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Posts posted by RUNAMUCK
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I'd just give them a wee straighten a burst up and a paint.
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On 06/09/2023 at 21:47, ul9601 said:
the scissor jacking points on the sills are bent over and have some (what looks like surface) rust on them.
the sills themselves look (and feel) fairly solid - i.e. jacked it up there and didn't crumble or crush any further than the existing damage.
would it be ok just to wire brush and rust treat or do i need to reshape/unbend or whatever else to the original profile for WOF?
In what context?
Wof?
Cert?
Revin?
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Hi @Rhubarb77
I have a question.
You've fitted after market rods, but still running Cast pistons? Surely the pistons will disinterested/migrate into the sump for for the rods exit the chat?
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^I sold that guy my bench seat.
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How close can a fuel line (hard line) be to an exhaust pipe? Is a heat sheild/header wrap an acceptable solution?
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^this is what we wanted to do with the old boys car. The whole point of an electric pump is not having to crank it for 20 seconds to refill the carb bowls.
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Does this thing go Zutututu yet?
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000151271784.html
Must have bought the 5 pin one?
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I bought some relays off aliexpress.
They had two "power out" wires. (Could be an earth trigger if so desired) one was live when the relay was energized, and one was live when the relay was not energized.
We're going to fit one to dads Car, run a 12v+ feed off the key to the switching side, and a 12v ground off the oil pressure sensor. So the fuel pump wont pump gas until the motor gets oil pressure.
Conversely if the vehicle suffers a series upset/crash/etc, and the driver is unable to manually turn off the key. Then the power supply to the fuel pump will stop as soon as the engine oil light comes on.
Not as fast as a modern vehicle with EFi. But if the driver has injuries preventing them from exiting the vehicle under 5heir own power, it prevents a small fire becoming a very very big one.
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Modern problems require modern solutions.
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18 minutes ago, EpochNZ said:
You're gonna want to switch out those tyres for something better suited to off roading.
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I say send it.
I've always liked flares. Even 5hough the ones on my old tanga were the shitty generic TE27 Levin flares.
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On 04/01/2023 at 10:51, tortron said:
And now its a mini camper.
Going to build a bathtub type base out of ply to attach it to, so it can all slide off as one piece (and have some decent mounting points)
The idea is to make it a pop up, with canvas sides. It's about 76cm tall inside, so with 1.2m of canvas sides it should be pretty good inside.
Will build a bed base/storage/kitchen bench into the ply base so it is all contained
Looks perfect for displaying a dead person for a state funeral
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^actually I think Tony once said he was the man too. (Which is high praise, cos Tony is a good cunt)
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I dont know if they still "make" clutches as such. By Tony at clutch systems NZ in chch is the fucking man with clutches.
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Yes you're tired by the end. But you'll have bugs in your teeth from smiling so much....
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You say that now, but you wont want it to end when you're there.....
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I dont think they sold a manual, but a turbo Caldina should be able to get out of it's own way.
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Unless you have massively soggy engine mounts that allow the motor to bounce all over the place, I'd be very surprised if the clearance you have there is a problem?
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Just happened across your thread for the first time. You have all the drag link clearance! Mine is tons closer. Defo pays to check your full range of steering too. On some vehicles, the link raises and lowers although its sweep. And some it moves forward and back.
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Shinko SR421 is hard to beat.
Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt
in Tech Talk
Posted
Rotary counterweights.
I have a counterweight from an N/A 13b. Which part of the engine is this matched to?
The rotors?
I also have the flywheel off the same motor. That has some pretty significant counterweight machined into it too.
Would I sell these parts together?