dmulally

Hi All,

Not worth a new thread and I'm just tyre kicking at the moment. I have a scimitar that I'm having real problems finding an engine that will fit in. I went very far with an L67 install but the blower off to the side screwed that up. Even with a hefty chunk of the firewall and passenger compartment taken away it still wouldn't fit. A normal ecotec would fit but that is boring. 

I have a 4agze in a lotus 7 replica that won't sell so am eyeing up raiding that for the running gear as I know it all works and it is technically free. Whilst it gives me brown undies in the 600kg sportscar, does anybody know how they fair in a chunkier body? With the toyota in it it should come in around the 1000kg mark. 

Will it be torquey enough or would I need to modify the blower for more boost? 

Here is a video of the engine in question last weekend.  

Ta. 

Gday Ned,

Do you guys source DIY EV parts? 
 

18 hours ago, ajg193 said:

How much of a bastard would it be to get one of these registered? They have airbags and abs but are lhd

 

https://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/importing-a-vehicle/exceptions/importing-a-left-hand-drive-vehicle/

Looks like a lot of a bastard really. 

On 21/06/2021 at 15:53, tortron said:

I feel like the easiest way would be a commer on an l200 4wd chassis

I daily drive a commer. 

When I converted one to V8 I got to know the chassis quite well. The body (especially at the wheels) would pose a few dramas but nothing that can't be fixed by raising the body over the chassis to clear it. 

Wow cool. A quick google suggests they are around USD16k. Shirley you would buy an older one as they would have made about a billion by now. 

Drive it to a safe port and ship it home. 

Hmmmm this sounds like it could be a cool little adventure. My last pre covid adventure was to ride a bike across the states. This would be a whole other nightmare. 

https://travelrealrussia.com/uaz_howtobuy

25 minutes ago, cletus said:

Oil leaks-

I have an extensive track record of accidentally organising complete shitboxes for my reviews with NZTA (I've been doing this job since 2006 and my last review was the first time I'd ever done the road test procedure with a reviewer, as all the other times there was too much stuff wrong with the cars to drive them) 

 

Anyway the first time I got reviewed it was an s13 that had a really bad oil leak at the rear main seal, like put it on the hoist and there was a 100mm puddle under the car

 

I failed it because I figured it was pretty hazardous to motorcyclists and I'd better be thorough because nzta man was there...

 

the reviewer marked me down because legally there was no rule I could fail it for that  

 

 

 

And that's my sharn about that

Blimey. Sounds like he had an axe to grind. 

How refreshing. 

1 hour ago, tortron said:

Please prove me wrong tho, that's all I can find related 

If I hear anything different I'll let you know. Thanks. 

My long suffering wof guy is used to the crap I bring in and we have a really good relationship by now. I'm moving soon and he is the only person I'll miss in this shitty town. 

1 hour ago, tortron said:

Clean it all before wof, its generally not a fail item but

my morrie dripped on a wof inspector when he had it idling over the pit and he was pissed

 

like no shit dude its gona drip no matter what if its sitting there idling

 

if its a bad leak then it can come down to being unsafe, dripping on soemthing important (brakes eg. i had an axle leak but it ran down the backing plate instead of inside so was all good)

One old and bold I spoke to with the same engine in another car made a little sump with a tap that bolted onto the bellhousing. It has an  Something similar to the below which is pretty funny. I don't believe my engine even has a rear main seal. Just a slinger that is supposed to send oil back into the sump. 

I'm about to put my Jag 340s through the first wof it has had in nearly a decade. Like a lot of the 3.4 engines it leaks out the rear. Does anybody know how oil leaks affect wofs? It isn't a steady stream but it does drip. 

When fixing the car up I did find a sponge shoved up there. I wonder how long that had been there for... 

I set mine up as per instructions with a kit from the states and it only plays nicely some of the time. If I pull it out again though it will be to take to the scrappy. But I'm sure when I finally find that sweet spot and it works from then on I'll be happy. Just a bit of a pain as I'd love to be driving it but have no idea what it is going to do. And with the C20 truck diff it won't go over 45mph without revving it's nut off in third. 

A diff swap is far easier for me...until you want to tow 

On 25/03/2021 at 00:49, Hemi said:

Yeah man , its proper cancer now. buuut again. the rest is pretty solid. My fault, had the resources and did nothing to the poor thing.

When i picked it up of @Camel about Port Macquarie i must have hit the vent to engage the a/c, didnt notice until cruising and the engine tone would change. I shat myself.
then realised what was the go. that is amazing. 
Im amazed at this truck, aside from the mirrors and dumping it . its o.g . all the stickers , all the o.g jacks etc. i love it. 

Yeah it 100% need some love. Dont really want a show truck but i reckon a bit of love to treat the tumours and seal things and it will be off the chain. 
 

100% want the overdrive , but watching videos to pull these apart and they are so simple so long as you know the couple important parts. i love it. just works. 

The 350 is lush and have no plans to replace it tbh , given the o.g of it and such i feel it would be rude to ruin it. 
Diddy did mention a cummins transplant , which i could 100% get on board with. but that soo far down the track , like the airbag route type thing. 

I know nothing about either of these cars mr. you should share. if that ute of your is anything to go by. they will be off the chain.

I just finally got my 66 C20 on the road after years of building it up. 

I cannot stress enough how painful this 700r4 box has been. Same one behind the V8's in VN-VP era commodores. It was incredibly expensive to rebuild and still isn't set up correctly. Worst thing is if you don't set it up properly it can and will cook it. I have the harmonic balancer off and am waiting for a new one to come in before I'll try to set the shift points one last time. It either won't find overdrive at all or will change 1,2,3 in about 20 meters. Overdrive sometimes works which means it is probably the TV cable. 

If that doesn't work I will rip it out (I've already had it passed for LVV so that will be fun) and put in a TH400 and change the entire diff for a taller ratio. Which will be fun as it is an 8 stud pcd. 

Don't do the th700. It is shit. 

I travel long distances in my van. I used kilmat, el cheapo and dynamat. 

The best results I got were from heavy shagpile carpet in the empty deck area and over the doghouse I put some thick beach towels folded up. Being a commer, I can't put fitted carpet as I need to get into the engine bay frequently. 

Where did you get those wing mirrors? I love them. 

25 minutes ago, flyingbrick said:

Which part is bespoke? the input to the gauges or the gearbox output?

Gearbox output. Where there is a shaft that goes to the electronic sender, mine just has a slot for a mechanical speedo. That has warped and is eating cables. 

9 minutes ago, flyingbrick said:

Hey man. This does not answer your question, but I think SpeedHut sell adaptors to fit most gearboxes that convert mechanical gearbox output into pulses to suit their speedo's (and probably many others). Might be easy compared to factory stuff (Or exactly the same, no idea)

The stock one looks like it has two pins but I have no idea what they output.

Thanks for that and I'll check them out. Speedhut may work but as the mechanical shaft is bespoke, that's what I'm trying to ditch. It is essentially a mechanical output shaft brazed onto the original shaft. 

This is interesting. But not what I need. It would be good for redundancy though as it has GPS input as well as VSS. 

Bump. 

I have a 6 speed manual box from a Lexus is200 in my Commer van. It has a mechanical sender conversion and it has started eating cables. I'll get this shaft straightened out but I'm just wondering a couple of things.

1. Is the vehicle speed sensor the same as any other models out there? Searching for an IS200 brings up a lot of 300 and 400's. 

2. Would it be possible to put the stock sender back in and wire it directly to a custom electronic speedo or does it need the ECU in the way? 

Thanks in advance.  

Great to see another crappy old van getting an overdue birthday. I remember whacking a bid on that a long time ago on TM but was never that serious about it. 

My best advice for COV ownership is to invest in a really good set of noise cancelling headphones! 

As for getting it back on the road, I'd make an appointment to go see the person at VTNZ and ask their advice. Will likely involve getting a receipt and a stat dec from the plod that it isn't listed as stolen. 

11 hours ago, ajg193 said:

What a Barry setup.

Modern LPG/dual fuel systems are seamlessly integrated with the cars. You notice no difference whatsoever between running on LPG and petrol, even the switchover happens without you noticing.

 

Are you talking EFI or carb? 

So diesel prices sans the RUCs? 

I'll be putting it the back of here so would be aiming for 150l or so. The petrol tank is nice and snug inside the cab behind the bench seat which is nice. 

I was threatening to put my 283 chev on a Sniper EFI system to ditch the edelbrock it has now. I wonder if they work with dual fuel. I remember my old Clevo ran great on LPG and crap on petrol. Something to do with timing iirc but that was 10 years ago now. 

I think for the cost of the Sniper EFI I could probably convert to LPG but would need to find a decent sized tank. Does anybody know where to shop for them? Ta

Is it as painful to fill up a car on LPG as it is a 9kg gas bottle? As in the staff roll their eyes and make excuses why they can't do it? Or is it just a separate bowser? 

I use to have a 351 clevo F100 in Australia on dedicated LPG with a 200l tank. Took an eternity to fill up but the range it gave was decent. I assumed nobody had it here until this thread. Heh. 

In my experience, it'll just sit in someone's backyard under a ripped tarp whilst they collect payments for unforeseen issues. 

I just ruin paintjobs myself, but in the past when I have lived somewhere I couldn't spray, I have cut a deal with a local panel shop. As in I did all the prep work including sanding and taking off trim. Then took it to the paint shop on a Saturday morning where I would mask it up in the carpark. Then push it in and they spray with the paint you supply. 

Take it home, rub down and bring back to the panel shop for top coating and a bit of baking before driving home. Shouldn't cost too much and it would be done in a jiffy. 

Unless there is rust work to be done then just ignore what I wrote. 

Hi All,

I have sticking brakes in my s-type Everything online suggests it is the booster. So I unplugged it and it doesn't stick anymore. With it plugged in the pedal is like wood. 

I have a VH40. I was wondering what is the consensus with rebuilding vs buying new. I'm not interested in a knock off. Had one in my old V8 commer and was a pain. 

If rebuilding is the way to go, anybody know anywhere that does it? 

edit: Ignore that. Apex up north had them on the shelf for only a small bit more than the rebuild kit. No brainer. 

On 12/03/2021 at 15:38, nzstato said:

Have just ordered some kilmat.  Any advice on some additional undercarpet insulator?  Pref not underfelt as it may get wet, options for a sticky backed foam?

I just came back inside after doing the back of my commer van. I opted for the usual underlay and shag carpet over sound matting. Reason being it is easy enough to drag out and dry if it gets wet.