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RUNAMUCK

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Posts posted by RUNAMUCK

  1. Thanks for the tip simon. I might try that. I might also try switching to a thinner oil. I've got another box lined up, but the guy is very reluctant to sell it to me. I'm going to take him for a ride to convince him of why I need it so badly. Striaght cut gearboxes don't even use synchro's I wonder how they get away with that? Otherwise the box is noise free. (I replaced all the bearings when I 1st fitted it to my bellhousing. The gayest part is that in order to fit my input shaft to a new box, means replacing $200 worth of bearings. (Give or take)

  2. maybe. But then I'd be replacing what ever I used instead just as often. So I'd be no further in front. I'm sure I nread once sumwhere that you can do something to the rings to help the oil out so that they grip the tapered faces they run on better, (And faster) and (Maybe?) last longer.

  3. okay, so lets assume I'm a granny shifter. Can someone please explain these principles to me? I just rev my car til it goes flat, then kick the clutch just long enough to grab the next cog. Sometimes I barely even lift my right foot.

    I'll be nicer to my gearbox if there's a way to do it without taking longer to change gears.

  4. I have a problem, The synchro's in my datto are a distant memory. New ones cost the earth. (Like $45USD each) I'm likely going to find another used gearbox, and make it fit my bellhousing. (It's a rare as rocking horse shit 63a dogleg 5spd for an A series datsun) I pretty much drive my car like I stole it, and run it at the drags as often as I can. Many of my mates who are burdened with machanical sympathy, cringe at the sight of my shifts.

    Apart from not chopping gears so voilently, (not really an option here people) is there any tricks to making my synchro's handle the jandle?

    I'm not far away from cracking 13's, and I really want to get there this year.

  5. Joshua,

    I'm hurt that you trekked all the way up to churchur and didn't txt me to say hi!

    I got a 2 pack of JD 1 ltrs for Xmas. We could havesat in the shade and sucked some down and bourb's and spoken of all things car. (I've done fuck all else this holidays lol) And you could have pined my filthy CA18det of demon deal-ness. :P

  6. Did you get the kind like in the picture? Or the kind with the wee orage ball that gets lifted up the tube with units on it? Years a bloke I know borrowed the kind with the ball from somwhere, and sync'd up the hitachi SU's on my old L20b sunny coupe.

  7. twas a bit dissapointing that the timing gear was out of order again. Good to see Dan and his lady there though. I only made about 5-6 runs and then I didn't race again. Seemed a bit pointless screwing the shit out of my car with no timeslips.

    I've heard that ALL who raced tonight will get to race free at another street meet they are trying to shedule before the digga southern natoinals. They are desperately keen to get all the bugs worked out of the tree and timing gear before then.

    There were some quite enthusiastic skids afterwards. My skid tyres were half flat and too sticky, so after I heated them up, The front just sledged and I couldn't stay on the pad. (They were stickier than the the tyres I raced on!)

    As soon as I hear confirmation of the next meet, I'll be posting it up.

  8. I'd tend to agree with bubblegoose. I was once given an RGV that wouldn't start for free. Pulled the carbs off, and cleaned them out. drained the tank, and put some stones in it to scrape loose all the shit in the tank. B it of fresh gas and new plugs and it started 2nd kick.

    The carbs were blocked solid with crap. Some of the orifaces were so small I had to sharped a piece of gas welding wire to a needle point to unblock it. (tip cleaners and compressed air wouldn't even get a look in it was so small.)

  9. its pretty hard to tell but i reckon its got some get up and go.

    I can vouch 1st hand that this thing indeed gets up and goes! I've lost count of the number of times he's handed my arse to me down the 1/4! :cry::lol:

    If I get a 12 ..... I might sell the engine a build another.

    Time for some forced induction aye mate? :twisted:

  10. Ok kiddies, I go the word toady. Here's the deal,

    DRAG RACING STREET WARZ

    WED 6TH JANUARY

    RUAPUNA PARK CHRISTCHURCH (ENTER OFF LEGGITS ROAD, OFF HASKETTS)

    GATES OPEN 430PM

    GATE ENTRY $15. (INCLUDING RACERS) OR $50 FOR A CARLOAD (5 PEOPLE MAX) (FREE GATE ENTRY FOR PBDRC MEMBERS)

    COSTS $50 TO RACE,

    MUST HAVE,-HELMET, WOF, REG, AND AN OVERFLOW BOTTLE THAT CANT LEAK ONTO THE TRACK

    BURNOUT COMP AT CONCLUSION OF RACING. (FREE FOR RACERS, $15 FOR NON RACERS)

    BE THERE OR BE GAY.

  11. Took spark plugs out and sprayed some crc down the holes, no longer feels sticky at all, has all the standard turbo gear bolted up to it at the moment and is in a car, so will unbolt and try pushing the apex seals at some stage. I can get my hands on a compression tester, but will have to get the starter motor going yeah? I cant get an accurate compression reading by turning it over by hand?

    also, you want to remove the shrader valve from the end in the comp tester if it has one. Or alternatively hold the release button down while you comp test it.

    For each bank the needle should rise 3 times as each of the three sides of the rotor pass their compression cycle. If it only rises once, you have a blown apex seal. If only twice you have a blown side seal. Do this for both banks.

    if you dont remove the valve before testing you'll only get the compression reading from the best chamber.

  12. If it has no zhorst manifold on it rotate it clockwise, and shine a torch in the zhorst ports. As the apex of the rotor passes the port, you should see the apex seal. when you can if you push it, it should spring back, and it should be complete ie not broken. Do this three times for both banks, and then you'll know for sure that the apex seals aren't blown. Does sound like it has sweet compression though. But it can have one blown seal, and still have compression on the other bank/the one "chamber" which still has seals.

  13. A cobber of mine is into his links, and has a handheld innovate wideband O2 meter. He uses it when he's tuning his full house batty. I've borrowed it on occasion (in fact still have atm, but he's said he wants it back real soon) and they are the shit for tuning your engine. I stuck it on my drawthrough supercharged A15 to see why it was hitting the wall at 6 grand. (spark or fuel) and as it went flat, the mixture went lean as hell.

    Plus settting the idle mixture, iwas able to read the meter, and tune it to bang on stoich.

    While driving, it jumps around a bit, but if you're into laptops and shit, you can do data logging. and with efi, tune around any holes in the fuel maps.

    I might even help a mate with his only just running drawthrough turbo A12 before I have to return the meter.

  14. The link wouldn't work for me, but based on the pics you fullas have posted, you could make a shitload of coin off a place like that. use the cars for a mueseam, and hold big fuck off raves and shit there. Where better to hold a rave than a lunitic asylum?

  15. I got word of this from Dan (With the gloss black S13 silvia, not to be confused with the matt black S13 silvia. lol) he'd prefer if it can be held on the saturday instead. BUt, when it's been set in concrete, I'll post full details. We had 507 people through the gate last friday. (And I don't know how many cars racing?) That was achieved with only 2 weeks notice!

    So with this much warning, we should be able to double that!

    I'm thinking that it might be time to flick the switch of death too. :badgrin:

    14329.jpg

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