RUNAMUCK

I didn't break any records tonight. Didn't break my car either! YAY!

Wasn't many takers for the burnouts. One skidline, one skidvia, and two datto 1200's!

I just sat in one place nudging the redline untill my temp guage went past 120C. Should be some vids up soon. (most unimaginative skid ever)

I ued to know a dodgey cat who sold a complete shitheap Avenger sation wagon dereged, with dereged toyota plates on it. The buyer knew all the the above, and got it for $60.

The next day it died. They wanted their money back. WTF?!

I think the diaphram is dismantled, and then reassembled with the spring on the other side of the diaphram. So it runs Advanced under normal conditions, (May need to adjust base timing to suit) and then as the boost rises the pressure make the arm retard the timing. (I imagine the weight of the spring used would need to be a bit clever)

It's wholley possible the factory rotoray ones had two diaprams back to back, so that it could both advance from vacuum, as well as retard from boost. (Although, don't quote me on that one)

Another clever (But very costly) option would be to use something like an MSD 6AL BR module. These retard your timing electrictronically as the boost climbs.

Caveat emptor motherfucker!

I have no experience with chineese turbos, but I did see cockram nissan were selling them a while ago. (I assume they still are) So it must say something for them if a big dealer like tham will sell them, and stand behind them too. (Although they were unable to tell me if they were carbon sealed or not)

Aside from that, I did read an article in some uassie car mag about cheap turbos. It reckoned ones with a 360* thrust what-cha-ma-call-it were worth giving a punt.

If you have the documentation saying AIWI, then he can GTFO.

Tell him if he's that ned out of shape about it, you'll see him at the disputes tribunal. (Make him take you there, and he can pay the cost too, after all, it's his problem)

They'll see what you've got in writing, (And get your witness to attend too) and tell him to go eat a dick)

If people were keen to go back up to the go-kart track, it would be insanity not to head inland just past cheviot, and cut through Waiou. The road spits you out after the hundalees (sp?) about 200m away from the track. Plus the road has sweet fuck all traffic, and is a great mix of straights, hills, and twisty-turnys. I passengered that route last year, and spent the whole time wishing I was driving myself.

When quality rebuilds was in Christuchuch, I spoke to the (now former) owner Barry Emmes about modifing a standard vac advance Diaphram to become a boost retard diaphram. He sold the company to a mob who are now in Auckland, but they may be able to convert one for you. The beauty of boost retard is that when you're off boost, but still stoking along you get the benifit of better fuel economy than you would without the added advance.

Hey, Are you mates with Josh with the Z18et powered datsun 1600?

I saw a KE20 very much like yours at his house aa while back.

I was gonna suggest him, but I couldn't remember his name. lol

Start by registering at www.nzdatsun.com. Best NZ based datsun site by far.

For your fuel requirements, you're going to need a surge tank. You'll have to run a low pressure lift pump between the ruel tank and the surge tank. A cheap option is the ones found on carb'd subaru leones. (Identical to a facet) They're a bit hard to locate on the car though. (Found under a small steel plate, just in front of the right rear wheel)

Then you'll need a high pressure EFI pump. The easiest and most commenly used one is the VL commodore one. They're popular becuase they aren't an intank pump, and they're common and cheap.

The cunty bit is you'll need to run a fuel return line back to the tank. You'll need to use steel for this. The tube isn't that costly, but it's a real cunt to work with. What I've done with one of my datsuns is run a nice 3/8 steel line for supply, and used the old 1/4 line for the return. You're also going to need to have a return hose nipple fitted into your fuel tank.

As for the brakes, there are many many options available to you. A very easy upgrade is to fit S13 (non sr20det powered ones) brakes to your existing struts. But then you're still left with spindley stub axles, and weak springs. you can fit heavier springs though.

Also are we talking about a B210 or a B310? The S13 swap aplies to the 110/210. The 310 is a different kettle of fish again.

Another way you could set up your vac advance, (Which nis how I plan to try mine when I ditch my locked dizzy, and go to my new old stock one) is run the feed to the diaphram from after the turbo. Then static time your engine with the hose connected. (At idle) I don't know about a turbo engine, But I have loads of vaccuum at idle on my supercharged engine. So It stands to reason the Vac mechanism will provide decent advance. Then once the turbo begins to spool, this "Initial" advance will fall way. Hopefully leaving the total advance at a safe number of degrees. I'm not a huge fan of locked dizzy's, but thats what I've been forced to run myself thus far.

^ rotors!

I bought some parts off a crashed RX3 coupe back in late '98/ early '99. The left side A pillar was damaged from the crash. (Windscreen had cracked) I picked at the crack in the paint, and it came away revealing the A pillar was made from rolled up corrogated cardboard anf trusty old bog.

DId they have a boost retard style diaphram on the dizzy?

Fuck yeah I am!

I just got my car going again today too.

Lets just keep it a bit more chilled than last years one though aye? All those DX rolla's and flat peakers were just a bit much for me. I had a mad lol at the wheatsheaf pub, I think everyone stayed in the carpark cos they were all to young to get served!

Shit, I like your work mate.

It seems your skills at building a sweet project are only surpassed by your ability to meticulusly documnet everything. I even had a browse of your rotorvette build. You make fitting a rotor look as easy as just swapping over one 1256 to another, when compared to fitting say a G200. lol

Well if you're going to spend a few bucks on new parts, it's money for shit if you fuck up something simple and it turns out poos. I bought some parts of a guy with ADHD once. He was actually quite a nice guy, and he did me a good deal. He was "rebuilding" a motor in his shed when I turned up. I'll always try to help people with a bit of advise when I can, but he just didn't have a clue about the right and wrong way to build a motor. The block was standing on it's end on a filthy wooden garage floor. He was cleaning nothing, and tapping the new bearing shells into the block with a hammer and screw driver. I could see how stoked he was that he was going to have an "sweet rebuilt engine" for his car. I had to just bite my lip, wish him well and be on my way.

I ALWAYS remember that when I see an engine advertised as having been "rebuilt".

On the whole take it somwhere else thing, it only shows the new wof guy that it failed somewhere else. He'd have to be complete anal cunt bastard to try find out where and ask them what they're problem was with it.

Also, here is a picture I posted on another site of the cam timing.

It's important that you count the links in the chain. (hence why I numbered them in the picture)

ALL the Aseries rods I have ever seen have had the number stamped on the rod/rod caps. Without checking my w/shop manual, I think the rod oilers point to the camshaft side of the block. It's not hard to know which way around the main caps go. All the numbers face the same way, and the rear main cap can only go on one way.

Last motor I freshened up, (Honed, rings, bearings, gaskets, and timing chain) only cost me about $300. It lasted a solid 400kms too. (and one drag meeting) Mind you it was running one bar of boost with no intercooler. lol

If you get the basics right, the a series motor is very hard to fuck up.

Do check the ring grooves though. I've found they can burn nil oil, but have quite a lot of blowby if the top ring grooves are a bit sloppy. Mind you brutally boosting used N/A pistons with maximum malice and no mechanical sympathy doesn't aid things.

Well I bbit the bullet, and let my fingers do the walking. (Mainly cos I was too poor to buy gas to drive around asking at places) Lots of cunt's were shut for the break. Finished up going to elite powdercoaters and abraisive blasting in sydenham. The guy ended up charging me $10 less that he quoted too. Ten minutes later I had them hanging from a bit of wire and now they're curing in the sun. Came out bloody good too!

So tommorrow I'll fit the fuckers up, and they can get cured properly.

Those numbers don't relate to the cylinder number.

I think the "F" denotes that that side of the piston points towards the front of the block.

You should be able to find imost of the info you're going to need (torque values etc) here http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki ... cyclopedia

I flagged the header tape ages ago. It turned to shit pretty quickly.

hey who in CHCH do I talk to, to get my headers sandblasted cheap cheap? I really want to get them blasted so I can paint them good and then not have to worry about them again. The factory paint that coby put on them turned to shit the instant I started the motor. I sanded them back and did the hot paint thing, but since I had them header wrapped for a time, this has turned to shit also. So I really want to make them lush again, with the veiw to further corrosion protection.

I used to know a bloke who did sandblasting for me for a box of beers, but he doesn't answer my txts any more. So I'm looking for a similar type deal.

Anyone?

The J would be lush if only it had a 5 main crank. That is all.