Bearded Baldy

Found an alloyhead, c2 casting so a bit small on the chamber size but will cc it first and doublecheck. Pics once i collect.

Disappointed your not keeping the 6.... but v8s are fine i guess lol

Both. Early like mine are iron. They made half a dozen different versions of the alloyhead from 1980ish to 1990. I think it is something rediculous like 40kg weight difference in the heads by memory.

Yuck. Why would i want smooothness and easy starting? I am strictly in the no cert way of thinking.

I have taken it to 6k a few times and it does it well enough but throws the waterpump belt any higher than that. If i ever get to drive it regular again i will add a deflector pulley or change the brackets around. The best way to get them to rev is put the 200ci rods in them with special pistons, but acl stopped making the pistons a decade or so ago. There is one guy in oz who takes his to 7500 on the strip but he has many years and mega cash in his motor. Sounds horny as with triple webbers on it though.

Pretty much bang on there Cletus. Which is why i have gone for a vac sec instead of mech, aswell as the fact it cost a box of beers. I live 25km out of town so the 600 should give decent economy when cruising the open road while still giving enough fuel when enjoying a thrashing on the backroads. The 2 barrel 500 Holleys were designed for speedway cars as far as i know, fuel economy is not a factor for them nor is low rev driveability. If it was a 4barrel 500 i had on the car i would keep it, but it isn't. Had a 350 on it with the smaller cam and was a good match with the overall setup, couldn't supply enough air up top with the bigger cam. The 500 is better but still not right. Now the fact that a 2bbl 500 carb only flows 354cfm in 4bbl ratings, doesn't help matters. 4 bbl carbs have much smaller primaries than the 2bbls so cruising on primaries 'should' be more economical. While having superior flow up top. Would like to try a 465 or 570 out, but 600s have been proven to work time and again on these lumps, just have to decide how to mount it...

Finally got someone to say i am right. In writing!

Yeah nah. Once these old tractors start getting half decent cams and compression in them 600s are average sized. Plenty of the aussies are using 600s and 650s with no issue. The ideal size for what i have would be a 570 avenger but i got the 600 for a box so cheapness wins.

Alloyhead had quite a few different versions. C1 c2 c2a d e, and unmarked. Pretty much all different chambers, all about a third the weight of the ironhead. Decent aftermarket support for the alloyhead exists too.

Current intake of choice is Redline Torker 2 barrel with a 500 Holley on it. Have run a 350 before and it was at its limits with the smaller cam setup. Fuel supply is by a Facet solid state pump mounted by the tank. This is far far far from optimal with the 500. So i have decided to go big, have sourced another tank from a later model wagon that appears to be the right mounting. Will need to replace the intank pump with better one i.e walbro, Will make and fit new fuel main and return lines (no return line atm), adjustable regulator up the front to finish it off. I also have a 600cfm vacsec Holley here which would be ideal, but will need either an adaptor or new manifold. If i have to get a new manifold i would rather buy an Aussiespeed one, but that requires an alloyhead swap, which means i need to find the right head option.

Not on lpg anymore, should update thread with that detail aswell. Running a 2 barrel holley 500. Have a 600 4barrel here but havent decided whether or not to keep the ironhead or go alloyhead, different manifolds.

During the 4 speed swap decided i wanted to change to hydraulic clutch too. Problem being that from XC on the 6s had cable clutch. Good news is that there is a workable way using o.e spec parts. XB 6 cylinder 3 speed bellhousing. Need to open up the center by approx 4mm, just measure the gearbox front plate, mark the ball and go hard. Now it sits flat, only 3 of the 4 gearbox-bell bolts line up, bolt it tight, mark where you need the new hole, remove gearbox. Quick drill and tap and you are done. Will add what release bearing i used here* when i remember. ** part number GSB117 ** Unbolt cover plate on firewall and fit master cylinder. Fit XB slave cylinder. Remove cable clutch pedal from box and fit hydraulic pedal and clutch/brake shaft from a v8 box (or rarespares etc if cannot find new). Job done.

Had one of them off in 2008 as i had a prang and needed to beat it back into shape, was ok then. Scared to look now, it saw nearly a decade with me on the coast with no garage....

Found everything except the flywheel, also found a very rough xe xf center console.

Cheers Cletus, have threatened to sell it plenty of times, but have alot of memories attached to it, and my eldest would disown me if i sold it. Rear quarters are the worst and the base of the passengers b pillar is ugly as sin now too. Was very tidy until it got kicked out of the shed, now it really needs a respray all over. Still don't know if i will get a new vinyl roof or not.

At least yours is in a garage mate, mine has been stuck in the weather for a few years now. At least it isn't salty round here.

Yeah saw it on the Geek app and bought several. My cruiser needs one but the soot up the back doesn't stay gone for long enough.

Upgraded to a GS dash along the way too.

Scored a 3.45 lsd from a xh ute, cleaned it up, overhauled the calipers and bent up some new hardline. Been sitting on the bench over a year as i have been neglecting the projects for too long and getting sidetracked with new ones. Bench was clean when i finished the diff. I swear.

Anyway back on track. Once the cam was dialled in, rocker guides file fitted and beers drunk. It was time to drop the motor in and get to work on the exhaust. 2.5 inch with single muffler, up and over the diff and out in the o.g spot after years of bogandumping out the side. Tucked up nicely.

Best 'mod' so far.

Have picked up a few bonus spares over the years, a mint rear louvre, fairmont rear seats with armrest, various small chrome bits.

Cleaned up the ports some more while i was there. Tracked down a center console that was pretty rough, so recovered it in vinyl. Shifter hole looked pooze so grabbed a piece of alloy plate and polished it up.

Roughly xmas 2016 the motor came out again. I had managed to find a 4speed, so in the interests of going more sporty than cruisy, the old 6 was getting more go fast bits. Bigger bumpstick, again from kelfords. CAM LIFT: in 0.325 ex 0.327 NETT VALVE LIFT:in .553 ex .556 ADVERTISED d : in 274 ex 286 DURATION : in 230 ; ex 236 Over .5 inch of lift with these motors and the steel rockers tend to bind up, so an order to summit got me some roller rockers, studs and guide plates. Tracked down a company in hawkes bay who do billet flywheels for speedway 4.0l motors. Score. Fitted ring gear from an xe and drilled the mounting bolts out to 7/16, and it was good to go. 6.5kg instead of 13kg.