Cdarust

where is this now?

On 03/11/2019 at 17:38, dspec_tt131 said:

Repainted brake booster and did some more assembly today. Gave the guards a good scrub down and cleaned the drain channels out. 

What are you guys using to seal between guards and body along the top seam and what's the best website for acquiring m6 toyota bolt kits? 

Really struggling with putting crusty parts back on so if anyone could reccomend somewhere in Auckland to get front and rear crossmembers and castor brackets, sway bar and lower control arms powdercoated that would be awesome.

Look on flos.ie for bolt kits man 

or try NST even though they would be an arm and a leg 

flo has 150 pce kits 

6 minutes ago, Truenotch said:

I reckon you should get rid of that half cage. It's worse than nothing at all. 

The rest of the car is super sweet though, well done. 

yeah probably only going to be for show lol, aquired it cheap so thought why not, also got it before i got the interior so chucked it in

ideally i want to get it lower.

new exhaust 

figure out how to run the 8,5s up front 

maybe pair of cams 

did a few other things aswell, powered by g4 software now also a set of 175/50/13s 

150mm springs up front with 180s in the back both 6kg 

havent really done a whole lot except the itb and COP conversion

done more to the suspension, running fortunes all round, mrp RCAs and a set of mintex pads and new rotors

bit of a pic dump 

its taken about a year to get to this point,getting to final stages now. Stu has worked his magic and got the motor running again and now on home stretch to getting it running

so within the past kind of 2 months ive begun spending some proper time and some proper money on this thing instead of just buying wheels for it, got the fortune auto suspension in the front finally and in the rear. painted my roll cage and ended up throwing in some factory sprint interior. SQ engineering itb manifold and finally a tachometer dash.

1 hour ago, Styles said:

Helpfully most Japanese manufacturers have the original number on the parts, for bushes. Looks like your sway-bar mount (D-bush) is too far gone, but the control arm one is the 5-5 digit number on it - 4??74-18020

Been struggling at auto long trying to match something up and didn’t end up getting anything

Can’t find the other forum so here we go 

I’m after the part numbers for the lower control arm to sway bar and the sway bar D Shackle Mount 

@jackeo21

i pinched my chonda off the vellodrome bike but might be in the market for another one.

so far so good most of the bike is done, just last 3 things now which are tyres brakes and chain/pulley off crank and then she should be ready to rark 

Unsure really what motor to go and which one would suit. I have a Briggs dummy motor I thought I’d sit in there but I also have a gx motor from another thing. Really just playing up between the two now

The Briggs will allow more clearance from the tyre etc. but the gx will give me room for a. Fuel tank and an exhaust underneath the seat

9 minutes ago, UTERUS said:

Fantastic idea, the faster the better. 

I have a GX200 powered one with a couple of mild tweaks and it will happily do 70 with my manly physique, so go for it. 

 

fuckin awesome, I picked up one of those velodrome racers recently as well, that had a 120 on it but I blew her up with a lack of oil lol so stuck with a 160 with the governor on it still now which Is a tonne of fun

I really don't get on this enough, you've probably seen it plastered all over facebook... it is bug eye swapped. Is green and is scary to drive, Car literally hasn't been moving in ages 

ill probably be updating this in the next couple of days thoroughly 

So I recently acquired this old sketchy 1970's beast off a friend, he has a little 50cc 'performance' china motor but im considering a little lifan 4 stroke and 4 speed to spice it up a bit. I guess follow here for updates and also would love suggestions on the look 

The beginning

Woke up hungover, friends all tagging me in some stupid toyota listing 

Thought fuck it ill go have a look, was probably going to waste the guys time anyway with some shitty lowball offer.

Me mates loved it, then made the call. didnt tell mum or dad when i rocked up home with a gorgeous kp60 bugeye flat hatch. 

The run down

So shes sporting a redtop 4 age with cam gears and some other fancy shit powered by a link g3 followed by a k50 () and tailing along is a factory U code axle 

goes well, wicked fast. 

has 2 seats, a dash, a steering wheel and a battery... and not much else. 

The plan 

Basically the plan is to keep sporting it up and probably a panel and paint next year, coilovers t50 and maybe different diff. Cage so i dont die, blah blah blah and so on.

This is just pretty much a follow on from where i left off with my ol escort haha except its toyota and its better.

Make it a faggy stancy boi car that goes fast and doooorts  

not worth much when you can buy them for about 3,000 mate wouldnt bother

14 hours ago, peteretep said:

They are probably around 1.3mm, and need to be around 1.7mm. I have run R1 carbs on my escort with 1.8L xflow and a cam with 1.8mm jets.

 

There is probably 2 or 3 hose type fittings coming off the top of the carbs which lead into the top chambers, these should be blocked off or connected together otherwise the slides will 'flutter' alot becuase a xflow/car engine doesnt rev as quickly as a motorbike motor.

 

If possible, becuase these look a little old/crusty, you should put a carb tuning tool on them with the car running to make sure they are all sucking the same. It would also be a good idea to pull them apart a little bit but if the bowl gaskets are anything like I have seen, then be very careful or expect to buy new ones (which are quite expensive).

 

When you set these up, you should check the fuel coming out of the main jets/needle areas just inside the carb, if fuel is leaking out at idle, you should drop the needle down until its 99% stopped

 

And you would probably get away with a standard pump, I personally have not tried. I used electric pump and regulator plus a gauge for setting it up

 

the image from my project have died, so I will look at relinking them soon. so that I might be able to show you some pics of my setup

have you got a build thread I can look at mate?!!? plus any tips for manifold/and dizzy cap. 

Trying to source a locally made manifold before buying out of England

17 minutes ago, BobbyBreeze said:

R1 carbs can use weber DGV main jets. Never had any luck buying them off Weber Specialties though so I wouldn't bother trying unless you can go see them in person. 

I have heard mixed reviews from them. some good, some bad and overpriced worst comes to worse ill have to 

Hey guys picked up some Mikuni bike carburettors off a gsxr1100 the other day. 

Just wondering if anyone what what factory jetting sizes are and/or have a diagram of the carb blown up so I can learn more about them. cheers.

Will be going on a crossflow ford motor 

so ideally want to learn how to change the jets if need be

Name (first is sweet): Jake

Location:Auckland

Cars you own: 1976 Ford Escort Mk2

Mods to them (can be brief or detailed): pretty modded now

How you found out about oldschool: Through a few friends and my cousin.

Anything else you want to add:

I love RWD Toyotas

Eagers rubbed too much so had to splurge out on some brand new Yokohama A539, which are by far the best tyre I've driven on considering its still a street orientated tyre. 

Still look aggressive and ride super smooth and nicely. 

Don't take too long to warm up either and stick reaaaaaally well even in a car with a solid axle and no 4 link lol

Got there in the end after about 3 months of set backs.

In the shop for a wof thats why bonnet up

lowered- 

-3inch in the rear on blocks and shortened Mazda 626 shocks

-2inch soon to come 

Came back to Auckland and engine was all ready to be bolted together and dummy up the fit in the engine bay and try on some stuff ( parts were rusty cos they sat on garage floor for a month while I was away)

but looked good. Head was attached, block painted. All my components cleaned up and brand new gaskets and water pump, sensors etc etc etc.

(don't have any photos of me putting head together which I'm really annoyed about but shit happens) 

was happy with how everything lined up etc etc and it was time for the engine to go in.

Got the motor in and the throttle bodies hit on the firewall and brake booster, so back to square run and now to this day I'm still running the dinky di little 32/36 which isn't enough for the 11-1 compression ratio under full go.