RUNAMUCK

need to finnd alfa 33 1.7 if poss to get 40mm idf dhla, 1.5 gets 36mm,

33 1.7 ie is injected later

CUl8er might know where a pair of these carbs are.

brumbys are sweet, too. jsut be careful about rot, very VERY careful

I once owned an early twin round headlight ute. The damn thing could climb trees in low 4. (Once pulled air so big the landing pushed the tyre off the bead) But they are notorious for cancer. Mine had shitloads of rust lurking beneath the paint. it was a feric oxide timebomb. Plus the CV's were so fucked that they didn't so much click as roared road driving down the road at 50kms.

I even would have let you touch my four port CA18 cylinder head. Now I have to drink that JD all on my lonesome. lol

You coming up for the rakaia cruise? Or just for the general chaos for four and rotors?

Don't wirte off the possiblity of finding a non fucked turbo motor. look for a NZ car. Most of the turbo's were imoprts that got their clocks wound back hard. I owned an NZ new turbo leone wags once. It had 320K on the clock, and the motor had never been touched. (The guy I bought it off had put the last 120k's on it)

They are such a good motor that they use them in gyroplanes. (A mate of mine with a deathwish is building one) And you can't use fail-tastic motors in the aviation buzz.

I have been toying with using some redline oil in it. If it doesn't work though I'll be straining it through a coffee filter and using it after the gearbox changed, that shit costs the bloody earth!

Sit in the other side of the car will prolong it mate!

I get awful nervous when I'm not holding the steering wheel in my hot little hands. TBH, I don't know how anyone can ride with me. My hair would turn white if I every had to ride with me driving.

cheers for the link Flawless, I'l scope it out.

Damn that would be awsome! You could mount them sideways, and have a 45mm dellorto sideraft on each side, with air ram vents in the bonnet over each carb. I wonder if the early 4wd gearboxes would be able to handle a drag launch? or would that be a lunch?

I've done that in the past with other gearboxes I've owned. 5th gear is the best one to steal from cos you never change down into 5th. So it's normally the least worn. 2nd and 3rd on my box are completely fisted. It's a full blown cunt that it wrecks many of the bearings to pull it apart. Although if I borrow a clamshell puller, I might kill a few less that I other might. I supose the plan might be to rebuild the one in there now, while I'm abusing the one i hope to get soon.

given the layout of a suby motor, it would be pretty bloody easy. Just hack the flanges off the standy inlet, and make some flanges to suit the carbs. Then get a mate with a TIG to fizz them togther for you. You'd then need to either have a split accelerator cable made, or jimmy up a linkage accross the engine bay. Given that suby motors are so short and so flat, I don't know why somoene doesn't just stick an S/C12 on top of one, and punish some tyres bigtime?

Thanks for the tip simon. I might try that. I might also try switching to a thinner oil. I've got another box lined up, but the guy is very reluctant to sell it to me. I'm going to take him for a ride to convince him of why I need it so badly. Striaght cut gearboxes don't even use synchro's I wonder how they get away with that? Otherwise the box is noise free. (I replaced all the bearings when I 1st fitted it to my bellhousing. The gayest part is that in order to fit my input shaft to a new box, means replacing $200 worth of bearings. (Give or take)

maybe. But then I'd be replacing what ever I used instead just as often. So I'd be no further in front. I'm sure I nread once sumwhere that you can do something to the rings to help the oil out so that they grip the tapered faces they run on better, (And faster) and (Maybe?) last longer.

okay, so lets assume I'm a granny shifter. Can someone please explain these principles to me? I just rev my car til it goes flat, then kick the clutch just long enough to grab the next cog. Sometimes I barely even lift my right foot.

I'll be nicer to my gearbox if there's a way to do it without taking longer to change gears.

Bummer. Looks like I'm fucked then.

No monster panic. I was comtemplating posting a picture of it on your build thread discussion just as further motivation. But i'm too lazy to post the pics at a hosting website.

I have a problem, The synchro's in my datto are a distant memory. New ones cost the earth. (Like $45USD each) I'm likely going to find another used gearbox, and make it fit my bellhousing. (It's a rare as rocking horse shit 63a dogleg 5spd for an A series datsun) I pretty much drive my car like I stole it, and run it at the drags as often as I can. Many of my mates who are burdened with machanical sympathy, cringe at the sight of my shifts.

Apart from not chopping gears so voilently, (not really an option here people) is there any tricks to making my synchro's handle the jandle?

I'm not far away from cracking 13's, and I really want to get there this year.

Joshua,

I'm hurt that you trekked all the way up to churchur and didn't txt me to say hi!

I got a 2 pack of JD 1 ltrs for Xmas. We could havesat in the shade and sucked some down and bourb's and spoken of all things car. (I've done fuck all else this holidays lol) And you could have pined my filthy CA18det of demon deal-ness.

Did you get the kind like in the picture? Or the kind with the wee orage ball that gets lifted up the tube with units on it? Years a bloke I know borrowed the kind with the ball from somwhere, and sync'd up the hitachi SU's on my old L20b sunny coupe.

twas a bit dissapointing that the timing gear was out of order again. Good to see Dan and his lady there though. I only made about 5-6 runs and then I didn't race again. Seemed a bit pointless screwing the shit out of my car with no timeslips.

I've heard that ALL who raced tonight will get to race free at another street meet they are trying to shedule before the digga southern natoinals. They are desperately keen to get all the bugs worked out of the tree and timing gear before then.

There were some quite enthusiastic skids afterwards. My skid tyres were half flat and too sticky, so after I heated them up, The front just sledged and I couldn't stay on the pad. (They were stickier than the the tyres I raced on!)

As soon as I hear confirmation of the next meet, I'll be posting it up.

fail yes, but it would be very consistant which is win in DYO format! Although not as much fun as a fast car.

I'd tend to agree with bubblegoose. I was once given an RGV that wouldn't start for free. Pulled the carbs off, and cleaned them out. drained the tank, and put some stones in it to scrape loose all the shit in the tank. B it of fresh gas and new plugs and it started 2nd kick.

The carbs were blocked solid with crap. Some of the orifaces were so small I had to sharped a piece of gas welding wire to a needle point to unblock it. (tip cleaners and compressed air wouldn't even get a look in it was so small.)

weld the zhorst up, and then take it for a test drive. (Down the quarter mile! bahahahahahahahahahaha )

its pretty hard to tell but i reckon its got some get up and go.

I can vouch 1st hand that this thing indeed gets up and goes! I've lost count of the number of times he's handed my arse to me down the 1/4!

If I get a 12 ..... I might sell the engine a build another.

Time for some forced induction aye mate?

Bumpity bump bump!

this meet is on Wednesday.

dust off your mullets, tune up your cars and get set to get your sorry arses down there!

$100 best skid, $50 fastest tyre pop.

BE THERE OR BE GAY.

Also I got an email to say that there will be prizes for the skid comp too. Tell you mates. (If you have any )

Ok kiddies, I go the word toady. Here's the deal,

DRAG RACING STREET WARZ

WED 6TH JANUARY

RUAPUNA PARK CHRISTCHURCH (ENTER OFF LEGGITS ROAD, OFF HASKETTS)

GATES OPEN 430PM

GATE ENTRY $15. (INCLUDING RACERS) OR $50 FOR A CARLOAD (5 PEOPLE MAX) (FREE GATE ENTRY FOR PBDRC MEMBERS)

COSTS $50 TO RACE,

MUST HAVE,-HELMET, WOF, REG, AND AN OVERFLOW BOTTLE THAT CANT LEAK ONTO THE TRACK

BURNOUT COMP AT CONCLUSION OF RACING. (FREE FOR RACERS, $15 FOR NON RACERS)

BE THERE OR BE GAY.

Took spark plugs out and sprayed some crc down the holes, no longer feels sticky at all, has all the standard turbo gear bolted up to it at the moment and is in a car, so will unbolt and try pushing the apex seals at some stage. I can get my hands on a compression tester, but will have to get the starter motor going yeah? I cant get an accurate compression reading by turning it over by hand?

also, you want to remove the shrader valve from the end in the comp tester if it has one. Or alternatively hold the release button down while you comp test it.

For each bank the needle should rise 3 times as each of the three sides of the rotor pass their compression cycle. If it only rises once, you have a blown apex seal. If only twice you have a blown side seal. Do this for both banks.

if you dont remove the valve before testing you'll only get the compression reading from the best chamber.

If it has no zhorst manifold on it rotate it clockwise, and shine a torch in the zhorst ports. As the apex of the rotor passes the port, you should see the apex seal. when you can if you push it, it should spring back, and it should be complete ie not broken. Do this three times for both banks, and then you'll know for sure that the apex seals aren't blown. Does sound like it has sweet compression though. But it can have one blown seal, and still have compression on the other bank/the one "chamber" which still has seals.