sentra

put lumps of steel in and never look back

yeah, theres a valve/spring assembly, my memory is not clear but its a thermal pellet of some sort i think. i cant remeber what its worth or if i brought a new one.

do you have a copy of the factory service manuals and the exploded view part number cattledogs? i can put them on rapidshare if you like it makes life easy.

either go invest in a flywheel (the alternator adjuster gets bolted to the flywheel and the endplate to stop the motor)

or get a spackplug hole/rotor depression deadstop machined up at 14x1.25 ..*caugh caugh $15 bucks pm caugh*

or go buy a couple of gaskets from your local rotary place and after youve purchased them ask them if they could quickly do it to your motor which is nicely sitting in your boot. (thats what i do for the flywheel one, all it takes is a smile)

its seriosly tight + locktited in, youd need a serious rattle gun, i had a 2m bar on mine.

^

its not hardrned,

dont be offended if this is miles under what you know, i thought id just explain in detail

fill the cap with oil and run your drill as slow as it will go/big feed (i.e lean on it), drill a small piolet first. the otherone will no doubt need to be dressed up too, (i.e just get a new one)

it wants to be going like just over the speed you can see the individual flutes rotating, then much slower again on the full size drill,also slow enough to keep the oil in the cap.

it only takes the slightest bit of damage (normally on the outermost diameter) of the front 'angles' to make the drillbit useless. pushing it harder just work harderns the material, you will still be able to drill though this going slow enough, lots of weight. easy to damage drilling into an out of round hole (i.e a hex) carrying a bit too much speed

dont weld to the top of a recessed cap screw, it will crack with less weight then you had on it with the alen key, your then left with a mess in a hole you have no access around, whats left will be hard as fuck too.

drill down through the cap with a drill bit slightly larger than the major thread diamater untill the cap breaks away, with no tension on the protruding part left after removing the head you can easily wind it out with some bogangrips/file flats or whatever.

thats hanzhou 'itl'

well shes from asia and the goods are from asia

i have one, its fine

also a hks copy gate from the same factory

it is also fine.

and a turbo manifold (abeit modified)

which is also fine.

non precsision parts made by asian children slaves ftw

deal direct on 021302882 (txt unless your literate in broken english)

Bible/Clarkson 'And another thing', verse/page 78.

out of intrest, are the 'output stubs' on your 2 units solid or hollow

(i.e a tube with splines on the outside)

youd buy a 910 bluebird if you gleened anything from trackday homey

cbf txtn its in ur letterbox dawg

measure it across flats and ill grab a bit of hex bar for you

then you can wind on that with your favorite tool

offset cheap carburation setup heat problem with expensive electronic water injection

in seriosuness

have you looked at what other people have acheived via draw thru, short inlet tract + simple pressurised bottle of water into low pressure side of carb?

the guage gets fully tapped out and the handset goes "fuckinh water temp you cunt" in big flashing letters

fuck it, keep boot in for another lap atleast.

on another note. sorted brakes today, we better be aloud back to next track day

from memory its 20 or 35 psi cap, cleaned 3 row. (i think the pump is probibly not doing much above 6k, for years ive been meaning to make a perspex front cover to have a look at it)

my wording of the question was a bit odd, i cant think of a better way to describe it, what i was trying to ask was, ignoring pass configurations and materials, what is the best way to make a radiator more efficent,

the 3 changable dimensions being width, height, and thickness.

thickness being the most commonly changed. there seems to be alot of argument against increasing the thickness to do with how the heat is absorbed into the passing air mostly in the first few mm of thickness, then all the extra thickness is doing is increasing the resistance of air passing through.

it also seems most people coming up with these facts drive hondas and in the real world what they are saying isnt significant at all. i get the feeling they are trying to justify not getting a decent radiator built.

there was enough comments on it for me to ask about it before parting with my money im reasonably convinced increasing thickness = ftw, theres just not many people i know who happen to actually 'really' know what there talking about and arnt trying to sell me a radiator

(i actually met one once at the oaks tavern, riviting stuff)

my posts are fucking long and boring

spam up funny shit to break the tone hey

i want to be able to do trackwork and doghnuts in my rotary for hours at a time,

ignoring pass configurations, materials

i allways assumed a few things: 1 being +thickness = +cooling ability , the extra distance for air to travel and the fins pitch would be reasonably neligiable in the real world.

seems lots of people are adiment that +thickness = futile for a number of reasons which sound reasonable enough, and if your going to reply youl all ready know them so i wont bother typing them out.

i personally think their all full of shit and trying to justify being tightarse

but theres enough comments about it to make me ask before spending 4 weeks wage on a friggen radiator

cheers

is the owner of this the good as dude i was drinking piss with at nicky makays(sp)'s place

nah mans, completely un-fucking related injury

id be proud and tell you if i pulled it so hard i busted it

+1 to all the above posts

+ thumbs up to the 1/4 of the breakafast organised by trd-chick which i managed to eat.

pete man, you know @ hirepool how we were talking about what the catch was for it all going so sweet, i fuckin did some damage to my knob that evening aye, i gotta goto the fuckin doctor.

hmm, 3 months ago a old unjunear at work was offering his tidy one around for $100, a guy brought it for a farm car and surrended the plates/rego for $150.

imagined it was far to quirky looking and fwd to be noteworthy.

ot kinda? i apologise.

that alphasud above, are they a sought after car?

clamp hydrolic lines/line singular in solid rear axle

eroxx?

they would both look good if they were mounted parrallell with the floor / recessed about half diameter of the body.

pete, i cant stop thinking of a condom looking at that pipe.

flat black dump ftw. and while you have the can out, mightas well give the whole car a dust over too

if a few taps with mr centerpunch around clockwise doesnt get the extractor out, give up and take the block out. trying to use carbide/cobalt drills/gas torches etc in position just dulls enthusiasm for this shit, then you end up having to pull it anyway and loseing a full day you could have been drunk in.

centerpunch works suprisingly well