sentra

does anyone speficically deal in them?

i want some 265 40 17, or 275 same height, theres only 3 on trade me lol

do they make street legal slick type tyres for a 9 x 17 rim?

i plan on not learning to drive to beat macarbe at next trackday, but putting steamroller sized tyres on my car, and pushing some more horsepower out.

just walk in with cash and say "hey i work for "Some company" dunno if we have an account with you guys,...im paying cash" with a grin.

they also have/had a huge lot of "new" mufflers/resos/flanges etc they have cut out of premade systems that havent sold. ask about them

lie about the company you dont work for

there pretty good with that at chase, also see there "old cut up systems"

unless your ultra staunch n/a

just run low comp rotors and the factory turbo

dont even bother pulling it apart

it will go forever, and beat 99% of atmo rotarys.

we were wondering this the other day

i.e can pink stickers be removed at an aa testing station?

just as alot of the 'VTNZ' branded testing stations were painted yellow and became AA testing stations?

no reason for asking

just was at midas thismorning sorting the same problem,

they just heated bits of the system up cherry red and pushed the exhaust system up/around with a transmission jack, took an hour and $120 (inc new resonators etc to get further clearance)

dunno what mp3 player your using

i just brought a ipod car charger that had a earphones out jack on the part that plugs into the ciggy lighter,

put it behind the dash and wired it up to the car/aux input

theirfore it just had 1 cable coming out from behind the dash, plug it into bottom of ipod and it charged/played music via stero

that was with a $250? panasonic one and it was fuckin wicked/easy to use,

insurance replaced it with a top of line pioneer, which comparitily is a fucking peice of crap & is really picky about aux input voltage etc/turns off

mega ot,

what i was going on about (drunk) the other night was specifically ment to be about fastners in suspension/driveline & the lvvta.

lvvta -> to be non electroplated & higher tensile strength than x.x. search 'hydrogen embrittlement'

plenty of production electoplated suspension parts/fastners.

on topic.

that thing is ultra toit.

lol thats trying not to make money at its best, who wouldnt renew, your with nac in the first place as noone else will touch you .

ill bang them an email to cover my ass till monday

unexpected $1200 windfall story ftmw

did you blow it all on hookers?

i was thinking the otherday

im sure its been more then a year since i payed my insurance last

(atleast 2 wofs ago)

seeing as their helplines closed for the weekend

would it be pretty odd if they diddnt tell me anything?

on my other cars they call about a month before hand + send letters/generally hound for money

after like 4/5 weeks of it being rained out, make the effort for this weekend, driving work truck today in the blazing sun, arm out window, onehunga hunnies w/ flowers in hair skipping along footpath etc etc seems like middle of summer this week does the weather man say it will hold up?

andy warhol car... 787b / renown car...kinda?

dude unless your fwd who runs a flexi joint??

i needed to quickly add some substance to my benifits list, it was the first one that came to mind mines a ported rotary, the only real diffirece was the dash got a bit rattlyer. compared to the hard suspension/spherical bearing strut tops etc your likely to be using in a car that does such cranking skids that it tears mount rubbers its un noticible.

does that garage dori one have a rubber/lolathane isolator or 'just' a rod end?

noone will ever know if you leave the gbox mount rubber, it makes the car 100% more pleasant then having all mounts solid.

(not technically legal but will go over cert, vtnz. 100% safe. anyone saying otherwise hasnt done it.)

benifits include no exhaust flexi joint needed, minimal exhaust/body clearances, solid exhaust hangers mean you can drop the gearbox and the motor doesnt need supporting, etc.

put lumps of steel in and never look back

yeah, theres a valve/spring assembly, my memory is not clear but its a thermal pellet of some sort i think. i cant remeber what its worth or if i brought a new one.

do you have a copy of the factory service manuals and the exploded view part number cattledogs? i can put them on rapidshare if you like it makes life easy.

either go invest in a flywheel (the alternator adjuster gets bolted to the flywheel and the endplate to stop the motor)

or get a spackplug hole/rotor depression deadstop machined up at 14x1.25 ..*caugh caugh $15 bucks pm caugh*

or go buy a couple of gaskets from your local rotary place and after youve purchased them ask them if they could quickly do it to your motor which is nicely sitting in your boot. (thats what i do for the flywheel one, all it takes is a smile)

its seriosly tight + locktited in, youd need a serious rattle gun, i had a 2m bar on mine.

^

its not hardrned,

dont be offended if this is miles under what you know, i thought id just explain in detail

fill the cap with oil and run your drill as slow as it will go/big feed (i.e lean on it), drill a small piolet first. the otherone will no doubt need to be dressed up too, (i.e just get a new one)

it wants to be going like just over the speed you can see the individual flutes rotating, then much slower again on the full size drill,also slow enough to keep the oil in the cap.

it only takes the slightest bit of damage (normally on the outermost diameter) of the front 'angles' to make the drillbit useless. pushing it harder just work harderns the material, you will still be able to drill though this going slow enough, lots of weight. easy to damage drilling into an out of round hole (i.e a hex) carrying a bit too much speed

dont weld to the top of a recessed cap screw, it will crack with less weight then you had on it with the alen key, your then left with a mess in a hole you have no access around, whats left will be hard as fuck too.

drill down through the cap with a drill bit slightly larger than the major thread diamater untill the cap breaks away, with no tension on the protruding part left after removing the head you can easily wind it out with some bogangrips/file flats or whatever.

thats hanzhou 'itl'

well shes from asia and the goods are from asia

i have one, its fine

also a hks copy gate from the same factory

it is also fine.

and a turbo manifold (abeit modified)

which is also fine.

non precsision parts made by asian children slaves ftw

deal direct on 021302882 (txt unless your literate in broken english)

Bible/Clarkson 'And another thing', verse/page 78.

out of intrest, are the 'output stubs' on your 2 units solid or hollow

(i.e a tube with splines on the outside)

youd buy a 910 bluebird if you gleened anything from trackday homey