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lowlancer

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Posts posted by lowlancer

  1. Its like a compromise between a mum and a dad car.

     

    Congrats on the baby.

     

    I don't know what either of those are, but I'm guessing you're not a fan? They look to be pretty rapid at least, ie: would hose pretty much everything covered so far. Mechanical LSD rear too so not the usual electronic trickery

  2. So the forks for my bike have always been a bit shit - I ground too much steel off when I was prepping them for coating, so they look a bit average compared to the rest of the bike.

     

    What's the word on replacing them? Pretty keen on some straight forks, quite like the look. Assume i need to know the OD size? Does the actual tube part need to be the same length, and if not, I assume I will need a new head set? 

  3. Looks great man good job. I have respect for the ability to scratch (sorta) build stuff like this.

     

    My one issue would be the obsession with the unkempt look with these sorts of projects? I think a bit of paint would be sweet. I'm gonna guess it's to do with more focus on getting them running and then is kinda forgotten/too hard basket

  4. Sweet, yeah was doing that, seemed kinda dodgy.

    I've only measured to centre of the bigger chainring, which is 50mm - could be more or less by a couple mm as it's warped.

    Realised that it's was kinda pointless to measure the rear because I'm gonna replace the freewheel anyway - will just space it out to match the new chainring/crank that KIRK has sent me.

    Won't be doing fuck all for awhile as I've got a shit ton on my plate, but will keep y'all updated. Was considering going fixed but cbf with the whole dishing thing on the rear wheel that seems to be required, plus I wanna be riding this asap and not eating shit/buying more stuff.

    Appreciate the advice etc gents

  5. Has no skewer, and yeah, keen on internal by the sounds, as external are generally for vertical dropouts with "lawyer lips"?

    Chain ring is one with the RHS crank, as in the crank is pressed into it. Be odd not to replace both I guess. Measured by chainring spacing, is about 50mm from centre of frame. Easier to work with that than try fuck about with chainring location and bottom bracket - don't really wanna take it beyond 50mm anyway.

    Has anyone done sheldon's method of spreading the frame/rear dropouts? Would 15mm be too much to spread them out? Eg: 7.5mm each rear dropout/triangle frame bit. Rear wheel arrangement is 130mm, versus my frame being 115mm. However, this may change when I get round to sussing a proper freewheel hu, though haven't looked into that really.

  6. So this is turning into lowlancer asks gay questions thread.

    I need a new chain ring/crank assembly cos mine is bent to fuck (like about 4mm out) and it's a cunt for chain alignment, obv.

    What do I need to look for in regards to replacement? It's a three piece, so I don't beed the bottom bracket, just the ring and the cranks, right?

    Also, rear axle keeps bending. Chain is relatively aligned so I don't think it's that (just enough out to keep jumping off). In fact, it may be the other way around, as the rear sprocket wobbles with the axle being so bent. Can I get something to replace that is a bit tougher?

    So frustrating, rides beautifully for about 5 minutes then turns to shit.

  7. Yeah I get it, all g.

    But chuck ap ic up just in case I'm barking up le wrong tree.

    Stuck it all back together and went for a hoon before. Fuck single chain line with no shit attached is efficient as balls, cranks up hills easy as. Was a bit rattly though and chain dropped off going over rough stz.

  8. freewheel-vs-k7.jpg

    Is same as one on left except freewheel is on there. I was hoping to just get cogs to fit that freewheel so I could have like 3 on there for different stz.

    Need freewheel removal tool?

    Edit: see how the skewer/axle comes a mile out past the bearing? Seems like that would put huge load on it... thinking that's why mine has bent?

    • Like 1
  9. Yeah is exactly that - no spline, just thread. My bad if I explained it wrong. Sheldon has a comparison page of the two styles, I just used what was there as frame of reference.

    It probably does come off, unsure how though as I don't have the tool. It adjusts play in the bearings too though, so dunno if I can just lose it and replace it in any case? I wonder whether I can just take it off somehow and do as you did.

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