RUNAMUCK

I think the slip was even faster than that. I did tell him that he should post it up.

I didn't bother race, even though I did have use of the old mans ute. I was too hungover and I CBF in the end. BUT, I did shoot out for a look. I'm pleased to report that EFI_LC got his 1st sub 13 seconds timeslip. Maybe if we're lucky he'll post a pic of it.

sweet. I didn't have the benifit of a drill that could go slow. The 'lectric drill had the speed controller burnt out using it to mix grout with.

I tip I've found helps is to use an air powered drill, and turn the pressure way down. this means you can draw the hone up and down to get the right patten. Too many people spin the hone too fast, and the cross-hatch pattern winds up too horizontal.

Thats what I'm hoping to get. It wont be a world beater, (It's stock apart from a W50 5spd, and the 16's) but it's all about the fun of doing it for me.

The bummer is if I break something, I'll have to help fix it.

And cos it's so hard, the sparks are hot as fuck. You can also do it with the brass hacksaw, but you need to be carefull not to fuck the axle.

I'm gonna try to borrow a car off a family member so I can race.

just undo the torque to fail bolt heads using a center punch to undo them.

OT, do you know where there are any R30 rear end parts? I have mate who is busting for some r30 parts.

I sand blasted the underside of a valiant bonnet with my home sand blaster. Took forever, but it didn't fuck the panel. Mind you a val's bonnet webbing is stronger than the unibody construction on some old jappas.

I've heard though, that sand rapes panel steel, and soda doessn't. I personally just use a a wire brush cup wheel. Takes a bit of time, and covers you in shit, but not as much as sandblasting does. You'll still need to scuff up a key on the steel afterwards, for the paint to stick to. For $700, I'd bare metal your car for you with one. Only takes a day or so.

well not everything. But I once used ti to decarb the combustion chambers on a clyinder head. They nwere caked with carbon, hard. And it left them shiney. But it burns like fuck it you get it on your skin. I had to wear gloves goggles are a resperator. Hmmm, maybe it won't shift tyre rubber.

Since my last post got erased, I'll try and make a constructive contribution to this thread. Maybe try paint stripper. it's not cheap, but it devours anything carbon based. including skin. It's about 60 bux for a litre or two. I used to have a job where I used it by the 20 litre container. if you get some of that, I think it would eat it off the driveway.

another good indication of how fisted the motor is, would be to see how much blowby is getting into the crankcase. If it has lot you can be sure it's had the arse screwed off it. And may even have a dickey piston/ringland etc. in which case you either need a new engine, or if he's poor/tight like me get a used piston or two and give it a low buck birthday.

The other gay thing is that the diff that is a near perfect fit youyour car will be like rockinghorse shit. Thats inevidable.

Just to be a contrary cunt I'm going to disagree with forced.

Spark plugs do have a working life. Once it's over, they gottta be replaced. It happens. PLus if it was been screwed, (it's an EVO, of course it's been screwed) any detonation may have fucked the plugs.

^^ Bummer.

I sold a machine grey twelve hundy coupe I used to own to some young guy. I started seeing it parked (must have been where he worked) all the time. The muppet had got a black spray can, and painted "SLAYER" on the drivers side of it in big letters.

A bloke I new who knew someone who new him said he totaled it driving around the hills.

AND, I sold a B310 sunny to a (Tasty) young blond chick. She matt blacked it, gave it a really untidy tint job, and choped out the springs. I went to the trouble of having some colour match made when I carried out some rust repairs. So it rotted my knob that it got matty B'd.

You'd likely need a valuation from dealer.

Angle grinder with flapper disc or wire brush/P&R stripper to bare steel

Apply Deoxidine 624 or POR-15 to metal. (won't have to if you use a flapper disc and it's clean new looking steel)

Etch prime

Bog

Prime

Win.

You mean,

Etch prime

bog

sand

prime

top coat

Win.

Primers aren't usually waterproof.

Her's isn't old, but it is her baby. And it's had some money spent on it too.

your book deosn't have a book value for an SiR, just an Si. So it gets devalued hard.

maybe she was. Are you Allan Riley? If so, she's going to see you again soon.

My val isn't highly modified, but it isn't stock either. And with the price of gas, I will be lucky if I can afford to drive it once a month.

yeah, I used to have some of this acid shit that you brush onto the rusty area and leave to sit before priming/bogging.

you've been pm'd.

I saw a CA18DET powered kp60 at the drags destroy it's tail shaft. People were snooping under the car on the trailer and say "oooh, maybe I should put a loop on my car sooner rather than later" I still haven't though. bit it is on the ten year plan.

whe the M/C has been fully drained, it's often nesessary to bleed the actual M/C itself. Some hve bleed nipples on them, some you need to crack the nut where the brake lines go in. Once you get the air out of there, you'l be able to get it to push fluid out.

(if you already tried this, my apologies for not reading the thread properly)

Insurace companies are Jews. It's a sad fact. My mrs drives a very tidy gay honda. It's had a full respray/nice wheels/clear tail lights etc. There also aren't many V-tec's left in her model. (All got written off back in the day ) The jews at AMI sent her the policy renewal, and has wiped like $2K off the value. She went and got a valuation from some car yard saying it was worth more, and AMI were stuck with that. Then (Just in the last 3weeks) she got this years renewal, and they tried to wipe a whole shitload more off it's value. But the bloke she delt with said if it happend again just to ring him. I suppose their computer just automatically devalues a car based on "book value".

When I get my valiant on the road, I'm going to get a valuation from Moorhouse Muscle. They'll give me a sweet really high one. (And If it does get crashed, it would cost shitloads to fix, 'cos tidy replacement panels for my model don't exist.)