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Posts posted by Snoozin
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I'm taking the KP, gave no real thought to a wider OS presence.
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KP61 Hero Contributor-6-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr
Still running well, clean sheeted it's first WOF after cert and generally been relatively minimal, but happy motoring.
No 13's on it because, I'm lazy. And it drives really nicely on these, but the 13s will find their way back on soon.
I've had the paint (that was done in 2007) colour sanded and corrected and it looks ridiculously good. This shot doesn't really shot it, but it's flat, glossy and much more vibrant. All I have to do now is look after it!
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10 hours ago, dabuzz said:
I just wonder how many places its advertised, might not have the reach it needs to gain multiple interested parties if only on one site based in a country who generally dont give a shite about them.
Collecting Cars has pretty wild reach, it's like Bring A Trailer in that it's only for vetted vehicles, that are properly shot and marketed. Top bidder seems to be coming from Aus atm.
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8 hours ago, Bling said:
We can agree to disagree. What length / spec springs do you have in the starlet? Project photos don't work now for me to look. But I assume you don't have keeper springs if you have the most suitable springs. I can't remember if FA ones are 150mm or 200mm (the normal ones MRP supply). How did you determine platform height if adjusting it is such a no no? Pretty sure you would have used the platform to provide some of the height setting for your car. The whole point of adjustable platform is that you can have the springs setup as needed, then move change the car height independently. Multiple ways to lower a car, none of which make the other obsolete. If you don't want to make use of the platform adjustment, you wouldn't buy suspension with it one would assume. To me the body adjustable platform is just another lever you can pull to get the required results.
5kg Swift springs in the front, I forget the length, no keepers as they are quite a long, soft spring. Fortune Auto offered me a range of insert lengths with varying stroke etc, so I was able to work out where it needed to be to get enough droop, a good ride height and a good amount of bump travel. Bonus for being relatively compliant in a light car. I have used the length to even the ride height, but if I wanted to go lower I can drop the spring platform and still retain captive springs at this stage and not compromise bump travel.
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You basically said why it's a bad idea in your reply "if you have a suitable main spring and keeper." Ergo, the platform and vehicle ride height is set via suitable spring.
Engineering your own solution is even more of an incentive to get it right, when you order a Fortune Auto setup for example, you have a choice of spring rates and lengths.
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On 17/09/2022 at 11:34, Bling said:
Why shouldn't you be adjusting the height by moving the whole body? Seems like the logical way to me. Spring perch is only useful to setting preload and the likes.
Height is set by spring length. When you think about it, platform height is influencing the length of your spring, the most common issues that occur when setting up a strut by adjusting height only using the bottom clevis is having a wheel that bottoms out in the arch before the shock hits its bump stop, as well as often minimal droop. You ideally want a main spring and a tender/keeper to fine tune your ride height and droop.
https://mcasuspension.com/spring-seat-adjustment-method/
https://mcasuspension.com/how-to-adjust-ride-height/
MCA explain it more eloquently than I ever could.
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I would fill it, sand it, and flock it if I was wanting to do something like this on a budget. Bonus is, it would be consistent with the vibe of your car I think.
Re-covering in vinyl always looks cack IMO, the corners are never as sharp, it never fits properly again as the vinyl adds significant thickness to the part.
19 hours ago, GARDRB said:Is $2000 an exaggeration or for realsies, I always assumed it would be around $1000 which i was comfortable with, but for $2000 i'd rather get other things for the car
It's real, it was going to be over 1k just to do the dash pad on the KP.
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16 hours ago, DriveBy said:
Thanks. I really want to avoid going the cert route if possible.
I was about to say but DB8 did.... cert required for the circlip too!
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On 12/08/2022 at 21:47, oldrx7 said:
Swoon
seems like an Ok price for a dealer too - $80k
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/mazda/rx3/listing/3723948347
That's nice, weird plate choice though.... it's about 5 years earlier than the car, but only nerds like me would note a detail like that I guess.
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In the past, Stocks converted a fork type to eye type for me.
If you're not in a hurry I'll have some Ohlins coilovers available sometime near the end of october, though.
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On 14/07/2022 at 11:55, oldrx7 said:Plastered these over FB last week but if you haven't seen:
Was a hamilton / tauranga rotary cruise meet up at Te Poi Tavern last weekend. Good chance to test out my new camera and 50mm lense
Sorry, not a nitpick, but are you using a CPL (circular polarising) filter? It looks like you may not be - grab one, it will change your life!
A selection of rotaries, I haven't shot one in a while!
1980 Mooncraft MCS (11)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr
RE Amemiya GT300 Mazda RX7-694-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr
REunion 2018-1367 by Richard Opie, on Flickr
WTAC Andy Duffin RX7 20B-270 by Richard Opie, on Flickr
REunion 2017Sunday-700 by Richard Opie, on Flickr
VW Beetle 12A Rotary-49-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr
IMG_7018 by Richard Opie, on Flickr
IMG_1459 by Richard Opie, on Flickr
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11 hours ago, Roman said:
holy shit haha.
that's outrageously expensive.
Is there anything special about it to justify the price?
Vintage TRD = expensive, no matter what part it is.
Old/period aftermarket stuff is reaching obscene prices, even for 90s gear... just catching up to the Euro and USA classic bits I guess.
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On 11/07/2022 at 20:50, ajg193 said:
This could be of interest to you EDIT: Just saw price, yeah nah not of interest to anyone
I was keener than mustard, but asked the seller if they had 6 I could buy at that price for a group deal, and when they responded in the negative, I exclaimed "WELL GOOD DAY TO YOU, SIR," and closed my browser in a huff!
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You can just buy a supplementary plate for $30 from Licensys, this is exactly why they offer them. Legal beagle and all.
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I think tying it into the seats is the key aspect to be honest.
What seats have you got?
Integra Type R trims/seats are a good example - they use the Recaro seat fabric insert on the door trims also, so I think if you had black microsuede seats or something, pull that fabric or something similar to it across to your door trims.
Alternatively, retrim the seat centres to match your door card fabric choice too, I wouldn't have done one of the other, it was always going to be a decision I made based on the whole interior.
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2 hours ago, Roman said:
Is there any advantage over all of this instead of just buying a GR Yaris?
Apart from cost I'm guessing
Is that one 4WD?The car was acquired already built and never run in anger, AP4 rely on a whole lot of control/compliant chassis items to meet regulations. So the initial investment and specialist fabrication was already completed on that car, they look like production shells but they're not.
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7 minutes ago, xsspeed said:
seems too much of a coincidence, is that the 3pot HRE was building?
No, it's literally been lifted out of a road car and popped in.
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On 03/07/2022 at 16:06, mjrstar said:
header progress is looking grand.
Speaking of 20v, has anyone seen the 4age 20v turbo GR yaris rally car that Hayden Mckenzie has hidden away?
I have nothing to add other than have you considered a 2zz or 20v turbo?
4AG has been consigned to the bin on this car. Now has GR 3-pot in it, although not ready yet.
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1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (167)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr
Another view, you'd think for a joker who takes photos I'd get it right, but nope.
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1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (178)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr
Kept mine subtle, and classic. Originally my trims extended over the tops of the doors but I choce to delete that trim and go with painted tops, it's a styling cue that's lost to the sands of time now I think. The idea was to emulate something that might have been a top level trim spec, and I drew inspiration from Singer and the current crop of 'restomod' stuff that's around these days to choose my textures. The design of the insert however, fairly closely replicates a factory KP door trim, exception in my case being I have continued that line through to the rear door cards too. Lots of people have said "shit the interior looks amazing for its age," so I'm assuming they think it's OEM which is a great success in my eyes
Tartans, houndstooth etc are all fairly timeless texture/fabric options and will look great in years to come I think. Added bonus of being a deluxe period sort of option for the car.
Novelty prints and shit are cool now but 5 years later on you wanna be sure you like looking at it....
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Project Binky levels of bracketry there, my good man!
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Driveshaft driven alternator?
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I've got some unused Toyota Cares stickers, plus some circle ones that say 'Think Toyota'
4&r nats
in General Car Chat
Posted
When isnt building cars about money?