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Who makes them in NZ? I spoke with Altra9 (Aus) and they don't do Hilux axles.

Interesting. I assume that the gate powergrip clamps have some kind of adhesive in them. I wonder how that would react to the brake fluid if any managed to sneak around. It's not pressurised, though, so should be okay.

Yeah, it's more for looks than anything else.

I am keen to run my master cylinder to a remote reservoir with braided lines. The problem is that there are no threads in the master cylinder inlet, only these clamp on plastic things. What's the best way to adapt this to braided lines that I can thread in to the reservoir? My two thoughts have been using some kind of rubber bung and a push in adapter that is threaded on the other end, or welding on something threaded but was advised not to weld the master cylinder as it might warp.

*groan* I wonder then, either my axles have less material on the gusset, it's been machined down to fit the disc, or the disc has been machined out to fit - or a combo of all of this. Need to pull it apart and look. This is starting to feel too hard! Maybe I should just shell out for the full floating kit.

I thought they were from an RN40, but I don't remember. The diff came from the deep south about 15 years ago, paid squat for it! Do you know the length of the early KUN axles? Not sure on the brakes. I've not seen AE92 ones. Here's what I have:

Here's some pics, my brake hub register is different to both of the ones your posted. You can also see where they were welded and redrilled - originally they were 5 stud. The housing is the welded type. It's difficult - I don't think the wreckers are going to just let me pull out a bunch of axles! Might just look for KUN ones. Yep @cletus, I've factored that in. Rear calipers all seem to have massive handbrake mechanisms, or have really small pads. I think I can make the AE101 work by shifting it and mounting the coilover above it so it the turret give it the necessary clearance. Any suggestions on low pro calipers that still have a decent pad size?

I need to run 4x100. Currently I have AE101 discs and calipers on the axles/housing which I have been running for years (rotor behind WMS). Not only am I wanting to shorten the axles/housing, but I'm also changing to coilover from coil/spring, and to 4 link from a 3 link ladder bar setup. Considering all this together is why I considered starting from scratch! I'd like to keep the brake setup though, it works well.

I want to go down to around 1350-1360 width.

Yeah, you're right. I need to pull my axle out again and measure it up. I have found some axles such as this: https://www.nitro-gear.com/Toyota-8-8-4-Nitro-Chromoly-CTL-Axle-p/axt34060.htm But even cut down to the narrowest I don't think will be short enough. That's good to know about the spigot - I thought they were necessary for ensuring strength.

I did initially when I was looking for something that was the correct centrebore. At this point I may as well just buy some blanks with extra long spines that can be cut down. Then I can just machine down the centrebore and be done with it. I'll have another look.

Yep, mine is the one with the weld down the centre. It's starting to feel like with the work I will have to do I may as well start again with a Borgwarner or something, as they have heaps of drop in aftermarket heads and probably a lack of annoying axle tapers.

I don't think so. I'm trying to shorten the diff and the space that the adapter would take up would mean I need to go in even further. Is there a KUN equivalent of a Hiace? There are heaps of them at wreckers.

Grabbed an EK cluster. Turns out the tacho is also an air core but has a microcontroller integrated on the circuit board. It still takes oldschool inputs but doesn't have the potentiometer that I believe the EG has. Back to pick a part again I guess!

Wow! Thanks @johnny.race So it's not quite as easy as I had been told. My current diff is one of the 1410mm wide ones. I'm essentially looking for axles that are the splines plus the tapered area longer, so I can cut it all off and respline at my required length. Do you think there is enough material in the mounting face centre to machine a 6 stud down to 68.3mm from the stock 101.6mm? As I mentioned above, my rotors are currently mounted behind the flange face. I need to pull them off and see how this was achieved as I didn't do it personally. Could be some machine trickery behind there. Is there any reason not to just grab an entire 6 stud hiace housing and axles then, if they are more butty? Will my existing hilux diff head work with this?

I've heard this. Any ideas which ones? There are 5 stud 2WD and 6 stud 4X4 Hiaces. Hard to get a wrecker to go out and measure the wms to wms for me! That's good to know that people use them. Keen to know about that back side machining too.

Hey all, My search for long toyota G-series axles has led me find that the longest ones come from 4x4s like a Surf. I should be able to swap from 6 stud to 4 stud without too many problems, but the issue is that they have a 101.6mm centrebore which is way too large. Does anyone have any experience in machining this down? I have my discs mounted behind the WMS so I am only concerned with getting the wheels on. Cheers

Ah yeah, that makes trying to swap a speedo circuit/unit into an older gauge face/cluster a bit harder, as you'd still have to find a way to drive the trip meters.

I will probably do this. But I know others who are still running points/etc that might like one, was hoping I could develop something for them too. I guess I could try and use the speedo too. What did you do about the odometer for the speedo? The stock one is mechanical and I guess is needed for a WOF.

This looks like it could help me, especially if the the EG and EK tacho units are the same. https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/eg-civic-tachometer-repair-3336440/

The ali one had a pot?

Based on that image then, that might work well enough for me. I wonder if there are any other ways I can calibrate the tacho without using an ECU?

That sounds ok, unless it's always 300rpm less!

A follow on question, how accurate are tachos? Obviously your eyes can't actually see micro variations in rpm and translate that to a number, but how close is close? I found this EK Civic tacho is is pretty darn close. I'd hazard a guess that if I used this unit it would not be that noticeable. I laid it over the Gemini one.

Thanks, this looks interesting. I will be driving it from my Link, but I was hoping to create something that might also work for people who are still running the stock dizzy or a different ECU.