Looks the same as my cage builders bender. He wont lend it but would be able to do your cage in a couple of days . How much are you paying for the one in the scort?

    Get your guy to ring ProParts in Palmy, they might have a former in stock if you're lucky.

    It's also very unlikely that you'll have homologation back before the 25th of June. They've been taking a couple of months for normal ones and a month or so for "rush" homologations... So you could be best to roll without for June?

  2. You need a hex bit socket of the right size. They work best when accompanied by a rattle gun/impact driver to shock the nut off.

    648663-7-pc-3-8-dr-metric-hex-bit-socket-set.jpg

    If you can, use a small power bar place the hex bit into the hole then get a socket or spanner onto the nut that lives on the inside of the wheel. Undoing the nut is easier than cranking on the allen head and you are less likely to round it off. If you can use a small rattle gun on the nut it makes life a lot easier (cordless impact drivers or small impact wrenches work).

    Give it a go with a hex bit and a socket on the back and if that doesn't work, take it to elite/an engineer.

  3. + 1 for getting good teflon ones first time.

    The ones in my car have been raced on for over 10 years (and haven't had an easy life) and I'm yet to notice any play in the joints... They're standing up better than the body has!!!

    You can end up spending a few hundred to get the right ones though.

  4. 5 degrees is a lot of camber for any car. I run 3.5 to 3.75' on my AE86 race car and wouldn't want to run anywhere near that on a road car.

    The adjustable camber tops should get you to about 3', which should be enough.

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