Vk304

Found rear seat and carpet etc

Went to jaycar and got a shift light, and a momentary button for launch control, so when it gets final tune that will be an option, drilled through the gear shift but doesn't interfere in the thread or how you put it on.. you do have to press it in fairly hard so wont hit it on accident shifting gears etc, both go through relays and fuses, i may change it to steering wheel maybe will see how it works.  

8 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

Am I dreaming or do doritos have the water pump run either clockwise or anticlockwise depending on which model.

 

I'm sure the pulley I machined for rx7 rally car crashing guy ran off the back of the belt, and he asked me to knurl it for extra grip. 

Also don't know hahaha, this is how it came to me and I've only had one other rotary car a rx8, but yea im pretty new to rotarys

On 20/04/2025 at 12:06, mjrstar said:

Are the front camber plates correctly installed? It seems weird that they are right in on the slots and the camber is near zero.

I was wondering if they were 180 degrees out, is the side to side centerline mean that you get a change in castor?

 

/ castor makes you faster. I added heaps to my racecar and it's great.

I'm not suure, I haven't had much to do with aligning, but that's how the shop put it? I might do some research on that, it needs to be re aligned anyways 

Also got a racetech linelock for drag butnouts etc to not smoke my rear brakes and i prefer mechnical things so no solenoid, it turned out to have bsp threads in it...... ?  So i had to get a bunch of adapters to make that work bsp to npt to brakeline fittings, ran the lines through a gromet hole and to the rear split into a m10x1.0 joiner.. the idea being it's fully removable... because it's not legal, but can remove handle to render it un operable

and got a front bumper to fix my cut up one, as well as a carpet and gear shifter surround and boot, little more tidy inside because street car? Bumper will have to wait till I paint the car someday because it's white... still looking for a reasonably priced dash facia...rear still needs something, yes my battery box is a sealed ammo box bolted to the floor lol

It's just as loud with the louvered core resonator, but not too loud? Lol and I did a fd reman altenator, because the 60 amp one was not cutting it at low revs with fan on etc... all I had to buy was a 90 amp fd rx7 altenator, from strange workshop about 300$, a ls plug kit- (ls, nissan, mazda- share the same style 2pin plug for Mitsubishi / hitachi alt )- from a aeroflow supplier- about 6$ and attach it to my wiring.

Drill my pulley out to 17mm, and space pulley out about 6mm ( i used a thin nut, dilled out to 17mm and the hex ground off- because im a hoarder...and it works)..  and now it charges 14 plus volts at idle. Not sure if the old altenator was bad or the demand was too great, but now it doesn't seem to have the same issues- stalling at lights etc...

Other than that they just bolt in to s4 housings...

Well that diddnt last long, and I had an exhaust leak apparently 

Checked last oil filter, clean no metal, just junk from cutting it open and a little silicone, plugs fouled but have new ones on the way.

Need bigger tyres 

Ok so went for another cert, because mine was from 2011 and was missing a bunch of details, whether it was different rules or things were changed- I dont know, but I have a few things to fix, it failed on power steering modified, and a fuel line rubbing, I fixed the fuel line in 5 minutes...

The rack that I modified to be depowered would not pass a cert without professional inspection by a third party and that was going to cost, I checked my parts in storage, and found that I actually had the whole powersteering setup bar the the rack, so I found a unmodified one in auckland at a reasonable price and got that.

To install it I had to weld a line that had the fitting cut off, and make a crank pulley spacer that accommodated the gilmer setup and pump pulley, I made a makeshift one to make it work and provide measurements for a new one to be made by cnc, aand have the recesses and all that cut into it. To provide a true centered pulley. 

Beck cnc ltd, reccomended by a friend, made the spacer for me and did a good job of it, it's tight and the belt is straight and true, all I had to do is drill the through holes ...I had to relocate the blow-off-valve to fit it in there ..

power steering is sorted now and asked the cert man if I needed to do an alignment report and he informed me I did....

I have solid engine mounts so I had to make the gearbox xmember solid too ...

And I hooked the reverse lights up to the gearbox switch...

Wow, that's a bit exessive, I diddnt realise this was going to be so involved, guess i'm just going to have to risk it 

On 31/12/2024 at 19:18, rotormotor said:

Very interested in the 2 step option and how that allsorts out.

I'm hesitant to use that, the final tune I could do it off the handbrake switch through a relay, but it's not great for the engine and will probably break stuff if it's used at full power, I think ill add it just to have the option but will see. . . 

https://youtube.com/shorts/6hPaDBotFME?si=jZJwlUqwGYtoHxpv

https://youtu.be/4D4KsOw_sYE?si=HhoGcgXo5Ia-5hLV

Also,. Dont use aramex for overseas shipping, took a month to deliver a package 

Haha diddnt realise you were there, i turned up later and stayed to try and sort out some bits, yea i can do something about that, i asked him to setup 2step as well lol ill tidy the whole thing up when its running good, yea relay was my bad, good guy ay