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Posts posted by Transom
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Run some solid struts for a week instead of the rear shocks
Then see if you still wanna cut it
Hard tail with sprung seat and fat 16" rear tyre with not much pressure and my kidneys still hate me decades later
Sure it can be certed if done well
There may even be off the shelf hard tail frames for that engine somewhere
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Scored a set and a 1/2 of ITBs from BMW K100 4 cylinder motorbike
They run the injector direct into the head separate from the throttle body so are pretty much just butterflys in a throat and used on K75 3 cylinder so very modular design
Also very short height so that will help with bonnet clearance issues
Plan is to use the stock V6 manifold cut down with the stock injector ports injectors and fuel rails and add some alloy tube to mount the ITBs with silicon joiners
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Good plan
You can see the snow while having a wine and be glad you are not trying to drive in it
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Yes west is best driving roads
Avoid Arthur's and Lewis pass for the next few days it's looking shitty and white
Unless your Aston mondeo is good at snowploughing ?
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Had one of the early twincab dyna tipper trucks with the dual rear wheels for a work vehicle
4 ton payload ran on 6 ton sticker
Able to u-turn on narrow 2 lane road better than any ute
Awesome little trucks
So yeah the van thing is all about the payload and duals mean cheaper road miles than same weight on singles
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Totally fill to overflow as you screw the top on
And cycle the damper rod first to get rid of the air bubbles
Used to add a welded on nut and bleed screw on old triumph rear shocks to make them rebuild able easier
Other way is to assemble them in a tub of fluid
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Control arm bushes?
Rockauto.com have them listed under American Motors 1965 classic
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And dropped back into engine bay to check measure clearances etc
next missions are plate adaptor for starter motor engine mounts sump chop new clutch ...
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Slow progress
Picked up another v6 cheap for bits looks clean has plenty of parts for spares as i experiment with bodging
Visited Alex and Hannah and looked at their awesome shed and mighty v6 viva for inspiration
Countersunk the holes for adaptor to engine bolts csk allen screws in m12x1.5 are not cheap
Shoulda not drilled the 2 bottom holes so much and tapped them for for stock bolts thru from the front woulda saved $
Cheap tardme countersink bits were great cut mild steel so clean and easy
cut a slice off the starter motor mounting to get it to match up to flywheel - dont grind alloy at home kids its dangerous
ended up being a nogo on using rx7 starter - pinion way too small to match up so its steel plate for here and use the v6 starter
even bought a new rx7 starter too keen ... 1 step forward 2 steps back
started looking at hose routing lost most of the ugly mass of hoses off the v6
lower rad hose routes to rear of block in the valley
flipped the thermostat housing to route heater hoses towards car heater and lower rad hose to drivers side where mx5 rad inlet is
removed a big ugly hose tee and blocked it with a frost plug
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Yup knew crazy kanuka Colin too
Mountain biked up to his land once what an epic trail to get in there
The best push bikes to build off are heavy duty chromo steel jump bikes or full suspensions where the rear shock and links are behind the rear triangle
I have seen enough alloy bikes fail to not trust the fatigue life even without adding a motor
Speed controller and batteries is the expensive part but prices are dropping every year
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The laws are strange - most of the electric assist bikes in nz are restricted on power to comply and have no reg reqd
I helped a bit with the German guy from takaka hills bike (he is also Alex)
It is a weapon - has many gears and pulls hard up the hill
Most of it was carved out by hand with hacksaw and file by candlelight while very chooched but the engineering is very well thought out
The trade me add a petrol motor kits are crap - anyone here could do better with a motor from the dump shop and $100
Been thinking of putting a huge rc brushless out runner motor on my commuter bike and running it thru gearset
Looking out for one of those odd old healing 10 speed cranksets that have the freewheel in the crank
Electric hub motors are not the way to go
Most electric bikes are like heavy cheap warehouse crap with about 500$ worth of hub motor crap lead acid battery and sold for 2k plus
The new Scott electric bike range is very nice all Bosch gear
Euro spec gets the derestricted version
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I need your wisdoms, does anyone think this is good/worth it?
http://www.ecotrons.com/products/400cc_to_800cc_engine_fuel_injection_kit/
Microsquirt looks better and cheaper for a bike application if you can source your own throttle body and injector setup
Been looking at getting rid of the evil BMW motronic ecu on my 650 single and microsquirt looks easy as
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I hope that was the " how not to "repair a spark plug thread video
Wonder what the instructions really said ?
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^^^ there we go cert ninja answered while I was thumb typing
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Last time I got a cert way back it was 3 hard stops from 100km with a portable deaccellerometer thingy sitting on the floor
Same as they used to use for truck cof before the days of brake rollers
Ask your friendly local cert guy
Boosted at least has to be good
What PCD/size are your wheels?
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Awesome sounding v6 s
And they sound even better running ITBs
The yanks on probetalk boost the hell out of these
Currently wrecking a cronos same shape if you need any odd bits cheap as
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Yup spigot bearing is farked but still turns and
Whole clutch kit is on the way so I can get that buttoned up and start on engine mounts and chopping up the sump
Intake manifold ideas are now making my head hurt
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Eyeometry and sheer luck mostly
Motor sitting on it's nose so no load any direction
Rx7 bell is shorter than mx5 so the input shaft pokes out about 12mm
Already knew one bolt hole lined up to the motor from yoeddys viva build
So drop box onto adaptor and into spigot drop bolt in - wiggle the box so there is no side loading - check input shaft turns freely
Clamp down mark and drill other bell housing bolt holes
Adaptor plate sits over motor dowels
Have a couple of blind holes in bell so I will add dowels to adaptor too
Backwoods bastard bodging really but workin with what I have access to here in the Styx
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Much cutting grinding hacksawing grinding and drilling and tapping later
12mm holes thru to block need countersunk for flat countersunk allen screws - one main bolt shown goes right thru bellhousing to block - that and the input shaft into spigot what i have lined it all up on
Threads tapped 10mm for bellhousing to adaptor bolts - still needs more trimmed off this side - hole visible was a tester for drill and tap sizing
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Now I know for sure the dizzy won't fit it's gonna be full standalone
Later model 626 has 36-1 trigger wheel front pulley
Get to ditch the maf too and just run crank trigger tps and map sensor
Spent half the day marking drilling and cutting excess off the 12mm steel adaptor plate the local engineers roughcut for me cheap
4kg untrimmed prob get it down to 2kg by the time it's finished
Lost so much weight off the car by removing AC and power steer
Steel worked out cheaper easier and stronger for the threads I need to tap into it
Crap photos of progress sometime soon
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Ah ok the white plastic ecu plug looks very low tech more radio shack spec than auto wiring
Possible to steal a connector or 2 from another pin you are not using by gently using a pick to gently release the connector from the plastic?
So little info for these - wiring diagram is vague as
New bare loom complete 145 aus$
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Got a picture of the stinger plug and loom? What version do you have?
They are setup to run a Bosch 4 wire narrowband direct or an LC-1 thru it's controller
Air temp compensation seems like a good idea
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Got one 2nd hand cheap v4 stinger
Cheaper than landing an ms 2 kit
Have done lots of old vehicle wiring and high powered RC car electronics but this efi stuff is new to me
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I'm a bit beyond a pnp system now -my old engine loom and ecu and ecu plug went to a better place in maxteds b1600
Have heard odd things about using pnps on things beyond their design
I have whole v6 loom sensors and ecu but the no room for dizzy makes it easier to start from scratch
So anyone run an ems stinger?
Or tried a mitzi v6 3 channel ignitor rather than using 3x single ignitors?
Other option is to use the EDIS System but I don't know if the stinger will play nicely with that
Alternative to blasting or paint stripper?
in Tech Talk
Posted
Most places that do powder coating have a dip strip tank?
Surely one of those in the naki?