Sc@ Chi

If you refer to the LVVTA article, the brand was Mountney and purchased in NZ. Whether it was genuine or a knock off isn't known.

But the rules appear to put responsibility on the owner to buy something robust and the certifier to presumably visually check and maybe wobble it? Pretty difficult to impose anything else other than x-raying them.

If I remove my cert plate for sandblasting, can I just pop rivet it back on afterwards?

From the LVVTA Newsletter Cletus linked to in the Trade Me Hilarity thread (Interesting reading by the way).

Having realised my limits (Don't want to die from poisoning mainly), I'll get the professionals to quote on that colour (and then end up painting it in Timbercryl from Resene with a brush to save some coin...).

Thanks for the info though.

Thanks. I painted it meself in lacquer last time (thanks to Total Bodyshop) but it just doesn't last at all so I'm doing a bare metal/sandblast/professional paint job this time.

What's the deal with paint codes? Like if I want a particular colour (The metallic orange from current Focus pictured below), is that copywrited or anything? If I find the code, would a run of the mill panelbeater be able to apply it? I'm aware it will be expensive paint.

Asking for a friend. Etc disclaimer etc. 

Hi all,

About to start stripping the Mini Clubman Estate (my acrylic paint job looked awesome to begin with but has not lasted), so it's off to a sandblasting firm and then I need it painted inside and out.

Any trusted recommendations in the Wellington region?

I may start a build thread on here once I get going in a week or so.

TIA, Simon

Pic below is after sitting in the driveway for a year. It's me own barn find

How does this even happen by doing a skid? If you drive around tanked as hell all the time you still get to keep your car which is far more dangerous than a peel out from the lights.

 

Hell even burglars and people convicted for assault get off with a gentle spank compared to this.

^^^ This. Even a cursory glance at Motorway Patrol etc shows that DIC earns a $600-ish fine. Pink stickered vehicle, no WoF etc and they add the fines and bam: $1200, regardless of danger to the general public.

Having said that, the NZ cops are waaaaay nicer than the Aussie ones. Again, based largely on TV shows and the fact I never saw anyone nudge past 100kph in Aus.

That's why most people end up doing it themselves. A man who chops his own wood warms himself twice.

I've got a Mitech MIG and a Mitech TIG, both well supported by PMT Motorsport. FWIW...

Those are XR600 cylinders and heads. Not sure what it was used for but clearly the product of one clever bloke and his shed.

I had a TT250 of the same vintage - the most fun bike I ever had, especially on the beach.

Check out PMT Motorsport in Christchurch (Sells on Trade Me). Really good blokes and their gear (Mitech welders etc) are great. I have a cheap auto helmet from them that's worked just fine for TIG and MIG for about five years. No relationship with them, just had great service from them.

At my old work we had hundreds of black plates we would bandsaw up and reweld into "replacment" plates, it was very hard work to keep them flat,

^^^ This, before it breaks. 

Minibitz (Lee) is awesome, also Minispares.com - delivery can be as little as a week depending on time zones/ordering time/couriers etc.

Windscreen: Can be a pain in the arse. Trade Me or Minibitz for new rubber and filler strip, but while the screen's out remove the dash and check everything behind there (electrics, heating) as you can't really remove the dash with the window in.

Front subframe: May be better to get a new (to you) one.

Headlights: Common to everything that came out of the UK post-war (WW1 that is). Upgrade to H4s but install relays so your wiring doesn't catch fire.

Stop lights: Multimeter on the switch (front right of the subframe) first, the bulbs.

PM me and I'll send you some new rear shocks.

White will also be easier if you're painting it in stages. I bare metalled and painted my mini and there's very subtle shading differences between the doors, body and bonnet. Rewarding though when the finished result looks okay to you and impressive to others.

To be honest, I'd throw some rust converter into the seams then the cavity wax. I wish Bilt Hamber products were available here. Their cavity wax is designed to cope with rusted surfaces. It might be worth importing some depending on your project's ultimate value.

FWIW, my MIG and TIG both came from PMT Motorsport. Both chinese (what isn't these days), but superb customer service and both work really well. I had some issues with the MIG so they said send it back. They checked it and thought it was the little spools of wire I was using, recommended I use the bigger rolls but send a new MIG up anyway - absolutely no complaints here and I have no other connection with PMT, just a happy customer. FWIW...

Oh and my TIG is their 200A TIG/stick/plasma (I think they have a newer unit they sell now), but it works a treat.

A-series motor which is common as muck (Minis, Allegros, Morris 1100/1300, Metro and ministerial BMW limos). There are some dodgy head gaskets out there that are rubbish; chances are that's what your problem is. Ring around and find an old school mechanic and it will be cheap to fix. I'd recommend my guy but I doubt you want to cart it down to Wellington. Possibly call the local Mini club and see who they recommend. Not sure about Austin/Morris/Riley/Wolsley subframes, but in Minis, the auto motor has a slightly different subframe. But again, the parts should pop up cheap if you wanted to drop the auto and go to a manual. The only issue might be the gearlever - on those, don't they come out of the dash?

Desired Mods:

- An XR600 engine transplant (To give it more mumbo, although I am concerned about having to kick-start a 600 single… I’m a useless kick-starterer)

Do it. They are not that bad at all, once you get used to them and the manliness to onlookers is worth 20bhp easy. Mind you, my PE400 could kick back like a bitch and more than once I was hopping round the garage forecourt swearing into my (crash) helmet.

Whip the tank out. It's too dangerous, and because someone got away with it doesn't mean there aren't plenty of people who didn't. If it does go, it's you, your car and your garage gone. Plus, if your car's rusty the tank may be too so it's a great time to treat and repaint it.

This morning we landed at wgtn airport and I walked to get the car which we'd parked in a nearby street as usual. Never had a prob with broken windows. The Volvo can be a bit cold blooded so I opened the drivers door, started it up and went to put my backpack in the back (It's a wagon). Slammed the rear door and the central locking kicked in. So the car's running, I can't get in and the family (including Charlie who's under 2) are waiting for me at the airport.

I walked to the petrol station and got a bit of strapping tape but couldn't get in. So I broke the 1/2 light window of my own car. Fuck. When I got to my wife, she pointed out that they could have caught a cab while I waited for the AA. Fucketty fuck. Monday fucking monday.

I can highly recommend Ron Covell's MIG welding video. Magoos in Masterton sell them on Trade Me. $80 but you won't waste time and money trying stuff that just won't work. Or even better, do an evening class. I've done the MIG/TIG one at Weltec twice and it's $350 well spent. You also learn arc, gas, brazing etc.

I'd also caution trying to weld thick stuff with a low powered welder. I've tried 5mm with my 160A welder (Telwin), and a 150A Lincoln and it is not safe. The weld might look okay, but with a 100A welder you won't get penetration which is what holds it together. You really do need to consider the consequences if it fails, i.e. your arse on the line.