Bullitt

Very nice. Totally different car to what they usually are

AFAIK 160J motors are the same as 1600SSS motors anyway. 1600 makes 109hp and 160j only makes 105 but think thats only down to flat top sus instead of round tops and maybe some other emissions stuff

Dont turbo it. Same advice I give to everyone Work the 2 litre. Will give you more than enough power in a car that I cant imagine is that heavy and itll sound far nicer

Major difference between a 140J and a 160J is the number of doors Though there is a 160J sedan in theory but ive never seen one. 140Js also have different grilles and badges and live rear axles and different instrument clusters and different steering wheels and seats plus the motor stuff. No problem getting it going for SFOS, wont be finished by then but should be on the road well before that. Hoepfully yours is going again by then too

How exactly does that work. Theres just a law saying your windows must let at least 35% light though so if it was darker itd fail More detail please

AFAIK (sure Kyteler will correct me ) Its a Sunny Excellent which is basically a 120Y coupe with different tail lights. JDM only. Never seen one in real life. Comes with factory L14. The other pic of the red J from the front is taken at the same time so you can see part of the front of it. Heres another one

Yeah Im gonna keep it silver Ive got no problem with this turning into a picture thread, heres some more (ive got more but these are the ones ive got online already) I Love this wagon, good luck finding one though

Its currently entirely stock except for the two hotwires ive put on the drivers side (I have three more in the shed) Its got an L16 with twin flattop SU's I wont be changing anything that I cant put back, dont want to hack it around cause 160Js in this state are pretty rare now. Will be keeping it L series but will go bigger and make it pretty hot. That probably wont be till next year though. Just gonna get it on the road pretty much how it is for now then I can start modifying it

Heres what my project looks like I only bought it in march this year and other than cleaning off the 7 years of dust from sitting in a barn I havnt done much on it Couldnt be bothered putting the other mags on Check out the positive camber Hopefully back on the road in the next few months, once I start it wont be too bad, basically only needs painting and reassembled. At the moment its a case of time and money to do it, whats new there Discussion Thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/18163-bullitts-160j/?hl=160j

There is the odd honda person on here, we just keep quiet about it due to the completely incorrect biased views held by many people on this board. Youve came to the correct conclusion, albeit for slightly the wrong reasons As said above they are still mounted the same way as most other FWD motors they just spin the opposite direction. The F20C from the S2000 spins the normal direction however so even if you could mount the B16A to it, it would still do you no more good than using a regular RWD gearbox from a supra or whatever. I know plenty of people who have looked into it and I dont know anyone who has even got to the point of trying to build one, let alone actually making it work. No factory honda motors have 135hp either. The ZC which is the 1.6 DOHC motor makes 130hp in its top black top form and less in the gold top. The B16A DOHC VTEC makes 160 in NZ New or EF civic/CRX/DA Teg or 170 in EGCivic/CRX/EKcivic form. You shoudnt be anti a Honda owner, you never know what they have in their garage

If it costs that much to get them compressed why do people bother? Ive bought second hand Jamex springs for less than that before

Yeah I agree regarding interior mods. Heres a set of factory nissan race seats from the 70s (so Ive been told at least). Good luck finding anything similar though

I recommend mirrors on the guards. Just about all Jap cars from the 70s suit them. Its what Im doing with my car

Minis dont have a timing belt, they have a timing chain. And they dont wear in, they should be perfect from when theyre first put on. Has the motor been rebuilt lately? Cause if not that explanation makes even less sense

A stock 1275 out of a 1300 or allegro etc is worth basically nothing. Putting it in depends on how much you do yourself but even paying for it wont be that expensive, its only a couple hours work. Brakes ive never tried to buy, I guess $500 ??? probably a fair bit of demand For someone whos mentioned your budget in the other threads youve got some unrealistic dreams. If you cant afford a set of carbs you cant afford engine conversions

hmm, that line doesnt work in NZ (or any country that drives on the right side of the road) My datsun box is up to the left so it kinda works

Whats wrong with your hoodlining? Everyone Ive ever seen has looked the same, white with yellow patches where the tar that holds it up has soaked through. I wouldnt bother changing it, I agree its bound to be expensive and hoodlining is always a bitch to change, no matter what the car

there are two other ways take it to somewhere like beaurepairs and theyll be able to get it off, though will probably charge like a wounded bull for no apparent reason Ive also hear a rumour of getting a socket thats marginally too big and glueing it onto the lock nut. Havnt tried it and it probably wouldnt work unless it was already pretty loose but anyway

Yeah I was meaning in an extreme example. At the moment its probably more like driving with your foot slightly on the clutch. If you drive it lighlty itll be ok but if you load it up by being stuck in traffic or launching hard or putting your foot down on the open road or anything itll start to slip

Itll crunch with a worn thrust bearing or similar. With a slipping clutch its the exact opposite, itd mean youd be able to change gear without even engaging the clutch

The wheel I had didnt have a separate bosskit, it was all one unit, was a period one and I think I paid $150 for it in brand new condition. I wouldnt bother with a quick shifter, the gearshift is something you get used to, pretty much all old cars are the same. Quickshifters are pretty hard on parts of the gearbox too, itll wear out quicker. If you want you could cut the gearleaver down abit depending on where you find it comfortable, I never bothered. Inidividual engine mods on their own wont get you huge increases. Youll get good percentage gains but going from 45hp to 50 despite being over 10% will barely be noticable. To get a really fast mini youll need to rebuild the motor and do alot of things, pretty much minimum of 1275cc or bigger, cams, carbs, exhaust, headers and you wont do that for $900 unless you can do it all yourself and even then itll be a push. What are you looking for out of it? If its just a cheap old car you want to go fast in a straight line there are better starting cars, if so just tidy it up and leave it while you save for something better. Just remember if you perservere with it youll spend thousands and still have a relatively slow car Oh and if you think thats dear for a steering wheel I paid $470 for the one on my honda, and that was still less than retail

My suggestions would be most things will cost more than that, youd be better off putting that $200 towards a set of twin carbs or a decent exhaust or something rather than wasting it on crap from repco. Though I do agree with the painted roof. Cosmetically just keep an eye out in the buy sell for a cheap set of 10" mags. 12s are pretty hard to find cheaply (my 1275GT needed 12s to clear the brakes so I know) and anything larger will need expensive tyres (try finding a low profile 13" ) Next thing I would look at doing is a decent smaller steering wheel, pretty much all standard ones are like a bus, thatll improve the car more than any other mod. Next id get into motor work. You can pick up 1275cc motors out of 1300s etc pretty cheaply which will make a big difference, Then id look at a set of extractors and a decent exhaust. 1 7/8" press bent will probably be the best comprimise of performance and price. Ive always been a fan of twin carbs they just go better once theyre setup properly and contrary to alot of rumors dont go out of tune any quicker than a single. Dont worry about webbers or anything cause a sidedraught needs firewall mods to fit and a downdraught will offer worse performance than SU's. I wouldnt go too hard on the motor without looking at the brakes though. The drums are pretty pathetic. Front discs are highly reccomended, though dont worry about cooper ones theyre only marginally better than drums. You need Cooper S or 1275GT (needs 12" wheels unless you reduce them in size) or there are a few other alternatives). So summing up for $200 the first thing Id be looking for would be a smaller steering wheel (smaller the better, yours is so large thats why its so light, mine was 12" which loads it up nicely) HTH

Alot. It would cost a fortune to make a mini keep up with a 4age starlet which isnt an expensive conversion. If you want more than about a 17 sec 1/4 be prepared to spend big money. Whats your budget/goal? My mini cost about 10 grand all up and would have surprised most starlets but still wouldnt have even tried against a 4age the one i saw wasnt a 4age. it was out of one of them turbo starlets. i saw one posted else where about a Lexus v8 in one. it did like 14 secs completly stock http://www.zcars.org.uk/mini/mini-single.htm - Motorbike engines http://www.members.optushome.com.au/minigt/ - Starlet GT. I meant a 4age starlet not a 4age mini. Only conversions ive seen in Minis are VTEC, GT starlet, vauxhall, ford zetec, various v8s. None of which would be cheap

Alot. It would cost a fortune to make a mini keep up with a 4age starlet which isnt an expensive conversion. If you want more than about a 17 sec 1/4 be prepared to spend big money. Whats your budget/goal? My mini cost about 10 grand all up and would have surprised most starlets but still wouldnt have even tried against a 4age

Im guessing cars with leaf springs fall into the same rules as coils in that no matter how much you lower it your supposed to have 35mm of suspension travel. If you lower it 3" and your on the bump stops I guess youd fail on that before you even got into the legality of 3" blocks