dmulally

Hi All,

I have to get some retractable seat belts for LVV on my C20. Does anybody know of any NZ approved kits that have the mounting brackets I can fizz in to the B pillar and bolt to the floor? 

Otherwise am I better off just welding a nut to the back of a plate myself?

Cheers

I just had a set of bumpers sandblasted. Came up ok and ready to be rechromed. 

Cost $50. 

Kind of related but I got one of those brand new Zenith clones that go on a Land Rover S2 and could not get it to run right on my dozer no matter what I did. Ended up swapping it out for an old Zenith from a Commer and she runs perfect now. 

Hi Flash,

I finally got to test drive my finished commer van. I don't want to pull focus so if you wanna chat about the mods I did that worked and didnt work feel free to shoot me a PM.

Cheers

Damo

I managed to chat to a copper last night on the way home and he said if you don't give them a reason to pull you over it won't be an issue. Seems fair enough. 

12 minutes ago, kws said:

I was under the impression vtnz and the likes were a essential service? 

Banner on the VTNZ site says they shut yesterday. NZTA just say "Don't contact us". I assume any mechanics open would be for maintaining essential services fleet. Of which my Commer Van is essentially a pain in my arse and is due on the 11th of April. 

So does anybody know what the story with WOF's are for the next month? I have three vehicles due and my local VTNZ where I take my truck has shut up shop

On 14/02/2020 at 14:36, sluggy said:

I got the cover off amazon I think. I also have a rear canopy that I am never going to use, it does look a bit pedo spec, and has a broken window, but i dont want much for it !!

You had me at pedo!

Sent you a flirty pm. 

Lovely ute. 

I have a 66 C20 that I'm getting close to finishing off but I keep having drama after drama with the gearbox. 

Where did you get your rear deck cover from? I need one for mine and was going to have the tie down straps one but yours looks so much cleaner. 

LVV had me reset my leaf springs in the rear which had it sitting high. So to get it down low I then had to change the tyre profile to rubber bands. Which then needed a diff ratio change to get it comfortable again. I still think it is too tall but good thing about the chev is that there are loads of ratios. 

My old commer van was V8 and 5 speed. Loved it. 

As an aside, I looked at the Nissan Vanette as it had cable linkages. 

Is your radiator in the dog box? If so youre welcome to ping me offline so I can tell you how I go with my various upgrades and scoops etc. If it is up front like the beddy then youre in luck! 

Nice van!

I've just finished certing my commer van with a lexus 6 speed, rapier engine and chev diff. Massive PITA now it is all said and done. 

If doing again I would go for a holden 6 and auto box and change the diff/ratio to something taller. The biggest pain was getting the linkages right for the lexus shifter. It took a LOT of fine tuning but now it is done, it can run off the clock. Only thing that needs work is the cooling system. Over 55mph it starts warming up as the air passes below it rather than up into the radiator in the dog box. Probably because I lowered it too much. I'll work on a scoop and aux radiator etc shortly. At 55mph it is sweet though. 

Good luck! 

On 04/10/2019 at 08:14, yoeddynz said:

plus one for electric pumps. I've not used one but everything I have read about them makes so much sense. I have allowed for the fitting of one in the back of my Imp by making sure the pipes layout would suit plus added some wiring in place just in case the Datsun pump wasn't up to the job of pumping coolant to the front etc.  When I last looked up the prices the Davies Craig pumps, with the electronic controllers have really dropped in price. Certainly not at all excessive for what they do and the quality of product. 

I put my DC EWP in the front of the Imp and it was fine. I routed the radiator coolant pipes through the body of the imp where the heater lines went rather than over the floor. To this day the worst job I have ever completed on any car. 

In regards to the lotus 7 overheating I had the same problem on my old 4age PRB. Through a combo of angling the front number plate to channel airflow up (bottom of which was at sump height so if I scraped on a speed bump I reversed out of there), changing to a SPAL fan from the repco cheapie electric fan, and redline water wetter I got it down from 110 degrees in traffic to around 90. 

On 12/09/2019 at 21:57, locost_bryan said:

Common to all the Farina saloons, MGA & early MGB (pre 68 iirc), Marina ute and 575 van, Austin & Morris commercials iirc. 

https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/rearaxle/ra201.htm

I'd go for MGB. Parts a plenty. 

All good

8 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Only first registered post 1 April 1994 will have a VIN. I would have though that a chassis number would be OK for certificaction?

That is what I thought but apparently I need a replacement one if I cannot find it. Which I cannot. 

Carjam says what it is here:

https://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=bbq488&fbclid=IwAR2q5IfEEX5J1-MyxtPaBPMoFgXY2lnr-erYAs4I6vSZzoNCDV82Vk3dnt4

And going to the NZTA site is as erotic as it is helpful and seems to be aimed at repairers who can access their system. 

Hi All,

I'm struggling to find the VIN on my Commer Van. The engineer needs a pic of it for LVV cert. I can find it on carjam and I can find the chassis and body number but the VIN is eluding me thus far. 

If it turns out I can't find it, am I going to have to drag it down to VINZ? Lord help me...

Welding stuff on once powdercoated is a pain. 

I'd just go wire wheel and POR-15. Don't go out of your way to make the chassis super clean. POR stands for Paint Over Rust so it adheres better in my experience. On clean steel I have had it flake off. Even when keyed. 

On 13/08/2019 at 12:14, Toddy415 said:

I cleaned mine up with meths as per instructions then wax and grease remover then applied epoxy primer. The epoxy is super easy to chip off / hasn't stuck very well at all so I am thinking I went wrong using the meths. I will try cleaning up using thinners instead next time.

Sounds like it needed a bit of scuffing first. 

8 minutes ago, SOHC said:

Would it be possable to brush on 2K clear to an old car to preserve it? 

I guess so but you'd be sanding for aaaages afterwards and then buffing 

It is for my C20. I cant decide on a colour and it has far too many rattle can touch ups for my liking. You know the ones where they thought nobody would notice but just looks crap. 

Hey, does anybody know what the legalities are in driving around a vehicle in bare metal/only a clear coat? 

Not that I can recall. Even if it were sidedraft it would have some problems. I think if I pulled the carbs apart and had 1" straight tubes it would be ok. But I needed to angle the runners and that pushed them out a little. 

It is up and running now with the weber so I won't be looking at bike carbs again. They are in my ever increasing parts bin for shit I shouldn't have bought. 

What do you need to know specifically? I used to have one in italy about 20 years ago. 

I'd personally not bother but then I drive like a nanna both on and off the track. 

Providing you could weld some plates with captured nuts in the right areas, I'd make it bolt in. But if you're not circuit racing I wouldn't bother as it would be unlikely that you'd be T-boned. 

I have not only a C20 vanette, but an SC12 and a commer van carb hat. All can be had for rip off high prices.