GregT

The mysterious off idle hesitation in ours was fixed with a distributor rebuild. Incl the correct number of springs...

1 hour ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Tbh, i suspect its probably poo'd 

It was a cheapie from jaycar. Which is where ill grab another. Apparently being points, they really like a solid 6v to run.

I get my lead acid bike batteries from Don at Pit Lane out in the country. He's still got stock of genuine Yuasa.

A lot of those small Hondas have a charging system regulated by the draw of lights etc. They're weird.

Might find a blown bulb replacement sorts it.

Most of the dual voltage chargers simply switch in a resistance to drop the output as needed. I see a Utube vid of a 12v bulb being used as a resistance. Just try bulbs till you get an outut just over 6v, Watch and check to avoid overcharging.

I went from a Mach 3 Kawasaki to a Suzuki AC50. Got married and wanted cheap transport. The triple gave 8mpg on the road - and 12mpg on track.

Riding the 50 wide open everywhere meant you learned conservation of momentum and not to touch the brakes.

Mention of a possible Bradford sighting on Waiheke got my attention.  In the 70's the staff at Rex Russell Ltd in chch - wreckers of bikes and cars - built what became known as the Bradnaught. Basically they put Norton ES2 cylinders on a Bradford motor. It went worryingly well - too fast for the brakes IMO. It was the company hack around town for a while. Then it disappeared along with one of the staff. I was told he'd moved to his parents place on Waiheke and taken it with him.  Amazing if it's survived.

I've never seen a 50cc bigbore kit bigger than 65cc.. 

10 hours ago, ThePog said:

Unlike Marahau, Brightwater is living in the future, this isn't the 1950s.

I had an uncle who farmed there up to the 70's I think. Spent a couple of holidays there in the 60's

Chop strand is unpleasant to use. The bike/kart repacking mat is much nicer.

If you're still going to pack the muffler, rather than fiberglass try what I use on racebike mufflers.  Kart shops sell a muffler repack material which is a woven material in sheets about 500X500. It's quite thin so I think would fit between the perf tubes. I usually use stainless wire to hold it onto a perf core. It seems to have a long life in 4 strokes. The 2T karts saturate it in oil which is why they repack.

Have you got the cover for the cylinder head ?  That at least should be polished. It's the one thing that makes the ramair versions stand out.

Good recovery on both the problems. For some reason the X1/9's seem to have 2 or 3 jesus nuts. which if they come loose do serious damage. That shaft damage was most likely caused by the nut loosening. I found on ours the guy who fixed a rear suspension balljoint hadn't adequately tightened the nut on the end of the axle/hub carrier. Discovered it on a test drive and limped it back before anything major fell off. Wheel could go in and out 2 inches when i got back. Good design doesn't leave things up to how tight a nut is done up.

5 hours ago, igor said:

Is there any engineering benefit to the use of TTY bolts?

Not really - but the bean counters love them as you sell more parts.

1 minute ago, SOHC said:

The SC is the old 70s thing? I know where one of them is,the WR make over 60 HP

Yeah. There were only ever 2 or 3 SC's came to NZ. The guy in ChCh who owned one moved to West Australia and took his with him.

So is the WR based on the last of the air cooled YZ's ?

51 minutes ago, SOHC said:

My friend has this Yamaha WR500 for sale, I want

Is that the enduro version of the SC500 ?  The SC's make ridiculous amounts of torque - if you can master starting one.

56 minutes ago, SOHC said:

Did you ùse the gn250 rotor and attach the hub from the aermacchi?

No. unrivetted the Honda rotor hub and machined up a new hub with the right taper for the Macchi crank, The six buttonhead capscrews visible in the second pic hold the hub to the rotor.

I've used the GN ignition on several things. In the GN it triggers off a lump on the OD of the alternator rotor. I've done as in the pic several times on race motors. The alloy blade has a steel tip on it to trigger the pickup. By slotting the mounting holes it becomes adjustable. The early ignitions had a 7000rpm limiter. By reversing the 2 pickup wires you get about 15 deg of advance range - and no limiter.

Knew I had the pics somewhere. 250 Aermacchi motor with Honda alternator in place of the piss useless 6v generator.  I could also have triggered a GN250 ignition off the lump on the rotor - but left it with points as easier to repair in rural Italy.

One of my Aermacchi customers did the Moto Giro in Italy on a borrowed bike. Finished up carrying a car battery in a knapsack for 4 days. So when i built a 250 Macchi engine for him and a 250 Benelli engine for his mate so they could take their own bikes, i put Honda alternators on both. Parts as common as pigshit and about as cheap.

Can't see enough of that engine to pick what it is. If OE bits aren't available, what about a magdyno ?

I know a guy who swears by them. Brass or bronze bush would still be my favored method.

23 hours ago, sheepers said:

Today I made a shelf

I found that heavy duty moulded plastic trays - about 500X400X70 deep worked well as storage for that sort of thing. Pull them out to clean the benches as needed.

I remember going over the hill all year round on an SL350. Not a bad choice for the road over.  Never really struck any ice - but the fog was very bad at times. Funniest bit was I'd often pass Gavin Bain driving something exotic. Always passed him doing a wheelie. SL was quite good on the short straights between corners.

It's not optimum - but it does work.  The flat 6 won't have a lot of overlapping vacuum so distribution should be good enough. From experience with a 36/36 Weber on a hot 202, the volume of the main log of the manifold is fairly critical. Too small and the ends starve. Too big and response goes away.

17 minutes ago, Lord Gruntfuttock said:

I've got (counts on fingers) 5 BSAs (sort of, 3 are Dandys) and part of the attraction is that they don't make em any more. Like Datsuns.

Was excited to see they're making em again, but but disappointed in result. Hard to get right though.

A new Goldie with modern reliability would be sweet...

 

There was a British made one that lasted a month or so before the company dying. Nice frame, polished alloy tank, wire wheels - and a SR500 Yamaha motor. Don't think it ever reached production.

2 hours ago, SOHC said:

Also the reed block I will chop out the divider and make a carbon fiber single petal   

I wouldn't. One big reed has a lower natural frequency so will work slower. Carbon replacements for the OE reeds in the stock cage but with the edges of the framework radiused is a better way to go.

And 10mm lift on the exhaust.....What timing does that give you ?

It's about 50lb heavier than a real Gold Star. Makes about the same HP as a well tuned one where it should be making way more with that spec,

And yeah, Rudy's right. the visuals don't work.