RUNAMUCK

I love it dude!

My old man has one of these but it's way too original to make it as cool as yours will be. I owned one of these when I was in High school. But 318+ 17 years old = car on it's roof.

If you haven't been to their website yet, check out 440source.com. they sell a pair of bolt on and go cnc machined alloy heads for under a grand US. (Plus our dollar is going off atm too) They flow something like 230cfm out of the box too. Although I did read that you need to throw away the valve locks and keepers, and put some brand name ones on. With a good pair of heads and a sweet cam and manifold, even an ex motorhome 440 will kick arse hardies!

Choice!

BEWARE of skimming your 265 head too far. IF you remove too much, it'll fuck up your valve geomerty with the hydraulic lifters. No offence, but you sound a little bit out of your depth judging by you questions/comments regarding the matter.

There is the right way to (re)build and engine and 10,000+ wrong ways. the internal combustion engine is a marvelous invention, but it uses very fine tolerances. (measured in thousanths of an inch) There are many variables, and it only take the tolerances to be out just a wee bit in one area, and the whole thing can fall to shit.

I'm not trying to sound preachy, I'd just hate to see you spend coin on your donk and wind up worse off than you are now.

Each engine has it's own individual tricks and pitfalls. For good advise on hemis, check out the mopar market.com forums, or hemi6pack.com forums. The guys there have lots of know about them.

As Graham said, the bearings are more important than the rings. Used hemi's are bad for camshaft endfloat which cam fuck up the mesh between the oil pump gear and the camshaft. Lose your oil pressure at revs, and your engine is TOAST. I've also found that the crank pins are prone to ovality after years of hard work. (I'm picking your engine hasn't had an easy life yeah?) To check this you really need a pair of micrometers. vernier calipers (Even digital ones) just aren't accurate enough.

You can measure your bearing tolerances with plastiguage, but that wont show up any ovality in the journals. Plus that would require buying new bearings 1st, which may them be useless if your crank needs to be reground. (A regrind will set you back at least $300) Plus I'd borrow money and bet your timing chain and gears will be cream crackerd too. (I've never pulled down a hemi where they weren't)

As for using the 265 head, what carburation are you running? I say this because with the bigger valves of the 265 head, you might loose a wee bit of velocity in the intake. and unless you're running a big cam and upgraded carburation, (along with the larger combustion chambers) you might actually lose power.

You keep blowing head gaskets, have you had the head you're running now skimmed? (dumb question, but if it's a bit warped no headgasket will keep things sealed)

http://toycrazy.net/index1.html

I'd roll like this, but with the blower before the IC. Blowers make stupid heat, so the IC would be needed. PLus you could overdirve the supercharger to fuck and by the time it was just about to burst into flames the stupidly oversized turbo would have spooled and FUCKING BANG! the blower cuts out, and the car becomes invisible behind a mamoth smokescreen of burnt rubber.

Also with a clever top mount manifold for the turbo, the blower could be mounted down low on the other side of the engine. (There is FUCK ALL room on the intake side of a CA18det FWIW)

Rebump!

This epic event is this sunday boes, and bo-ettes. grab your datto's or old school nissans and come and enjoy a sweet day with a great bunch of like minded people!

I don't have the mad skills to make a drawing show up in my post,

But I'd rock the turbo oulet to the intoercooler, with the supercharger running in paralelle off that line before the I/C. Then fit a TB between where the supercharger comes in and out of that line. then once the turbo has spooled the blower cuts out, and the TB opens which means equal pressure each side of the supercharger.

Did I draw you a picture that day you came over Dave?

I'm gagging to build such a set up myself. I scored an RB30 and a 25DE head for just that purpose. (Because everyone knows I need more projects. )

I've heard murmurings that early det engines didn't have the girdle or squirters. Does this one you have have the squirters?

Blocked radiator?

no.

make usre you include the ballast in said circuit mr B/goose.

I'll bring it to the after cruise BBQ/piss up Ryan.

excessive crankcase pressure is symptomatic of over-taxed/butt-fucked top rings. Thats pretty commen with engines that have been +T'd. The good news is it doesn't neccesarily mean that your oil control rings are mitsubishi'd. (I've had supercharged motors which had mad blowby, but have burnt no oil)

Just plumb it back into the intake and boost hard.

I really meant to bring the vid of that cruise etc to that thursty thirs at R/side that time, but I forgot.

Having once been for a ride on a mates CR250, I was going to agree with the CR500 suggestion. (The 250 was a scary beast to say the least) But having seen the 2000cc CR500 monster, I'm in love! That would be off the chain!

As for outboards, they have terribly small cooling capilaries in the block to compensate for the stone cold coolant. My old mans jono is a 2.7l V6 two stroke that rocks 225hp. Would be epic on land, but heat would cause untold reliablity issues.

I'm told back in the day people experiemnted with outboards in speedway, but the heat fucked them. Although, if you were to run methanol.................

Have you changed the plugs, or just cleaned them? I once had a set of brand new plugs which got fouled on the 1st fire due to an incorrectly plumbed fuel reg. I cleaned them so good that you could have eaten off them, and the were dead. Did exactly what you're describing despite looking brand new.

Whats your ballast resistor like? have you measured the voltage at the coil while the engine is running? if you unhook the fuel line to the carb(s) and crank the engine, does go-juice squirt out in lovely eye burning jets?

have you tried using a different coil?

Have you tried a different dizzy cap/rotor/leads?

Have you tried (Dare I say it?) the standard carb and manifold?

Good shit!

Be sure to come on the cruise if you are!

It sucks that this meeting always falls on the same day as the NZdatsun clubs biggest event of the year. So I never get to compete. (Except for one year that it was held on the monday cos of rain on the sunday)

Zeb, you'd rather go hang out with an army of flat peakers than actually go on the most epic cruise of the whole year? oh my....................

Also, dont assume that your blower will pump it's ctual displacement per rev either. A blower will only ever be within so many % effeciency.

A mate of my old mans son rolls a turbo LD28. He tells me there is at least two blocks. One has more ribbing for her pleasure/more strength.

The only thing it'd be any good for is mounting on the dash to blow cool air in your face in summer!

Bumpity bump bump!

This is only a month or so away now. So it's time to start thinking about coming if you have a datsun, datsun era nissan, or vehicle namufactured by the prince motor company. (Or if you have mate who does, get them onto it!)

undo the four bolts, then bolt the drum on backwards and smack it with a deadblow hammer.