Toucan

Yea I got no problems with it. Most computers these days should run sweet on 1024*768 to allow you to see the full width.

I found it easy to do... Just get a balljoint remover for the control arms, jack the car up a bit and then drop it out...

Getting it back in was simple too, just got a mate to use huge ass prybar to lower the control arm while I lifted the strut in place.

Maybe I just got beginners luck

Haha yea spring compressor is essential for the fronts. I took out the whole strut and then tightened bits of wire around the coils a few times then took the nut off, the wire only loosened a little bit so I was lucky that the spring didnt fly off. Kept that wire on and tried putting it back but on the strut but there was no way it was going to go on so I got some spring compressors and they worked piece of cake

I bought a dash for my 1300 because I wanted a tacho. I got the one on the left out of a mk2 sport, I know because the guy let me remove it myself. So yea, one on the left I say.

Looks good to me

Do you reckon there would be good interest then?

I'd definately be keen, much easier than buying from overseas myself.

Haha thanks, I used a very similar diagram when I took the carb apart the other day. Wasnt brave enough to take it all apart at once as shown here though lol, bit by bit so that I didnt get lost, thats the way to play with carbs

Hehe I must be a small fulla, I fit my medium perfectly

This is on my 1600 crossflow with single downdraught weber 28/36.

Yea I got the one from the intake manifold to the brake booster (servo). The one I was talking about is the really small one that goes from the distributor. I guess your right though, if it goes better then it should be the right one

Thanks BigDave, not quite what I was after but a good read none the less.

I put on my 28/36 and it was running pretty rough so I was tinkering with a screw driver trying to tune it. I wasnt making any progress and so I started playing with my vaccum hoses. I had 2 outlets, one from the carb, and one from just below the carb on the intake manifold. My vac advance went from the dizzy to the outlet on the carb and the outlet on the intake manifold was just blocked off. So being adventurous I swapped the hose. Now the vac advance goes from the dizzy to the outlet on the intake manifold and I have blocked off the outlet on the carb. Would you believe it it runs smooth as!

So my question: Which outlet is it MEANT to go on? or is there no real difference?

Hope someone can understand that

Does anyone have any links to a good site containing info on Weber carbs?

I want to see how good my 28/36 is compared to the rest. It's made a huge inprovement in power

I only used the honing tool to remove the ridge that forms on the top of each cylinder so that I could fit new rings. I didnt use it on the head so I'm not too sure??

Yea most of it is still beyond me lol

I've gone as far as taking out the 1300 of my mk2 4dr and rebuilding a 1600 out of a cortina and putting that in. Yesterday I took apart an old 28/36 weber to put on it and I've started replacing all my bushes with nolathane ones but I've still got a little way to go it seems. Ah well least its a start aye.

*Drools*

I read everything on that list and I can relate to maybe one or two of them Long arms and deep pockets you say... Something I dont quite have (yet) but yea looking good, i cant wait to see it oneday... cough-hint-cruise-coming-up-sometime-soon-cough-hint

BigDave you are a legend, your mk2 is sexual!!! and your mk1 is totally mint aswel. Looks like you've invested quite a bit into each of them, well done man You'll have to go into a bit more depth about each of them so we know just what you've done to them, looking forward to it

I was just thinking it would be hard to slide your fingers in between if the eye brow thing was in the way but I guess it would be all good

Welcome dave, you certainly qualify as an oldschooler with that list of cars

Where are you from? most of us here are NZ but as you have just seen there are some of us from Aussie also

So yea, welcome aboard and try get us a few pics of your cars in the gallery here

And then you want to be able to get to the bonnet release...

mk2_girl - its a 74 off the top of my head, I think they only made the 850's around that year But yea it does sound mean, cant wait till he lets me ride it

Hehe guess what my dad just bought... Norton Commando 850

Its pretty mint and sounds awesome. I'll chuck a pic in the gallery when I get the chance

GNR - Yea I just used the pod filter thing example, I got no idea what sort of hp increase it makes.

jaymz - nah I didnt do a port and polish, the only thing I did to the head was take out each of the valves and re-seat them, its real easy to do with a cordless drill and some valve grinding paste but it is more of a reconditioning thing than a performance thing which is what most of you will be after. Be careful if you try to do it though because the intake side of the head is meant to have a rough surface to a certain degree, I wasnt too sure how to do it so I just left mine as is.

Yea it was my first one too. Helps to have someone with a bit of experience aswel as the haynes manual. Do you use messenger? escortahAThotmailDOTcom and we can talk sometime, otherwise we'll have to make sure we go to one of the meets/cruises sometime.

Damm I got ripped off... $80 for a new square headlight from repco when I got mine.

If your wanting to raise the compression you can also put a 1300 head on a 1600 block, they have different shaped valves an all that carry on...

The rules for certing are bullshit, they say something like if you get a 5% increase in power you need to get it certed, that would mean every gay honda with a pod filter an exhaust system would need it... yea right.

I chucked a 1600 into my 1300, it's still rego'd as a 1300 and the warrant guy saw that it was a different engine but didnt say anything, and this was at VTNZ, not some dodgy garage.

The difference between my 1300 and my 1600 is honestly quite small, and I've done quite a fair comparrison (same carb and exhaust on both engines). With the 1600 I notice the extra torque alot more though, especially when going up hills. The biggest improvement you can make to each engine is the carb, so I'd say a 1300 with a big carb would go just as good as a standard carb'd 1600 so the choice is up to you. I just went with the 1600 because it was actually cheaper than any of the 1300's I could find.

Oh yea and rebuilding is a piece of cake Although pommy engines use a different sized nut for everything And yes, a gasket kit is esential ($120ish), along with new rings ($60ish) and make sure you check the bearings/crank. I also honed my cylinders before I put the rings in, I made friends with the local engine reconditioner and he let me borrow his tool for doing this, but I found that a really fine grinding stone bit on the end of a cordless drill was just as good, then use really fine sand paper and then polish them clean.

I can't really think of anything else to add at the moment but yea I've done the whole crossflow rebuild thing recently and am happy to answer any questions.

I've spent quite alot of time round te puna area and I've never seen a light blue mk1