RUNAMUCK

Not wearing a seatbelt is for cretins.

I had the pleasure of six hours of surgery thanks to not wearing my seatbelt. four hours trying to save one of my eyes, and another two putting 250 stitches in my head. Not to mention needing three blood transfusions not to join the ranks of the dead.

All that from a crash that I would have walked away from unhurt if I'd been belted in. Being almost blind in one eye sux. But your special, that wont happen to you.

Heaven forbid it ever did you'd wish you had worn it. I do, I'm speaking from experience. Do you think NRHA or V8 supercar, or any other race drivers ride unbelted? Why might that be do you think?

But hey, if you don't wear one you could qualify for the darwin awards. Removing your dumb genes from the gene pool through an act of stupidity.

Merry Xmas.

Some guys at my work have been working with some Seppo company here in CHCH to do testing on sum clever new barriers. Probably cos those ones are bad news.

Your avatar is a crack up man!

I've had shitloads of Vals. (Still own two)

How loud is the click when you crank it? Valiants use a starter relay. It's a black box on the left side inner gaurd.

Is it manual or auto?

If its an auto, there will be two spade terminals coming out at the top, one big terminal with a nut, and another spade terminal below that. The manual cars have only one terminal at the top. The other terminal is the earth feed from the inhibitor switch, this is earthed to the body on manuals.

The relay will click when you turn the key. The big terminal with the nut takes a +ive battery feed from the fuseable link. When you turn the key the terminal up top lives up, which energises the relay and connects the power from the big terminal to the lower most terminal. I think that wire is brown. That wire is the crank feed to the starter motor. I think the vals with electronic ignition also have a blue wire which goes to another terminal on the starter.

If these are mixed up, it wont crank on the key.

If you can get a hold of a haines workshop manual, they have a pretty good wiring diagram. If you have a diagram, the rest is very easy.

I'd reccomend using chasiss clips. They are very like P clips, but they're made from metal and have rubber on them to protect the line. I only found out about them after I secured my 3/8 line with the plastic ones. They a bit dearer to buy though.

Yeah the good old declaration certificates were the bomb!

I once had an RX3 coupe that used to get wofs with cutties!

This thread is so on the money!

A mate of mine has some car mags from last century, and they are filled with cool cars, and usefull tech.

PC goes something lke, Limp dick faggot buys a car (On tick) in pristine condition from a car yard. Spends enough money on it to make a deposit on a house. Pays other people to fit lots of brand name goodies, and to give it a flash paint job. He is sooo cool. Now everyone line up and suck his dick!

I used to read street machine a lot back in the 90's.

Their build ups used to go, A car enthusiest who always wanted one Finds a really rusty/rough Holden/falcon/valiant. Spend thousands of hours fixing the body and building a really powerfull and clever powerplant/driveline set up.

As someone has already said, it takes 10X+ the hard work and enthusiasm to make a 30 year old car really nice. [/i]

A mate of mine old man has been spannering trumpets almost since they were new. You could say he's a triumph specialist. I pop in now and again to say gudday. Despite having been his bread and butter for many years, he hates them. They are badly designed, under thought, over engineered shit boxes. everything the poms did, the japs did better.

But, he did a great job of tuning the Hitachi SU's on my datsun!

The one I've been told about was the uncles of a good mate. My mate aint a car person. His unc is really old, or dead. The car is shed stored, and so I'm told mega mint and unmolested. Mitsubishi's are shit heaps. (in MY opinion, so don't nut off if YOU disagree) But If I could score it for a couple of grand, It'd be a sweet money spinner.

I knew a guy back when I waqs at school who was hell stoked on a GTO that he scored. OIt was a compleate pile of shit. In fact it was rougher than my old 30 owner RX3 coupe. ( Yeah you bet that had had a hard life)

I just took a snoop at trademe,. There was a couple there asking over 10K.

It might be worth investigating this one further me thinks.

What sort of money would an old school mitsubishi GTO be worth?

I thought I'd ask here, 'cos I don't have a clue. I haven't set eyes on it yet, but apparently it's super mint and very original. An old guy has owned it for many years, and he's now either dead, or too old to drive.

I know it's hard to make a call with out pics, But whats a ball park figure?

I started off running 7-8 degrees static, and from there I knockred it back as far as it would go. I am also looking into a few dizzy mods for this engine.

I was running a decomp shim, but I wont be on the new motor.

A rising rate fuel reg is only required on a blowthrough set up.

Forged pistions are way too expensive.

The cost of a set of forged slugs will pretty much build my whole motor.

I am running a drawthrough set up, with a 32/36. It is difficult to intercool with a drawthrough, especially as I have limited room.

My CR was 7.9:1. I was running an A15 head, which has a smaller chamber.

It didn't melt a piston, I blew a head gasket, notched out the head face, and cracked the head.

I had been running 11psi of boost, driving the blower at a ratio of 1:1.

After talking to CHS, I think I may munch out a bigger dish in the piston, using the lathe.

Bart.

HI, I am in the throws of building another engine for my superchaged datto. A bloke I know reckoned that if the piston crown height is too low, (@TDC) this can cause detonation. My old motor had a decompression shim to drop the CR, but for one reason or another detenation hurt my old motor. This time around, since I am starting from scratch, I really want to get it right from the outset. Has anyone else heard of low piston height leading to detonation?

Bart.

A no $$$ trick to keep your springs captive with a cut/reset/shorter spring, is to remove the screw in bit in the top of the strut leg , and place a peice of pipe on top of the strut rod. Then when the jack is jacked up/ gets airbourne, the travel down will be limited, and the spring wont be able to come loose. Eh bro!

My thoughts are that anything older than 79-80 isn't old school unless, it is RWD, pushrod, or datsun. So that includes the dirty DX,. Anything out side those criteria, I wouldn't cross the street to piss on, if the bastards were on fire!

Drive a true old school car, (like a datto) and you can feel the hand drawn/designedness about them. Cars from outside this bracket , don't have any soul.

Cheers for the link, interesting reading. I also have an L20b motor with twin SUs on it aswell.

I'm a bit reluctant to pull the weber off as despite needing some minor rejetting, it goes quite well. (plus when I dump the seconary, it makes that cool wee blurp noise that a carburated rotary makes when the secondarys have been manualised) Anyone know why they didn't put a draft operated butterfly on the secondary in those webers? The stock datto Hitachis have them, makes them more economical. (explains why those two litre Fords are heavy drinkers).

I met a bloke today through a datsun website. He had a VERY tidy 1200 SSS. I took him for a blat in my supercharged 1200 sedan. He was suitably impressed. As he has had some proir experience with both supercharged,and turboed Datsun "A" engines, I was interested in his thoughts. Anyway he reckoned that I would be better off to remove the weber 32/36 that I am currently running, and replace it with an 1 3/4 inch SU carburator. As thiis is a fairly old school query, I thought I'd ask for opinoins here. What experiences have you all had with either carb? Anyone have any Ideas as to what CFM an SU is? (some of those webers are up to 320 cfm) Plus he said that with an SU set up, I could get the whole shooting match under the hood, unlike now, where the carb and air cleaner stick about 4" inches through the bonnet. It looks very cool, and gets plenty of wide eyed stares. But I live in constant fear of a defect notice from the friendly govt revenue gathering brigade, when ever I drive it.

Mind you if the enemy did pull me over, and asked to see my cert plate for the lowering, or the roll cage, as son as I opened the bonnet to show 'em I'd be screwed anyway. A cert is on the cards, but not for a few weeks yet..

Stick a timing light on it. Is the dizzy clamp tight? if so, is the rotor snug on the dizzy shaft? Has the spring come off the mech advance weights? How good is your fuel? I has a rotor move on the dizzy shaft once. It gave it about 20 degrees advance and the bastard wouldn't start.

My old RX3 coupe had a decleration certificate. The car was EXTREEMLY dodgey, but on the numerous occations I got disco'd the cops would look at it, scratch their heads, and send me on my way. All it said was how far it had been lowered, not how far off the ground it should be.

Guess what? I have done this! I have a s/c 14 on a datsun A14 in a 1200 sedan. It goes like last weeks pay.