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Posts posted by RXFORD
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28 minutes ago, cletus said:
This actually looks promising?
Eww, backed by Jeff Bezos. I bet its made from the same kinda plastic as his Mrs.
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Yeh I get it, just going the extra mile wouldn't exactly break the bank considering what it costs.
An extra little bit of time to clean up and paint/seal the inside would make thier product and attention to detail much better.
But instead, I have to do it so the customer can't pick faults immediatly in something they spent quite alot of money on.
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X3 for bumper replacements.
Been dealing with them for many years and quality is nice. Although for what they charge, it would be nice if they paid more attention to coating and sealing of the insides of bumpers. But, last time I talked to them about it I got looked at like I'm from a different planet.
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4 hours ago, 63Ragtop said:
Anyone know how MIG welders work?
I've had this old thing many years, restored my car with it, the feed started getting dicky, would sometimes not work and progressively got worse until it didn't feed anymore.
I was about to get rid of it as I've got a TIG now, but came across a new feed unit so thought I'd hook it up and see if that fixes it.
Weird thing is the motor doesn't feed once it's completely installed so I assume it's earthing out on something? With just the motor wires connected it works perfectly.
Any thoughts?
Try swap the pos and neg cables over to work in Dcep instead of electrode neg like it is.
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2 hours ago, Bearded Baldy said:
Amateur, if it is long enough to tuck into your collar, you tuck it in!
When i rocked a goatee i had a very very close call with my lathe one night. Started tucking my earmuff band under my chin after that.
Good tip.
Maybe I should start wearing pants around the shop. Wouldn't be fun getting my pubes ripped out by my spinny tools.
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Because you are old and blind, grab one of your fancy new workbench lights and have a good look for any swelling of seams in these areas. Could be hidden by sealer. 32s & 33s are notorious for blowing out around them. Might have to have a gander along the rail seam from the strut side, from memory they are triple layered. Top seams of strut towers, and the gusset between firewall and top guard mount area usually go at some stage too.
While you are at it, around the outside of the area infront of the A-pillars below cowl. And the bottoms seats of the front and rear windows are another common rust spot. Oh and the chassis railettes under floor pans too.
Hopefully yours doesn't have any of these issues, but they all seem to do it at some stage. Would hate for you to spend all that time fitting the Ld28 just to have to pull it out again for more rust work.
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2 hours ago, lush said:
Which stainless trim are we talking about?
Rear tailgate window rubber perimeter trim.
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I have a rear window with seal and stainless trim if you would like a spare.
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A build thread? From Dudley? You feeling alright, must have gotten laid or something today?
Can confirm super good wee car. Got to hoon it round the block. Took me back time when I was 16 and me and da bois were baseball bat guard rolling these things to fit spittys and eagers with no springs.
I'm disappointed you didn't add pics of the super ultra mega fucked parts bugeye you ferals drove back.
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2 minutes ago, oldrx7 said:
lol! love the ankle bracelet reference.
Has there been a conspiracy thread about the donuts having tracking technology? They’re always watching
Rfid Cert donuts cause chemtrails?
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14 minutes ago, Dudley said:
What’s a wof?
Its a thing that responsible adults and non-poor people have so thier insurance is valid.
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31 minutes ago, oldrx7 said:
Spam kinda - but something I've noticed in for sale listings recently.
Sellers are explicitly saying 'old style cert plate' - as I'm picking these are preferred by more people due to them being more vague with modifications than the newer digital ones. Easier for a new owner to change a couple of things to their liking.
I rekon that munters will soon treat cars with the rfid/gps/facial rec/ankle monitor cert tags will the Lhd Rotarys of the sale world. $20k less for same car with one compared to a old plate style.
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4 hours ago, 440bbm said:
true, but for same reason everyone calls an adjustable spanner - a crescent.
'any mil'
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1 hour ago, shizzl said:
Anyone remember the name Kevin Keats? Pretty sure it was him that had the rotor farm out near Rangiora.
easy guy to deal with, had a ton of near complete cars too.
Yeh Kev was a good sort. Brought a few engines and random bits out of Mazfarm over the years. Couple mates still keep in touch with him. He was right into his de-sprung HQs and Impalas on Tridens aswell.
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2 hours ago, J4m13 said:
I take it by some replies here no one is a fan of Omar
Same opinions on him as our wannabe kiwi resident Misfire???
20+ years ago when I was growing up and part of the Christchurch rotor scene there were 2 names well known around town for stealing rotors. A fella named Nathanial/FatNat and Omar.
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Hes been trying to sell that shit for almost a year now. Started off at almost $80k+gst
I got the full list of machines off him when he first listed and couldn't get anywhere near his pricing. When I asked him for an individual price breakdown for each machine to see how he got to that total he got all shitty and defensive.
Funny thing is he probably would have sold a bunch of stuff if he split it instead of trying to offload it as a bundle. Hes a bit delusional.
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^ Mr Sisson. I don't think I've posted his Navara yet so it can be next weeks minitruck monday.
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What diam wire are you running in mig?
Getting doors off yahoo shipped over would be an expensive exercise. Surely a local shop could do some corner patches for ya to save the hassle of importing shit thats probably just as bad?
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That won't be oil. It will be urine dripping from the passengers floorpan after they experienced the raw power of the mighty Ld28
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Are you 100% sure its belt squeel? Like is it obvious the belt looks like its been slipping?
Some alt pulleys are taper seat to the shaft and don't have a keyway, some like mazda b2000 just have a straight shaft amd rely on the nut being cranked up FT. You said you have swapped out the aeroflow pulley for stock type. Is it possible the alt pulley has been slipping on its shaft?
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19 minutes ago, cletus said:
Yeh finding out thier technique/process is a good idea.
A big trick is to direct media at an acute angle to the panel so it gets up under the paint/bog and rips it off but doesn't cause much friction on the metal. This is something guys who used to only do car bodies like Andre at JetBlast when he was around and Dave at AutoBlast will tell ya. The industrial guys just go hard like theres no technique to it and don't give a fuck.
The other thing is choosing the correct media for what you are trying to get off. Andre was experimenting with raw rice blasting to get seam sealer off as sand and crushed glass would stick to the sealer and the rice wouldn't. I use Spraywell in E.T for smaller non-critical things and thdy blast with steel shot which causes alot of frictional heat. Its surprising how hot stuff gets if you grab it as soon as they stop blasting.
You will need to hand strip all the big flat areas yourself. And spraypaint them to say 'no blast'
The EV thread
in General Car Chat
Posted
Maybe it could be a popular vehicle for islamic insurgents in the middle east and africa if Slate offered a few do it yourself 'slate technical conversion' kits. Maybe one for a sam pod, one for a belt fed, and one for an rpg would cover most bases.