RXFORD

Is that laid out or at ride height?

What angle is the 2nd shaft on?

Most of the online diagrams go out the window with bagged stuff because they are geared toward the pinion being far lower than the output shaft on trans.

Spicer has a good angle calc.

5 hours ago, hood said:

Thanks Clint, that makes sense.

Yeah I'll go with a wrecker if it's a last resort

Go take a marketplace Hilux for a test drive and switch them out. Thats what Billy T would do.

Work Meister Wednesday.

The qd32 is just a newer big brother to the td27. Bellhousing patterns are the same and a bunch of other parts like the manifolds are interchangeable so its possible the heads are the same or similar.

The 'Td27 Torque' facebook page is a wealth of knowledge so chuck up a post on there. 

The only real 'controlled' way to shrink is oxy/acet heat shrinking. You were kinda on the right track, but most likely heat up too big of an area with the butane.

Firstly find a dolly thats either the same crown or slightly less of a crown as the panel/area you are shrinking and grab a flat faced panel hammer. 

Onve you have identified the area thats too full and needs shrinking, use a small gas welding tip (not a big cutting tip) and heat up a small 5c coin sized spot til cherry red, then while its still red, start lightly hammering it. I set myself up something I can safely chuck the torch over so I can drop it and start hammering. The initial blows might have to be a bit harder to dress the swollen centre down, but then for the next 20 seconds or so, just lightly dress the surrounding 50mm radiused area down. 

It should now be cool enough to touch. It will still be warm, but nothing crazy. The light hammering just helps control the shrinking while cooling in that area. It may shrink slightly more once its completely cooled depending on the location, but at least it won't do any weird shit because you kept it localised and told it what to do.

The idea behind the lower crown dolly and flat hammer, is to dress the material into itself, rather than stretch which is what would happen with a higher crowned hammer and dolly. The concentrated pinch would just start stretching again. 

Don't use any form of wet rag or air to cool it. Just the hammer/dolly, then let the rest cool naturally.

Shrinking discs work ok sometimes but it has to the 'perfect' high spot. Once you get good at heat shrinking you'll be set.

Saw this on a Facebook post.

Looks like a Mitsi Debonair.

Its on a barge off Waiheke Island.

Pretty random.

25 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Did you know QLD has no regular roadworthy inspections? How can it be that the fatality rate there is lower than in NZ?

 

 

 

Fines are hefty unlike Nz. Even for minor shit.

Highway Patrol are savage.

Being Defected can be similar to recompliance here. They can Dereg your car if the mod plates don't match mods.

These things combined likely scare most people into making sure thier shit is up to scratch. 

I've been to a bunch of car events in Aus and Highway Patrol have blocked each end of town, and set up 'shaker stations'.  They load your car on and it shakes them around. If anything isn't secured or comes loose, you get defected and big fines.

Overall, we have it pretty easy here. 

4 minutes ago, cletus said:

That sheet is in degrees and minutes- that means 2°30' is your max not 2.50°

So only one side is over on the rear

I'd just raise it a whisker and avoid having to buy arms

Hah, good timing, you peeking through my window!

1 degree is 60 minutes, so half a degree = .30,  not .50.

Your left rear camber final is 2.38 (2 degrees 38 minutes), which is just over 2.5 degrees, (only 8 minutes over)

I'd just run it through as is. The rest is fine and as its close enough that if it were checked again on a machine it could be within. 

Awesome man what an epic result! Hope you enjoy the fuck out of it now.

Holy moly this thing was chooched, but you're getting that shit handled !!!

Solid effort. 

Coming togethor nicely, looks mint!

On 02/02/2024 at 20:56, cletus said:

Possibly unpopular opinion,  but..

70 series have to be one of the most over rated over hyped over priced vehicles ever. Toyota must have been laughing their arses off the whole production run 

80 or 90k to buy one and it's bare bones, still a design mostly from the 80s, the V8s don't actually go that well, they are heavy, ride like shit, the track width is considerably different front to rear, they have dx corolla door handles etc etc etc

 

So you buy one, and then need to spend another small fortune to make it actually good. Then once you've barfed up the whole arb catalog on it , it's too heavy and you can only carry a pie before it's over GVM

Settle down mate, did a 70series beat your plymouth at the drags or something? 

10/10 rant though!

Actually, I looked at pics again, is that Andrews B1600? Doesn't look clean enough to be Wiremu's.

Either way TDS did both of them originally but I'm pretty sure the B2K truck isn't and never will be legal without alot of rework.

Andrews truck is legal though but was certed wayyyy back in the day. I think if he recerts it for the engine conversion those arms might get picked up and fail because of welding. 

Regarding the pie-cutting issue... that looks like Wiremu's B1600 which Mat at The Drop Shop originally bagged. He always did upper arms like that and back when I worked there they used to pass cert, but theu won't these days because of the welding. Nowadays and for the past 10 years at least, modified suspension arms need to be Tig welded, not Mig'd.

I think you will have a hard time getting a yes or no from Clint or any certifier over pictures like that because of how little they deal with that kind of mod these days. But the general idea is whats required. 

If it were me, I would just do whats needed, like open up the centres for bag clearance like in your pics, pie-cut them just enough to your desired tyre size (+5-10mm incase of uneven ground) do all the necessary reinforcement, then when you are closer to the point of getting it legal, submit pics/ measurements/Ndt report etc to Lvvta for Design Approval. 

That way you can continue with the rest of bag/shock mounting etc. If they are a complete fail at Design Approval time, then the only option will be fabricated tube arms, which isn't really too big of a job amyway.

On pre frontal impact utes you can remove the rear tubs as long as you have a hardlid, and can remove front tubs as long as it has a bonnet. Wheel tubs are not classed as structural on a pre-frontal full chassis vehicle unless there has been a rule change recently I'm not aware of. However, some certifiers may want to see a larger/higher tub put back in, or some form of reinforcement. 

Only a small percentage of minitrucks in Nz have had new front tubs fitted after bagging. Most people just leave it open.

Paint looks great, keen to see it slammed on some roh Zs. 

Spew

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1122503855593300/?mibextid=dXMIcH

On 09/01/2024 at 16:54, Muncie said:

I wish I had his crackhead ADHD energy to complete stuff. (Not saying he's a crackhead) his ability to do massive hours at a deadline and turn out good quality is amazing.

Half the stuff isn't done by him. He has a bunch of people/other shops helping. When ya get that famous people help for the 'fame'. Plus its 1000x easier/faster building stuff when nothings going to be legal or engineered.

On 09/01/2024 at 17:11, rotormotor said:

I can't decipher if he has a side hustle paying job, or does customer cars  in his workshop or just has a priviledged life lol.

 

Cant see any room for customers cars.

 

Has as many projects as Mr Hol does!!

Social media pays well, thats why every 2nd goober who owns a set of spanners starts their own pages these days. That Jay fellas been doing it for years apparantly.

Thats Manfred from Boulevard Metalworks. He had this one listed a few months ago. I thought there no way he will get anywhere near $10k for it given the fact that some others hadn't sold for even half that around the same time. But it got listed as Sold as week or so later. Not sure what the actual sale price was though. To be fair is was a p21 which a bunch of bits, but thats pretty up there in price.

I guess he figured he'd try profit off another. Pricing is all over the show it seems, like sometimes they sell for bugger all, then all of a sudden some dummy pays huge money for one. 

Makes sense as trade plates are not registered to a specific vehicle, they are registered to a business.

At entry/first reg you don't need plates for registration, you need a vin/chassis number and the temp paperwork states a wof inspection has been carried out to allow you to reg and get plates assigned.