Ogre

^Type F is pretty much the same as a universal tractor oil. Universal tractor oil has the friction modifier in it for the wet brakes. 10W hydro is really what you want but the normal run of the mill 46 hydro will do. Just dont want anything that has an EP additive, eg gear oil.

Just make sure she isnt going to get a mouthful of water though inlet after you do epic spins.

Are those water cooled ex manifolds? Please do exhaust straight out with no baffle tanks etc. So much more badass!

Buy heat exchanger and fit sand trap or you will be cleaning the POS all the time

^Lol not the first to ask, its 95 octane, not to sure on the supplier, pretty sure its wealleans

So, no update on the above, been way to busy to look at that engine. Isnt throwing belts at the moment but i know the issue isnt resolved. Will be getting DTI on it on the next week or so.

Currently had issues with other boats, one witch has an ability to bend and burn valves in 20mins of hard running. Is the 5th time it had a rebuild and BOOM, burnt valves after 30 odd mins or hard running. Back to the engine builder for that POS.

^I will take note of this, thanks dude

Yeah next step is DTI i think, its been an issue with this boat for about 2 years apparently and has always been corrected with a new balancer, then it deteriorates spits belts,  and then balancer gets replaced again. Not the right solution. Spitting belts 20km up river from base full of passengers is a serious pain in the ass.

The weird thing is that there is less run out on this engine than the one on the other side (when just looking at it run). BTW this is a twin engined jet boat, should have mentioned this at the start...

I know what you mean KK, and i have tried it that way and seems worse. All the manuals ive looked at are always refering back to this kinda thing:

38 minutes ago, k-trips said:

You running V-belts or multi-rib?

This is perfect for V-belt

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-g3969

Multi. Most of the V belt setups ive seen in commercial jetboats have twin V belts too.

^Oh damn, i forgot about that thread. Shows how well the search function works...

Its a standard "mercruiser" set up in regards to pulleys, alt position etc, so pretty well tested.

Have tried the shorter belt and that has helped. With the shorter belt and the new balancer its staying put, but i fear over time the issue is going to come back.

I haven't looked into the smaller drive belt. Could be a really good option. Will measure up with our other boats and see if there is a difference there.

This is the setup:

Spit belt = overheat = the coolant you can see in the hull. Not good.

Haven't been to active here on OS for ages, back on here and want to kick it off with this.

Whos got jet boats or even interested in jet boats? Keen to ask some questions over time, see your pics, videos and share some knowledge. Some of you will know why i am asking this.

My first question.

One of my Jetboats is throwing fan belts constantly. Is a 350 chev with serpentine setup. As soon as its over about 3900rpm, peak rpm is nothing above 4500 it spits the belt. 

Replaced harmonic balancer with another 0 balanced which has kinda helped the issue but i know its gonna come back. This is the 3rd harmonic balancer on this particular engine. Suspecting a bent crank or something. Ive tried the usual stuff, new belts, pulleys etc. Thoughts?

Fuck yeah Jet boats!

Pics for Thread.

They prob don't have that oil because it's not used much and/or the 15//40 does the same job

^This. Its a multigrade but only just. Weirdo Euros...

I recon this guy deserves it.

Im sick of people doing things like this then bitching about it. He has done a massive skid (by the sounds of it) and is now crying about it.

Value of the vehicle should be taken into consideration though. If some shit kick does it in a 1986 mitsi mirage compared to this guy for example then that is an proportionate punishment.

Ive been in the exact same position. Sustained loss of traction, arrested, car impounded etc etc. Do the skid, get snapped then pay the price sorry fellas.

Ps - Im not trying to discourage skids either. More skids in the world would be a good thing. But there are rules. You have a loud V8, everyones out to get you.

Full syn 75w85 gl4 oil + all the other things everyone has suggested

4g63 SOHC , bolts in, even bolts to to the gerbox you have but would suggest getting a 5speed to go with it. Easy as.

Many people on here have done it before.

^ I totally understand where you are comming from and pretty much agree.

I need to take my oil salesman hat off sometimes...

I must say that i have found going to a mineral/semi does seem to fix some issues, and thats what i have recommended a number of times to people that arnt the usual retards when it come to engines etc.

The other thing is changing oil brands and grades all the time. If you change to a diffferent grade or brand then the new oils additive package will strip the buildup from the other brand inside your engine and this can do all sorts of weird shit. Often will take 2 or 3 changes with the same brand etc for it to settle down.

5w40 is too thin for that many kms. Change to some 15w40 and report back.

I dont want to get into this, but 5w40 and 15w40 are no different in viscosity in an operating engine. At start up at -10 degrees maybe, but after 1 min there is no difference.

There is no way that you should go to anything thicker than a 40 in a modern engine like that. From factory they are made to have a 30 yeah? I would stick with what the engine was made for.

What ever the issue is it has nothing to do with the oil. The only thing changing the oil specs will do is either lesson or worsen the issue to a small extent.

Have you always used the same brand and grade of oil?

Penrite, Valvoline are crap. All the second Tier oils are, anything thats from Ozzy is a re-refined oil. Ie, second hand. Eww.

Put a 5w30 Castrol, Mobil, Total or somthing in it. See what happens.

Does the oil smell like fuel at all? Does it seem to use oil after a longish drive and not so much on shorter drives?

Yeah this is cool.

 "292 degrees advertised and 13.5mm" is what i had on a cam with this engine. Bigfoot has it in his lancer now. Was a good cam. Plenty more top end and was still perfectly drivable and didnt drink fuel.

I do need a few interior/dash trim bits like the speaker surrounds etc, ill flick you a pm when i go have a proper look

 

What did you to the the suspension? fill me in!

No problem. The parts i have are the tan interior im pretty sure.

"Megatowers"

I used a bit of 75mm long 100x4mm tube, took about an hour to weld, clean up and paint. Doing this also means i can achieve a shit load more slam if need be.

I recon 50mm long would be more than enough even. If the car is FULL of people and stuff it actually gets so low after bumps that those tiedown loops next to the lower rear arm location point hit the ground. Bits of road and sparks flying. Pretty LOL but probably not the best thing. Thats why i think 50mm would be better.

Oh this is fantastic!!!

How much travel do you have in the rear before bump stop? There is an easy fix with modifying the top of the strut tower. Did it on my XE and made the thing alot nicer to drive.

If you find any louvers let me know, been after a good one for a while.

Ive got an XF parts ute if you need any little parts. I pretty much cant use and body panels or interior on the XE.

Lancers are bloody narrow, the colts mind you are abit wider.

There are two easy options i can remember that would be an upgrade.

10bolt sigma wagon diff. Are l200s 10 bolt coz that would be good too.

The rear axle out of a libero. Turbo ones are LSD, but i think they are an 8bolt centre?

Pretty much if its the right width it will work. Only other thing to consider are ratios and how difficult it will be to fit the driveshaft to it etc. leaf rears are easy.

No they wont. What you have is the best option, unless you want to go to twin sidedrafts or something like that.