lowlancer

So I picked up a cheap wheelset. Awesome condition and a bit retro which suits my build.. The axles have a hollowed end, so does this mean quick release? Cheers

Wait...

Doing something because other people think it's cool = lame, but expected/common.

Doing something because other people think it's lame = Mildly retarded, real talk.

Anyway, refer to above post.

Just need the bearing races or whatever they are, the cup parts that hold the bearings?

Thanks for being dudes to this noob

Got alloy stem

Headset pieces are rusty as and beyond repair. Might just get them rechromed if feasible. May also cane into bike shop and see what they have.

Haven't tried cleaning wheels yet, but pitted chrome is usually beyond help yeah?

Got any pics of said wheels? Will be keen if they're better than what I have.

Also keen on a spare headset if you have a decent one, chrome on mine is rusty as balls and unsure how well the tinfoil gag will work on such small bits.

Yeah spent an hour cleaning powder out of crank stz. Head tube was pretty well covered but also needs time spent on it but pretty good, where the lower bearing cup(?) presses onto the forks has a layer of powdercoat on it so need to file that off.

Fark this thing looks good though, black and brown and chrome looks nice.

Decided I'm gonna buy new wheels - has been a cheap build thus far but current wheels will let it down with rust situation, so would appreciate any links to decent priced single speed wheel sets.

Hey fuckers,

Got my frame powdercoated, and have been polishing all me bits ready to go back together. Promises to look super nice.

Anyone got pics of how the old headsets go back together? I was a good lad and put it all in seperate bags but it doesn't seem to work now. I also need a new long ass bolt that holds the stem/headset/forks together - do bike shops carry these?

And what thread size am I looking at for replacement pedals?

Cheers lads. Will pop pics up when complete-ish

Yeah don't bother. Get something cheap and cheerful and keep on pluggin away at the New Zealand dream

e21s are cool. no les reliable than any other bmw. harder to find without rust these days.

spraks is super cool. not very quick by any means but smiles per mile is pretty up there

Dude I know has a sweet little copper coloured one. Stock as. Just look fun to hoon about it.

I'm also looking for this sorta thing, except I don't care about fun. I just want character and semi-reliable, maybe a bit older too.

How bad are the E21 BMWs?

Speaking of Myth busters, there was a myth busters episode which had the classic "aircon vs the windows down" debate.

However their methodology was flawed, they tested one type of car and deduced that above or below a static speed, one or the other was better.

If you have a big truck or something with zero aerodynamics, putting the window down makes a small % of difference to the drag.

However a super aerodynamic car, it makes a large percentage of it.

So since the drag increases at the square of the speed, the cut off point for say 3hp worth of drag changes massively between different cars.

Not to mention that it's impossible to acheive a decrease in humidity level and temperature with the windows down, like you can with aircon.

So if it was cost neutral or even slightly in favour of windows down, aircon would be superior.

Why I am mentioning this on a forum where aircon in cars hasnt been invented yet, I do not know.

Explain impossibility of humidity/temp situ? Wouldn't the environment move toward equilibrium (temp?) Ie: If you get in a car that has been sitting in the sun all day, and is like 45 degrees inside, wouldn't the thermal energy transfer to outside air via conduction of sorts? Don't get humidity bit either.

Edit: hmmm do you mean a temperature lower than outside temp?

Sweet. Nah keen to have minimal cabling/clean as possible. Legs could do with some work!

Thanks again dudes. Will let ya know how I go and throw some pics up later on

Sweet guys thanks heaps.

Not overly keen on big chain ring, looks too big to me but when the frame is back from the powdercoaters I'll have a hoon.

As for the rear assembly, how do I tell what type it is? There's an external and internal thread on the axle thing the gears sit on.

As for ratio, I need to go up the odd hill (Wellington) so don't care too much for speed. Will have a hoon on another geared bik and see what the word is.

So I dabble in bicycles, but have essentially no idea what I'm doing when it comes to retro-fitment of parts. Well actually i have no idea with pretty much all of it, but especially the application of new bits to old shit and figured others might too.

I'm currently attempting to convert a Morrison 10 speed to a single speed CBD cruiser for getting to uni. Its derailleur and shifter stuff is all pretty poked.

Anyway, questions for the pros like Brock Lee and dodgysam etc

With the rear wheel setup, am I better buying a whole new rear wheel/second hander, or getting a $30 conversion kit off the tard? I would prefer to avoid a tensioner, I believe they are used depending on your rear dropout type? Happy to shell out to get a new chain, assume I just get one for single speed and position wheel in drop out to suit.

This leads to my next query... The chain rings I have are 40 tooth (small) and a billion tooth (big). The bigger one seems to be one-piece with the crank, can I change this somehow? Or should I just trim off the worst of the big one and use the smaller one, which bolts to the bigger one? Don't wanna spend too many $ on this thing. Hope that makes sense.

I've been told a 2:1 ratio is good for around town, but most kits seem to include a 16 tooth ring, so hopefully it won't make it too untenable.

Thanks in advance for the help. Gladly accepting inspirational images

Man this thread has become unexpectedly rad.

Love the old war stories and bad behaviour tales.

True that. I was using a 1.3mp DSE special camera featuring digital only zoom back then, probably why.

Good stuff. Avoid crashes. I hear these things like to turn to dust in collisions.

Saw one of these just outside of Tirau today and thought of this thing. Is it way more orange IRL than pics? Cos I remember my Celeste looked similarly mustardy-orange in photos, but was a lot more actual orange IRL.

Looks good man, will look so good featuring extra inch off.

Old man rolled his Mini (one of 4) North of Wellsford. The car got wrapped in fencing, and he couldn't get out, so slept the night out stuck in there. Woke up in a puddle of petrol and a bemused farmer knocking on the windscreen.

Sent my old man a link to this Cortina GT, as he had one when he was younger and has told me about it. Emailed me back with some cool details

"I paid $1100 for mine in 1972; wish I still had it! ...set up for the Wills Six Hour race, it had fast-ratio steering, lowered and stiffened suspension, Koni shocks, up-rated front struts and Michelin tyres (a big deal then). I pulled the engine completey down, blueprinted and balanced everything, fitted a stroppier cam and a state-of-the-art 11:1 Boreham head (English), a Weber 42 DCOE carb, untold new suspension bits and an expensive steering wheel then drove it at high speed into the back of a parked Nissan 240C outside St Mary's cathedral. No seatbelts then, but I was saved by my new deeply-dished steering wheel which folded down over the steering column and cushioned my chest. I punched the entire windscreen out with my head. Try that without strong drugs!"

Made me lol, figure others might have similar?

Are you going to use an existing model like the 1/24 Fujimi one as a base?

Yip. Is cheap and not a big deal if I fuck it up which is pretty much a certainty. Pretty yuck kit all up so needs a few things done to it

Fuck not bad old man southern! Cheers

Sweet, gonna purchase some bits this week and make a slow start. So keen for a SOHC 4G63 w/ ITBs under the hood but that's probably asking a bit much, ha.

Need side elevation image of a widebody starion. A drawing would be ideal (eg: something that may have been used to show livery etc) but will take any thing that is as close to perfectly side on as possible.

A plan view/bird-eye view would be the best but I doubt one of them is easy to find

Am wanting to import into my cad software so I can trace and print as a template for making my own widebody 1:24 stazza. Will chuck up a wee thread for it if there's any interest and it works out.

Thanks team

Man you have fucking killed this build. Well done.

Side profile is awesome