Truenotch

You evolved with an Escort at Manfeild?

That gearbox is gold! Also it looks like 2nd has been punched in the teeth.

I run class A on my AW for cheapness but it won't stand up in a court of law... Unless you can get someone to put WOF's on it and fly under the radar.

If you're going to re-do the mount then it's a good idea to go for a body mounted watts with rod brackets at each end of the diff. Less unsprung weight + roll centre that is constant with the body makes things easier to work out.

They're not that complicated so it might be best to start again.

I've got T3 offset RCA's in my car at the moment and am happy with them + they're easy to deal with. Someone at OS nats mentioned that they wouldn't pay for T3 steering arms again though.

I think that sigma is the right model... Least you can do is try them (if they're cheap enough).

That's a tricky one! You'd assume it would be press fit in that situation... So hopefully it will pop out with a small bit of heat and the correct puller. If it was me then a slide hammer would come out with a custom made piece on the end to pop it out.

You want longer LCA's to pump out the track without changing scrub too much... So if it will work then AE86 struts, Sigma LCA's and PS steering arms should keep your geometry fairly decent.

Had a look at the axles today, early T series AE86/TE71 have the same spline as TT132/141.

AJPS sell a lot of parts in NZ. He used to post up new products etc on garagedori. Flick an email through - from what I've heard they are easy to deal with.

Could be the basis for a new trophy that can circulate OS forevermore?

I'm pretty sure they will be a small axle T series. Got a TT132 and TE71 axle in the shed so will compare for you tomorrow.

Pic something like this?

AE86 rear suspension should work as well. So buy a complete set of BC's or similar and modify the fronts so suit TT141.

And yeah, rear arm spacings are all different - the TT diff is longer by a reasonable amount and the 4 link mounts are a similar difference. At least there are LSD options though.

Fucken love getting smashed in hamilton.

yea i got 225/45/15 r888 from tonys tyres for 270each.

they sick on the road. stones sticking is annoying tho, throws them at ya guards/face

They can only tell so much from pictures - at the end of the day the call is made by the scrutineer who is able to look at it in person. A lot of the cages should be failed at their first event, but I don't think some scrutineers go hard enough on new cars.

Don't use 44mm for everything because its over double the price and takes up headroom if you use it for the front stays.

Notching is a cunt and getting the radius right is really tricky too - especially for front legs that need to bend on 2 angles to follow the pillar. Make sure you only put 2 bends in the front stays even if it creates a bit of a gap to the A-pillar.

Then do skids.

Welding them is the hardest part. You can have done countless hours on the bench, but it gets hard when the time comes to do a smooth weld while you're dangling upside down in the footwell. Also need to make sure you have the right tube for the main hoop and have to use a proper cage bender.

What type of carb is it and does it have an adjustable needle? Have a look at that and see if it can be moved down.

Good shit man. If you have any questions about the easiest way to do cages + get homologation just post up. A few users have been looking into them recently.

Note: 5.22

You've gotta be quick to see it.

Just clicked, why is this in tech?

Might shift it.

Sooo keen but soooo far

Do it. Dub another Rumbler up on the back of your C90.

Supposedly before June, but I'm not holding my breath.

RE11's are awesome tyres, hope they work out for you.

For future ref or if you ever want semi slicks, nitto are coming into NZ soon and they do a 225/45/15 for hopefully under $200 per tyre. Not great for road use though:

+1

holy fuckin jesus yes

This means JasonK wants your mesh visor.

Sorry about the confusing language, they're still living the the post-glow of oldschool nationals and will remember to be clearer about things like this in the future, eh guys?

Nice work! It looks like you've put a lot of thought and effort into this - I'm impressed.

EWP is probably not a bad idea and running no thermostat is good if the pump will take over the temp + restriction duties. I run no thermostat with a restriction washer in my car and it makes it much easier to bleed the system (open bleeder, jam hose in radiator, build up pressure, SQUIRT).