drftnmaz

And i think you'd have to re-weld after them or add more bolt holes

leave as is... 10:1 with 8psi will make the same sort of power as 9:1 with 12psi, but 10:1 will be much much nicer to drive!
If you are really worried then run AV gas, we run 10:1 with 18psi with a huge turbo on av and it's awesome all round

why not a small notch in the rear chassis and find some other front guards to beat with a hammer untill the wheels clear? and for the camber thing once you get it sorta close then just pay a alignment guy to print out a sheet with what you need, seems to be the common thing to do these days

i would think tyre size vs wheel width would be a bigger problem?

flapper disc to smooth it is the way!

was awesome to see it hooning around the track!

I had heaps of failures with the Klingspor ones, get them hot and the glue fails, do a little side-grinding or cutting on funny angles and they can fly apart, however they are very quick to cut so can save alot of time when used properly, and time is money... first couple that let go can freak you out tho

I spent the afternoon making stuff using a makita 1.2mm blade and it lasted the whole time, abit slower to cut but took a punishing, much like a flexovit would

i think i'll try most of them over the next couple months and see if some of them suit my type of work better than others, might need to keep stocks of a couple types to suit...

thanks guys!

weld tech on the corner of allens road and something or other road have pretty good prices for cutoff and flap disks.

talk to Wayne and tell him you a one man band just trying to pay the rent. hes a pretty good guy and should give you a decent price if you buy a few. 

cheers! will pop in there and have a chat

I got them from BNT for $1 each a few times. Even bunnings charges like $3 each trade.

you mean the flapper disc's? or grinding blades? whenever i have brought cheap (say under $5) flapper disc's they are very poor quality and last 1/5 of the time a $12-15 flapper does

I was just as bunnings eariler today checking out stuff because I had some other bits to get, and the cheapest 125mm cut-off's they had was the makita pack's of 10 for ~$33, the only single 125x1mm they had left was $5.90! (100 and 115mm were cheaper but no good to me)

.8 sounds lush, keen to give that a jam

awesome, thanks for the idea's guys!!!

I haven't dealt with PPS before so will pop in there and have chat (as i'm often in penrose)

atm im not totally sure what i pay, being through a mate but i've never got a invoice or anything, was getting the KLINGSPOR brand and would get a box of 25 "125mmx1mm" and 4 Z60 flappers for $100, so i'd guess ~$2.5 per cutoff and ~$10 per flapper

For a while I had a engineering shop that would give me all there old flapper's (what they said was rubbish was only half life to me) and i would just use those, but again mate doesn't work there anymore so no more hook-ups

I'm not necessarily looking for the ultimate cheap price, just a fair deal with little-to-no hassle, i like the flex-o-vort? blades, not a big fan of klingsport, and will try out some makita ones this arvo and see how they last (noticed they are 1.2mm rather than 1mm)

I think this is tech? if not please feel free to move it....

I'm looking for the best place to bulk buy grinder blades, mainly 125mmx1mm cut-off blades, I had been buying on staff account from a mate but he has changed jobs, I'm self employed and go through 15-30 a week so need a decent place to buy them, also I go through a few flapper disc's and grinding disc's but not that many

Was gonna start getting them from BOC because i have a account there but they seem useless at holding stock and often have to order them in on request

I would like to buy 50-100 at a time for a decent price, where does everyone else go? (happy to set up a account with a worthy supplier)

oh and im in auckland but don't mind getting them freighted here if needed

ring msnz tech department in wellington and quote them your chassis number, they should be able to check the system and help you out, they are normally pretty helpful (all my log books have chassis numbers in them)

bolt-in cages are quite hard to do under the rules so most don't bother, and as for weld in, the new rules say the main hoop is now made from 44mm tube and the rest from 38mm, and recently they have added a couple more bars as compulsory like the belt bar that heaps of people seem to leave out

i run a 2-piece in my race car and the only troubles i have had is ripping the mounts out of the floor for the hanger bearing, (obviously not designed for anywhere near the power i put through them)

i run a n/a engine 9.5to1 and 20psi, its no drama, just need to have a tuner that knows what hes doing and use the fuel to cool pistons and starve off detonation (ie running 11to1 to 11.5to1 AFR's) running rich like this looses you stuff all power (like 3-6kw) and keeps things safe, then the only downside is how much timing you can chuck at it to make power, but if you're not chasing big power then a little bit up top is a minor trade-off for a super responsive fun car

can you not mill the head chambers to bring compression to where you want it? adding 10cc to that volume will drop the static compression by about a point (im way to lazy to do calc's for you)

measured up some s14 stubs, ~35mmx55mm, you could build a sleeve? and s13 is slightly smaller but haven't got any kicking around

yea you can run ke30 or early ke70 87mm steering arms, have to run the ke30 brakes on 30 struts, think they have the smaller spindle...

they are 28mm by ~15mm wide on the inner bearing and 17mm by 15mm wide on the front bearing, and about 70mm from outer edge to edge, i've only got the stub sitting here atm

i haven't got any veriners here, but ke70 looks about 28mm, will try to find my verniers for proper measuring

if you could bolt a starter motor on and do a compression test that would be top of my list

the smell inside the rocker cover, can often smell burnt oil when engine has had hard life, or fuel if rings are fucked

pretty much always a gamble tho, 20de are worth next to nothing so not that much of a gamble?

Have you looked at building up a good oem core with oversize wheels rather than a kinugawa unit?

I know which i would rather have..

this /\

and murch is the man when it comes to turbos! although he'll try and talk you into a holset, cause there cheap/reliable and make decent power

i run a td05hra-16g in 10.5 hot side and i get 220kw on 17psi...(on sr20) with decent cams my tuner said 245kw shouldn't be a problem, twin scroll fucking rules!! have heard the 20g wheels tent to choke abit with the td05 hot side, but haven't tried it myself

prob 285cc...

the adjuster on the front will normally just be a pot that varies resistance to a transistor inside the unit that varies the voltage to the motor, so measure the motor with multimeter and see whats its doing? it may be supplying 12v and a 5v motor may be fitted?

or the transistor has gone bad (not too likely) or the wiring from the pot at the front has been damaged creating a high resistance so telling the transistor to supply more power than it should

sweet! its a cool computer system!

Is there anything out there i can get a 16" 4x114 steel wheel off, they are to be widened, so any offset etc should be workable, even space savers considered as a last resort

anyone know of anything out there that runs these factory?