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Did a quite sketchup concept for the radiator spacer/intercooler mount. It's just a concept - I didn't measure anything yet, but I think it should work. All sorts of different options for holes in the plates as well. Radiator will mount to the back, the intercooler on the inside and the front lip is for the oil cooler. the front of the frame will bolt to the radiator supports using the original mounting points.

So I pulled my old (aftermarket) fuse box out to see how it has been hold up since @slacker.cam and I replaced it about 8 years ago. It did not look good. Heaps of wires falling out of the crimps. So I fixed it up. Just need to get some of that braided wire cover stuff to finish it up. I also bought a new intercooler. Thought it was gonna fit quite easily but after checking I'm not so sure. Considering I gain something like 130mm of room between the radiator mounts and engine with the new block, I'll probably make up a frame to mount the radiator back towards the engine about 80-85mm. I should be able to make something that mounts to the standard radiator mounts, and holds the rad, i/c and the oil cooler. Otherwise I'm gonna end up doing a whole lot more cutting to the front of the car and, if anything, I want to patch up the cuts that have already been made. Watch this space for frame thinking. Old v. new - that old vr4 cooler has seen better days since coming out of the factory 30+ years ago. Otherwise, I decided to pull apart my old engine to have a look. I am no expert but friends tell me that it's looking a bit worn, a bit too worn for an engine that probably saw max 15,000km. Also there was some oil inside the inlet manifold on runners 2 and 3 which is a bit suspect. Makes me happier to be retiring this engine.

@cletus awesome! Thanks. And @KKtrips I totally missed your reply, thanks too!

That @cletus About the cage, if the car is currently certed for whats in there, I should not have to make any changes to it, right?

Gearbox mounting. With my new engine swap, it uses the same factory engine mounts but it brings the gearbox 11mm closer to the front of the car. The gearbox has a plate that bolts to it (with 2 bolts) and then mounts to the x-member with a single centre bolt. It's the primer part in the following image: To keep from modding the x-member, most people just shift the mounting holes on this plate 11mm forward and weld up the old ones. An example shown in the next pic: Is this an okay approach for this, or should an entirely new plate be made? @cletus would appreciate your input. Also, concerning old certs. My car is currently certed for a number of things, including a half-cage (with front side intrusion bars) based on the old main hoop diameter. Some things need updating - i.e. new engine, different rear brakes, but some are the same. Do the old certed things that stay the same need to be recertified?

I want to say that I've really got on with this, but mostly I've just taken things apart. The engine is out, most of the panels are off (need help to get the glass out), and I have a huge pile of stuff that needs blasting and painting/powder coating/nickle coating. Can't really do any of that at the moment so I'm at a bit of a stand still. Otherwise I've done a bunch of wiring cleanups, built this box to move the headlight and fan relays into the cabin. Ran out of solder before I could finish tidying up the standard fuse box. And I had the bumpers reconditioned. The current plan is to get on with the panel beating. This is not something I can do myself so I'll be looking for a decent place in Auckland to have this done. Not sure if I will have them paint the car also - it's staying the same yellow/black with pinstripes - will have to see. Any suggestions here? Before I can do that there are a few things I need to sort: - remove glass - weld up some holes in the floorpan from teenage drilling - get a new intercooler and mount it. the current evo 0 one is toast and anything new is not going to mount the same. Engine wise, my initial plan was to rebuild the G161z with some more headwork, better cam, bigger valves. That will kind of get it close to its limit, and I want something most reliable. Also things like tensioners are not easy to come by these days. Fortunately I have a 4ZE1 (2.6) and recently stumbled across a 4ZD1 (2.3) which I will get when we're in Level 2. Assuming the block is okay, I will probably go with the D1, as it has a lot more meat between the bores and is a square engine (90x90), so should be a bit nicer to drive. You only lose 10hp downsizing from the 2.6, so I'm okay with that. The plan is to hang an EFR6758 off the side, which isn't the biggest turbo but I don't want a drag monster that breaks your neck at 4000rpm. It'll also get forged internals and the classic headwork. Not a great update, but figured I'd get something down.

@kpr Thanks. It looks like the current version are the ID1050x.

Thanks @kpr - do you agree with roman concerning running the 1000cc injectors, even on my little 1.9 sohc 8v engine? I did a rough calculation on the injector dynamics website and at 8000rpm on 20psi it'll only be like 50% duty cycle. And @roman, those injectors look better than most others I've looked at. Better off buying the best, right? Cheers for the advice guys.

I plan to continue to use my Link g3 but with g4 firmware. Not sure if this is too old in terms of what you're saying?

To add, are you saying that new injectors are way better than old ones at managing their fuel use? I recall that people used to say that you shouldn't use too large injectors, something about optimal duty cycle. Sorry, I really don't know much about this stuff!

Thanks. That helps. I guess my concern was that newer injectors don't seem to have that seal at the rail end (not the o-ring, you can see it in my pic). And the seal cushion thing at the manifold end, mine are perished so I need to find a replacement set. Next question then. When drilling out the rail, does the injector need to bottom out against it or will the friction of the o-ring pull the injector into a good seal with the manifold?

I'm trying to buy new injectors but appear to have no idea what I'm doing. I'm replacing low impedance 510cc Evo III injectors with some slightly larger volume high impedance ones, but can't figure out if I'm looking at the right thing. These are my current injectors: https://i.imgur.com/VaoUmLE.jpg From what I've read they are EV1 type. If I buy any other EV1 type, should I assume that they will be the same dimensions? When I search for EV1 injectors, I get all sorts of different looking things. Also, notice the two black seal/ring things? One butts it up against the fuel rail, and the other at the port on the manifold. Looking at other Evo injectors, I don't see any using the seal cushion at the manifold side (mine were installed by a speed shop, I assume they added them in?). Are these something I need to buy (old ones are a bit shagged)? They appear to be slightly tapered from 15mm-14mm, but it's hard to measure a squishy thing. Any help is appreciated here! Cheers

It's been 2290 days since my last update and it seems that all my images have been deleted by greedy internet barons. Here's a new one from the weekend. Regular programming to continue shortly.

For sale people http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=587284079

I think I first want to try push in the inner skin. I reckon it'll be all good like that. If anything will only need to push the guards out a few mm.

I'm trying to achieve more that just folding the lips under, will I be able to push the metal out at all?

Cheers man, where are you located? I'm sure I can figure it out.

My tyres are sitting just a tad too close to (read: pretty much on) the rear guards. Not good stuff. Let me know!

When I bought some I got them from here: http://www.thezstore.com/

Hey guys, have just updated the main post with some more information. We're hoping to donate any profits we make to an appropriate charity for Christmas, so come along and bring your mates and an empty stomach!

I've almost rewired everything under the dash. It's taking a while and my soldering is improving vastly, but it's all going well and I've probably removed a few kgs of wiring. - Installed my slotted ball joints yesterday. They're used to adjust the camber - unfortunately at maximum negative camber they foul on the control arm where it starts sloping up. I'm going to need to smash them with a hammer or weld in a flat section. Pictorial description of problem.

I meant for bleeding the master cylinder. There is a single outlet for the rear (closest to the pedal) and two up the front for the L/R front brakes.

Any particular order?

Should I take all the lines off at once? Or one at a time?

Yeah, I'm sure they are correct, could not fit any other way. I always thought you bled starting from the furthest away brake first. So I started from the rear left. Hoses are all new. There is pressure to the front, but not consistent. What is the pressure cup? Easiest technique for this?