drftnmaz

yip thats me

if your not in a rush i do cages in between other work and im in south auckland, never done less than a 6 point tho, as adding the front stays on later and still guaranteeing 360 degree welds is often hard to do nicely without dropping cage down

An estima diff will need shortening a fair bit, there close to 1500mm drum to drum

the ones i saw at p-a-p bout a month ago were all 1450, factory ke70 is 1400, so 25mm a side, which is nothing really and will make skinny wheels still look decent... gay stud pattern but kurt shouldn't have a problem fixing that, ta22 is ~1355 so shorter than ke70

try atom fasteners (09) 272 8664 35 Neilpark Drive, East Tamaki

its where i get all my 12.9 grade metric fine stuff, i'd imagine they'd send to you with a credit card... prices are usually reasonable aswell

i'd be tempted to wash a little bit of petrol around in there, then do the exhaust pipe trick for 5mins to be safe... i've never tried a diesel tank tho

i've done a few and even repairs on race cars in rushed conditions and always just use the exhaust trick, i was pretty dubious of it at first but it works awesome, hardest bit about tanks is cleaning the swarf/crap etc out at the end

custom wound coils are ~$250 for a pair

i have a mate with a huge list of all there rack-ends and lengths, when i see him later this week i will inquire if he has listings of balljoint tapers... tbh i doubt it as there are so many different ones and most are non-standard (tooling wise to ream out new arms)

i've made tooling to do nissan tapers (i make steering arms from steel) so i could ream your arms out to suit a nissan outters to keep things more standard if that helps? (they use a m14x15 thread) i will measure tapers if you want to see if this is a option

you need to shorten the strut tubes so they keep the ae92 inserts tight and ALSO gain the extra 40mm of travel, then goto somewhere like snell springs and get some firmer springs made to suit the height you want, put it all together and you can even be legal at a decent height, and drive nice!

factory spring rate is ~85pd, which is fuck all, the ke70 i did for a customer last week i made 250pd springs to suit (also fitted a shock with superior valving to control such a high rate in a light car)

was digging through some photos and found a couple of other tanks i've done for people, one was a injected twin-turbo HQ..

yea mod up your tank, i don't run a surge tank in my d1 car, just tank baffles (quite a few of them) just find a factory tank and cut it up, copy design etc

heres one i did for a customer not long ago, cut up a skyline r32? tank, notice the internal bowl added from the other tank and then flange added for bolt-in ease

yea in suck-through you don't need to do anything to the carb, just jetting to provide more fuel to suit better afr's

oh and your not meant to put carb or inlet pipe lower than the intake, due to fuel pooling in the pipe, so your intake run should always run downwards, but have seen a few that don't and still seem to survive

i've done a few carb turbo, draw-through and suck-through, each has it own problems and good points...

as said above timing is the biggest issue, limiting the mech advance can work, changing springs and weights to suit can also work, easiest is locking it and finding a almost happy medium, on K series engines i would lock it around 18degrees, but alot of other factors/combos came into play, locking it ensured you had power when you backed off the gas and got back on it (ie skids) can also jimmy a adv/retard solenoid onto the dissy if your keen enough, locked dissy 4k's would get me 6-9months of giggles before spinning bearings etc

on suck-through you need the right type of turbo, it has to have a carbon seal or the fuel will kill the rubber seal quick smart cause the vacuum is too high having the throttle across the turbine... there are ways to lessen the effect, but just get a turbo with carbon seals in the first place

SU's are my pick for easy tuning on suck-though, anything blow-through requires a power-valve and boost enrichment to compensate for what the carb can't tell, also need to pressurize the float to keep everything equalized, so fuel pressure also needs to be rising rate...

suck-though you can still keep the factory mech fuel pump etc

yea i don't run water through mine either, optional extra etc... (only BB turbos really need water)

yea i went through it a little while ago, had a customer with ae86 everything and struts were a abortion so i remade using some late ke70's struts i had as spares.. i may have some late model hubs kicking around if you wanted to adapt some other brakes?

awesome work man

this is prob of no help but late ke70 (non vented) hubs, backing plates, brakes etc fit onto 86 struts (they are the same struts) i still run these in my drift corolla with over 200kw, but with decent pads, and replace the discs every season cause they wear thin, only track i've noticed fade is puke

also on (usually old) boats you can get build-ups of corrosion/etc on all the earthing points, so each one has a small resistance, can add up... but yea multimeter in the 10a slot will give better results

lets go to pick a part one weekend next month mate.

Im sure there will be something to help your problem.

What model falcoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooon?

anything mid 80's are around a 130mm OD, even commodore's are similar, should have a quick measure of factory ones before you goto p-a-p tho, don't want to waste that $20 on some springs that dont fit

Falcon front springs in the rear - cut to suit.

/\ this! something heavier from p-a-p trimmed till height suits...

dunno bout chamberlain's but snell springs (in aucks) is around $250 for a pair of custom springs

G series also in the aristo's etc as far as i can tell, so can buy trd for about ~$1200 at trade from toyota

i'd say corrosion inside the servo, or wires to it, or where it attached to circuit board in main controller, start inspecting that part of the system...

**im no expert but spent many years fixing machines i shouldn't be touching

SAS in auckland are pretty good at matching up random ball-joints, there prices are all over the show so luck of the draw

and it seems the have a christchurch branch aswell

http://www.sasgroupautoparts.com/sas-branches.html

im pretty sure you can upgrade to G series head and stuff but the sub-frame is harder to find...

altessa lsd's are only really good if you have lots of suspension travel, if its stiff and going to un-load(lift) one wheel sometimes then torsen diffs are not much use... however there are a few options for decent clutch plate lsd's around...

that guy cam vernon in d1 rookie runs a rb29 custom mix made by e+h, so there must be some interesting combos able to be done to get a good balanced mix of torque+revs for the RB's....

i'd fully rock a r32/33 with a sr20DE+T, fuck sr20DET motors are boring to drive, need more compression to make usable power

so royce is it a 30e motor or going twin-cam?