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Apart from the wheels, what other items do the new certs have photos of?

Yeah, I read the Accord Euro R ones are pretty decent.

Does this help at all? https://rsmotorsport.com.au/files/Identifying_Toyota_Hilux.pdf

Now that the canal has been cleared, my overnight parts from Greece can finally get back on track.

Thanks man. He's out west so this should be good.

I think I like the idea of the 4 bolt back mount ones, rather than 3 side bolts. For mashing, etc

A colleague has a 205 gti with a busted starter. Can anyone recommend a new unit? Rock auto has them for about $120nzd, elsewhere they can go up to $500! Any suggestions? Cheers.

What year you thinking?

Cheers all. Might hit up Pick a Part on the weekend and see if there's anything I like the look of.

Are all pedals essentially the same? They are mostly 6 wire, right? If so, essentially I could just go to pick a part and grab any one that I liked the look of.

The VE pedal looks way easier to mount than the nissan one.

Thanks. I'll see what I can do.

Yeah, I'd be happy to buy the bosch stuff, just seeing if it's possible to keep the costs down. What are the ve commodore pedals like? As for the 350z stuff, it seems like it's only a hundred more to get new bosch stuff, warranty and all.

I'm looking at 65-70mm, or b there abouts. I do have to say that the bosch and 350z tbs look quite nice compared to some others :/

Hey all, I'm looking to purchase a drive by wire pedal assembly and throttle body. Just wondering about opinions on these options. Will be most probably using a link g4x fury. 350z pedal and tb, used at $350+gst - link lists this tb as one they "support" Bosch Motorsport pedal and tb, about $500+gst A mixture of the above? Or I can probably get a cheap pedal from something at pick a part. I've heard subarus are good, any other options? Cheers

Do you have any examples of this? Could that just be roll Cage foam?

Ah yep. I imagine even the b pillar would be within 300mm. There are a severe lack of new retro inspired buckets that look good.

I'm quite keen on these new Sparco Stradale seats for "oldschool aplications". Issue is that they have no head rest. Is this going to cause an issue? For reference, my current Racepro seats are 810mm on the F dimensions. Here's the only pic of them in a car (Datsun 510) that I can find:

Way off topic bro, this is not a v8, or a drag car, and it's GM man. Shieeet! I reckon I'm just going to go directly above and below the axle centre. The largest spread I can do at the diff without fouling on things. Then try get the IC around the flywheel on the anti-squat line with the arms as parallel as possible, potentially moving the upper chassis side down 2mm for every 1mm the lower arm goes up. If I keep enough holes either side, I should have enough room to tune it.

Yeah, I thought about it. Will look into that a bit more. Otherwise thanks everyone, I'm more confused about what to do now

Does the distance between the upper and lower arm make a difference? Or where they are in relation to the axle centre?

Ah right. And as the bars shorten it pulls that side of the diff in an arc towards the front of the car, effectively steering with the rear. I think I need to figure out my travel next - can't imagine it's heaps though! I'll check out the 3 link version.

Here's where I'm at... kinda. That's with parallel lower arms. Nothing there for the roll, I think I'm missing something in another tab. I'm using the the "4 link calculator with suspension travel" Excel 2007 one here: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/4-link-and-3-link-suspension-calculators.18592/

When I first got started with this, I measured how low the mount would need to be from the axle centre to make parallel lower arms that bolt directly into the stock chassis trailing arm mount - answer: it was MUCH lower than the 2.5" drop suggested in the Escort manual. More like 3.5-4" from the axle centre. I guess what I'm trying to say, is that I have plenty of room to slope down towards the diff if I'm remaking the mounts at both ends. I will also be developing this with the car in it's already lowered state, so it should stay pretty much where it is. Although I'm not sure why it's harder to run the lower bars up to the chassis, rather than parallel. Surely going up is better for clearance (assuming you making all the mounts in the locations you want). I need to do some more reading up about roll steer, etc. This setup will have a panhard rod. In the end, this is a street car and I'm more interested in putting down power out of corners on the back roads than doing a 10.

It's just an excel one that I found somewhere. Yeah, it seems like half the internet is saying, just put something together, it'll most probably work VS 1mm difference and there will be DRASTIC changes to the handling.