R100

Since my first post I have purchased a non ETi QD32 from a 1999 Nissan Atlas. It a non turbo version but I plan to turbo it as I have a couple of blown QD32ETi engines I can take the turbo manifolds off. Still work in progress at this stage.

Google lvvc wheel offsets. Have a look at the pdf file. Lots of info on it.

Poohs that i didnt go. I really thought it was all too good to be true and the reserve prices were going to be high. Same time im glad i didnt. I tend to hoard way to much stuff. Good to here a few cars ended up in the hands of OS members.

Engine sitting in hole now with gearbox attached. Very happy how it sits with plenty of clearance so far for headers, mounts, starter etc. Even the gear lever lines up (almost) with the hole in the tunnel. Pushed it outside with the engine and box in place and the front didn't drop much, indicating the V8 weights approx 50-60KG heavier than the I4 4 cylinder.

Have done a bit more on this project but not much. I lifted the front leaf brackets 25mm and remade the area going over the diff head to be a little shallower to allow for the head not hitting it. Fuel tank sits to high and needs approx 35mm cut out of it to make it clear the terrano body (tank is from a ute) I have sliced the tank in half and will weld is back together, will also need to shorten up the fuel gauge sender and intank pump assembly to suit. BEFORE AFTER

Weighed the engine as-well. This is what it weighs as pictured without a flywheel or gearbox. I never got to weigh the old engine befor i sold it. So cannot compare.

Bolted the gearbox, bell-housing and engine together. Next step is to remove the sump as it faces the wrong way then drop the whole lot in the hole. I pulled the old 4 cylinder and auto out and managed to sell it for $400. Engine bay looks nice and big, plenty of room for the Windsor.

Sounds great. Pm sent.

Couple of goodies that arrived last week Conversion components W series to 6 bolt windsor bell housing. And a Power Plus Typhoon Polish intake manifold.

This is correct as long as the vehicles registration has lapsed and not been deregistered by an insurance company etc as a written off vehicle.

Van was being worked on today actually. Ive located a pair of 2.75 ratio ford 9" diffs i need to go pick up aswell. Will get some updates in the van thread next month.

Going to smash this out as soon as i can. My bell-housing arrived this afternoon from conversion components in hamilton. Scored a low kilometre 289 windsor out of a ford ranchero that a mate just imported from usa. 66thousand miles on the clock. Will give it a little freshen up, a nice cam, lectric dizzy, 4 barrel mani with a matching carby. Need to make up some custom headers. Hope to have it mounted up later next week.

Yerp, i realised that after i made the post on my way home from work!Edited

Recently saved this from being crushed. Its a 1990 Ford Sierra Saphire with a Ford I4 2 liter twincam injected engine and Automatic Transmission. Has been parked up and shed stored for the past 10 to 12 years covering only 129000ks. When i purchased it it started and drove well. The body is rust free and overall very very tidy. Interior is just as nice but hood lining is a little saggy in places. Perfect car to start a project. Unfortunately its been de-registered but this is not much of a drama as it will need to be certified once the modifications are done anyhow. Plans are. Remove the twincam and auto and fit a Ford windsor V8 mated to a W series toyota gearbox. Find a nice set of period wheels, 15 to 16" BBS or similar. Give it a bit of low for some stance. A front brake upgrade of some sort. Maybe some cosworth 4 pots. Thats the basics of it.

Looking at swapping out a TD27 turbo engine for a QD32 turbo. My understanding is all the QD32 turbos are known as a QD32ETi with an electronically controlled or partially controlled Diesel pump. Hoping someone has performed this conversion or knows a little more than myself about it. Can i swap the standard non electronically controlled pump off my TD27 turbo onto the QD32 turbo ? Is it easier to use the QD32 pump wiring etc and leave it electronically controlled ? Will i loose power from going with a TD27 standard pump ? What is actually electronically controlled and/or how does the ETi part work ? Cheers

Who did your cert check if you dont mind me asking.

Im thinking ill go for a 20mm plywood deck. The steel under the deck witll be 400mm spacings. I will also ad extra strenght into the areas that will be under more stresswhen its loaded with a car on it. Thats the plan anyway

My dad had one of these but it was a 110r coupe in yellow. Looking back i wish we kept it as i never saw another one again we sold it.

As the seller of a vehicle you are responsible to ensure the new owners change ownership. But if you got a letter saying you are no longer the registered owner then you may want to write a letter to the NZ Transport agency or give them a call on 0800 108 809 and explain the situation. You can always go www.nzta.govt.co.nz and theres a section where you can put in your rego, driers licencse etc to check if a car is still registered to you. Best to get onto this sooner than later to avoid fines if the car is in fact still in your name.

You should be able to space your standard legacy crossmembers as long as your spacers have the same amount of surface area as the crossmember mounting surface had. If you want to space everything down by 25mm (1inch") then i recomend solid steel for the spacers.

Because your car came out with a V6 and your now converting it to a V8 it will still need to be certed and driveshaft loops will be required. I would imagine your standard brakes provided they are in good working condition should be more than sufficient.

I finally removed the cab last week and started stripping it. Going to strip the cab to a bare shell and get it repainted in the standard white. Because im building my own flat deck and tow bar i need to get them certified. The certifier came over last week to point me in the right direction. I can design and weld up almost the whole flat deck myself but the load rails and mounting brackets to chassis need to be done by a ticketed welder. Same with the tow bar, it can be cut and tack it together myself but it needs to welded by a ticketed welder. There is a few rules to go by in regards to steel size and spacing between rails etc but nothing complicated.

Not according to page 4 of this LVV PDF http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/consultation/Info-2012%20New%20Scratch-built_Modified_Production_and-Rebodied_definitions.pdf

The removal of chassis number on a vehicle with no VIN number makes sense. But my argument is this. If i want to replace the bumper on my car then i can. I dont need permission nor is it illegal. Same if i replace a door, or both doors. If i replace both doors, the bonnet, boot lid, all the running gear and every nut and bolt i do not need permission nor its illegal. Its allso not illegal if i unstitch every spot weld and remove every screw and replace every part with OEM parts. So would it be illegal if i unsticted the spot welds holding the panel with the vin chassis number attached and fitted it to another car. or this, if its illegal to cut a chassis number out, how big does the cut need to be befor its not deemed illegal. Front cut ? I will rock down to a VTNZ next week to have a yarn. Will be interesting to see what i come up with.