Sungai Sungai

On 03/09/2022 at 12:23, 13bridgeport said:

Any pics of them on your 9s? I've been looking 225 50 for 9s and 235 50 

nah sorry havent fitted them yet! still looking for somewhere to split and weld wheels for me locally.

i sourced some 225/40/14 Nankang NS-20 through magwarehouse, they were pretty pricey but will be certable on a 9 or 10 i believe. im keeping them aside for certs and inspections and will be running a 195 on my 9's until i need em.

On 14/08/2022 at 15:58, Snoozin said:

In the past, Stocks converted a fork type to eye type for me.

If you're not in a hurry I'll have some Ohlins coilovers available sometime near the end of october, though.

keen to hear more when youre ready to move them on 

Bumac engineering in hendo are currently redrilling some wire wheel knock off hubs for me and i'm trying to convince them to start splitting rims again; they did it up until a few years ago and still have all the necessary equipment. I'll keep you updated how it goes. My eyes are on this thread for another option too though.

probox is too expensive in manual form. i hope one day they get cheaper and can be considered a real shitbox

EU3 honda civic, the dash shifter feels pretty similar to a cheapo logitech sim rig shifter 

Fantastic shitbox of mine, was $1600 with a wof and reg, 1.7 litres of vtec boobaa and 5 gears of clutch dropping single spinning goodness. Can fold the back seats down and fit atleast 3 full sets of wheels and tyres in the back. There are atleast two more manual ones of these for sale in auckland for less than two and a half grand. Worst feature is the lack of footwell partitions so anything you put on the floor ends up under your feet under heavy braking. 

those camber plates are gorgeous, where do i cop some!? also this is one of the sickest car in the country man a thousand kudos to you

this car is redefining goez hard 4 wat it iz

Can anyone recommend a repair certifier in auckland or near auckland?

Can anyone recommend a repair certifier in auckland?

edit:oops sorry this should have gone in cert questions thread

So aside from relatively small things like some valvetrain noise that needs sorting this cars major downfall was the fact that the plates lapsed in 2017.
so compliance...
but to add to the process some more its been fitted with a w55 and a custom crossmember...
So Lvv certification....
and the nightmare begins!



after a lot of reading online and through the cert thread on here, and because the car was first registered in nz prior to 1990, i decided it was best to take it to a cert guy before i even go to see the compliance officer. But before that i needed a driveshaft hoop made by someone legit, as i already knew it was going to be an issue. So i took a hoon out to DKM Fabrication in Riverhead through the windies and they sorted it for me within the space of a day.

(Edit: I totally had a brain fart and didnt realise Cletus was a cert guy based in auckland) So next up went to see Scott at Fraser cars.  Dropped the car off to Beachhaven and took the ferry home.


Not long after i get home Scott gives me a call to say its done! so i go back to the ferry (i like being on the water what can i say?) and go to collect the car along with my brand spanking new rectification sheet (oh the joy).

But honestly he wasn't too harsh on me and had good reasons for all the things he wrote, most of which we cleared up with a quick chat/sending some emails of photos and receipts.


So the next day i took a quick trip to Pipeline and then to The Bolt Shop to get the bits i needed to reconnect the PCV, replace the brake booster pipe, replace the engine mount bolts and secure the hub adapter with a locnut.

then for item 11....


honestly it was way too loud for my taste before, i wanna hear those trumpets! that symphony! no need for too much growl and rasp.

Off to Woolf Mufflers cause id been told he was a good dude and figured it would be best if someone with a DB meter on hand was there. Got him to remake the tail section of the exhaust so i can keep that fart can for when i want it loud again at some point, if i ever do, and ended up replacing the mid section resonator with a coby about three times the size to help calm the rasp on decel.



ok so now the nightmare begins to unravel.
after some reading, and talking to the few people i know who have been through the process, i decided to take it to Seatbelt Specialists for compliance, under the impression that they were more reliable and open to discussion than VTNZ or VINZ.


a day later i get a call that "there are a few things that need to be done", my stomach turns. Not the dreaded repair certifier please god no.




i read down the list.
oh rack end, thats easy, headlight adjust easy, steering boot, easy, power-steering not working is just cause i have it turned down because its electric and i can do that so... easy....

REFER TO REPAIR CERT......

All because at some point in the cars life someone has applied some non factory black paint to some of the crossmember components. The last thing on the list "rust treatment" turned out to be cavity wax, the compliance officer couldn't even tell the difference. The evidence of repair around the latch is extremely minor and in a completely non structural part of the hatch.

So here i sit, just a man with a dwindling amount of money left to burn on this project and the looming beast that is the repair certifier. The only guy I've gotten through to so far berated me for referring to a Toyota Celica as a "classic car". "Thats not a classic car mate hahahah are you kidding me" he said. "yeah yeah i've been doing heaps of jappas like that lately i just did a 1989 nissan laurel thizmornin" he said. These statements don't inspire hope that he wont be as tough as he possibly can with me.

Please reach out if you know a repair certifier in Auckland or Hamilton that isn't booked out for the next two months and wont throw the book at me.

 

yeah it came with the bluetop and original t50, along with pretty much every factory part to return it to stock; and the engine bay has had no drilling or cutting and all the aftermarket parts have been fitted with brackets attached to original mounting locations  

the plan is to rebuild and mildly work the factory bluetop, or if its too far gone ill find a smallport redtop. either way definitely 16v. Im somewhat predicting that i may go down the whole expensive "period correct" rabbit hole with this car but we will see! 

oh and does anyone have experience with what off the shelf springs i can get for the rear for some slam? ive got a second set of front struts on the way to turn into coilovers

oh and dont worry im not driving on those factory shank and washer nuts, it was just a clearance test for the brakes and all.

more updates to come! lots of details about the motor thats in it that i need to document somewhere

ok ok ok i admit it, it only took me 72 hours of having the car home before i had three sets of wheels for it,

i have a problem clearly 

and the problem is guard gap (and a slow leak on one of these tyres)
 

Build Thread


discuss if ya want!

anybody in excess supply of w series speedo drives. 
Im gonna figure out the diff ratio and the current cog tomorrow.

oh and im on the search for a panelbeater with skills greater than mine to tackle some of this rust as i care about this car more than most ive owned (the rust isnt bad its just in tricky spots and i dont want to fuck it up)