RUNAMUCK

Did you isolate the tapping noise you detected Si?

This thing would have to be a starter for 1st friday of the month meet yeah?

Thats a good looking set up Simon. I love the turbo manifold especially. Although having blowthrough efi is underutilised if an intercooler is included. Are those manifolds hard to obtain?

Anyone know of a good cheap solenoid or actuator?

I'm fairly certin that a subaru leone central locking solenoid would be just the ticket.

The mechanically driven Charger steals horsepower from the crank in order to make said boost. So once the turbo has begun pumping (utilising the wasted heat energy from the exhaust gases) there is no sence in continuing to waste crank power when the trubo can do it for "free" (granted their are tradeoffs with a turbo)

IF you had the outlet of both the turbo and the supercharger feeding into a Y pipe that lead to the intercooler, I cant see why it would cause problems if you just turn the supercharger off when need be, unless air could leak back out through the supercharger the other way or something.

Yes it would leak back out through the supercharger. (which I think Simon already alluded to) Given that many engines can draw air through a supercharger which isn't being driven, having (say 18psi of) boost pushing again the blower outlet side whilest it wasn't being driven it would turn backwards and bleed off precious boost. (read horsepower)

What a waste of an old ford! (I'm not even a ford fan, but I can apreciate an old one)

I still have many of the parts form the VG coupe that I rolled. As well as shitloads of bits from all the vals I've dismantled.

I think I sold my last spare offset booster. I have piles of front rotors, but most of them are worn fairly thin. (They changed the iron they used when the model changed to VJ and they wear down shitloads faster than the VH and VG ones do)

Back in the 90's it was quite commen to use XA falcon discs. I think you need to change one (or both) of the bearings to suit the falcon hub, and turn a bit off the OD of the rotor as they're of a larger diameter than the val discs. That said I've never done it personally, and XA shit is just as long in the tooth as val gear now. So it'll likely be just as hard to find/worn out as most of the Val ones.

Needs to be way more TV coverage of this.

X2! It's by far the coolest racing there is. (Only because most of us have engaged in back road shenanigins ourselves at some point)

with a bit more warning NZdatsun could have shown them how it was done.

Dependant on how together car is as to whether or not I'll be there..

Just bring the dirty bogan 'coon Chris.

What happened to you and Stu(?) Sam? You fullas missed an epic day.

You know you want to mate!

You wouldn't be looking at running huge boost old an antique (lol) like the 202, but the instant torque delivery that a supercharger offers would be like adding another 4 cylinders. I know that If I could get an efi manifold off the shelf for my car it would have been injected as well as blown long long ago.

pics or ban!

I didn't actually sit down and think about where said vaccuum signal might come from. (hence saying like a BOV) But yeah, I'd lean towards having things electrically operated too.

Nice to have met you Simon, shame it was so dark, I couldn't get a proper look at your engine.

Here are pictures from the NZdatsun.com 2010 Akaroa cruise (Blatently copeid and pasted from NZdatsun.com)

My datto is road "legal" once more. If I remember, I may make an appearance too.

cough! Forced induction with efi. cough!

EDIT, I know where you could get an eaton M62 off a nissan VG33. (Similar displacement to a 202, and you've already got an efi manifold............)

After having a huge chat to Dan last night as Simon's, (And laying awake half the night thinking about it) I see that the pic I reposted above Would result in compound charging before the turbo spooled. This alone wouldn't be a bad thing, but it would mean an actual boost drop at the point where the turbo took over from the blower.

Dan is all over it with his idea of running seperate Airboxes for the turbo and supercharger. And running like a BOV (looped back into the airbox) to prevent the turbo from being deadheaded when the Valve in the turbo outlet is closed. This enabling the turbo to flow air and spool boost. (The restriction for it to boost aginst would be the oriface in the BOV.

Given that It'll be supercharged, it'll be quite easy to trial and error what size orriface the BOV would need, and how much turboboost is needed so that the turbo kicks in hard(er) than the supercharger boost that will already be present. (without getting a blip, bog, or hesitiation when the changeover occours.

The more I think about this, the better and better the posibilties seem to have the boost level (and the kick in) adjustable so that you could jump from 10psi to 20psi instantly.............

I've learned a lot from this thread. Thanks guys.

Supershed?

You WILL post pics of the inside of your S/Charger! I want to see it in all it's naked glory!

I wouldn't run a system where the intake rebreathes the blowby. Its non performance enhancing, and as the inside if you IC gets coated in oily slime it reduces it's ability to conduct the heat away from the boost and back into the atmoshere.

I run a custom made catch can, which has a baffle in the top to discourage stuff exiting via the breather cap. (Used to run a really unhealthy motor that was all blowby and condensation)

But a word of caution, mount it as far away from your heater cowl as possible. Nothing worse than when your engine starts to breath hard, (Like when you're giving it death) and the sickly reek of bloyby comes in the cabin. Make you feel quite ill.

For the shutoff valve, just plumb a throttle body into the line which prevents the air compressed by the blower going back out the turbo charger. Then run a hobbs switch to cut out the blower clutch/actuate (like with a subaru leone central locking solenoid) the thottle body open once the turbo has spooled up. Then the boost from the turbo is flowing freely past the supercharger, which just lies dormant .

Just like this but using a mechanical valve rather than a flapper valve.

(And having the blower before the intercooler as I mentioned a few posts back)

That'll give you nil lag (even with the sweet sweet four port head) and sledhammer like acceleration in the mid range to top end.

Sorry Dan, I must have had brain fade.

If you have the turbo and blower you mentioned above, Id use the blower to spool the turbo and then have it cut out. reason being once your nice big turbo is spooled the blower clutch disengaged and the power being generated at the crank isn't being wasted by turning a pump that you don't need.

Have you ever seen John Van beeks old supercharged CA18DET (Minus T) 1200 coupe? That went pretty hard on "I think" 9psi. (Matt who owns it now has sqeezed a 13.7et out of it) So running your two pumps in a non (true) compound charged fashion could give you 9-10psi from idle, and your big dirty turbo kicking in far sooner than it outherwise would have. Then when you're doing a max speed run you wont be wasting horsepower turning a blower that is doing nothing.

If you want to learn the best way is to learn from someone who actually knows.

Word!

Perhaps what separates your dirty old chrysler hemi from a motor like say an A12, or a 3K is the physical size of the parts. And perhaps the age too. I've been party to reassembling engines without double checking everything. (On account of cost) But a motor like a hemi is more inclined to fail if it's tolerances aren't right. they bang out way more torque, and the moving internal parts are much heavier. they are a Fucking bainging engine that can take a fuckload of punishment, but For my money I could never afford to spend coin on a fix that "might" work.

Roots Blowers aren't all that noisy on their own. Most of the filthy whine that people asociate with blowers is the dirty gilmer drives that V8s tend to use.

The reason why (as already said) a true compound charging set up would be a fail is because the S/C14 is so limited.

I run one on my 1500cc datsun driven @1:1, producing 10psi of boost. Given that a built as fuck CA18DET is going to scream to easily 9000rpm, and that it will take more overdrive to reach say 14 (Or even the same 10 as I'm running)psi, the blower will be running so hard that it'll be doing more harm than good. Mine punches hard in the low and mid range, but loses some of it's sledgehammer like vigor when winding out in the upper rev ranges. Think too that given the lack of VE that an S/C14 runs, the overdrive required will not be a lineal increase.

The whole logic behind having both to me is the brutal antilag that could be harnessed. Dave could run a stupidly big turbo like a T88, and still have it spooling before the blower runs out of effeciency. Speaking from my personal experience, the toyota blowers taper off dramatically with rpms, not just higher boost levels.

If you're really that hung up on scavenging, just open up the LSA buy 1/2 a degree or so.

if you're going to bin it, you can give it to me lol.

unfortunately, unless you have at least a bit of the right gear, and some experience with engine assembly, no-one can really "tell" you how to rebuild your engine. A real good workshop manual is a good start. freshening up a motor can cost from $300-$300000000000000000000000000000000000000000000.

12 second torana! Congrats mate! I've got a lot of catching up to do now!