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Posts posted by 66gt
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Fuck that's the ultimate pauper spec not even a ciggie lighter.
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1 hour ago, Slacker_Sam. said:
Last weekend I committed automotive suicide and bought a cheap Jag XJ6.....Its a real dog.
The problem is over more than half throttle the motor just pops and farts and will not accelerate. Under half and its fine. It seems to run pretty sweet at idle and cold start. It will rev freely in neutral. Its a 4.2 Injected. I'm thinking possibly the airflow meter is playing up? But the whole thing is very yuck to work on.
Any help would be muchly appreciated.
Automotive suicide fucks that's funny. You're a brave man taking on a shitter Jag. Pull the engine and dump a SB Chev or Lexus V8 into it. There will be a few Barry's that know what the issue is
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Never been fucked with first generation hot hatches, Golf GTI, Corolla GT Twincam etc will be worth big bucks plus anything HSV
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I'll be going if it's not raining. I'll take the Senator
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I'm running Aussie Desert Cooler in my Senator. No issues yet but quite a bit of shit feedback on the forums about Desert Cooler. Seems they all have their problems no matter what brand
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Might have to get my 65 Vespa 150 Super out
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rodshop.com.au. You prob already been there
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On 17/09/2016 at 19:46, Kiwibirdman said:
Today is engine in the hole day
First put engine and gearbox together
This took 3 goes until the torque converter was properly into the trans.
Then move the car over and line up, does it really fit in this little hole????
Nearly there. Managed to drop a whole lot of trans fluid on the floor. Typical, and a little goes a long way.
In the hole but not a lot of space. At the risk of sounding like a stuck record these are really small cars especially in the engine bay.
The chassis rail at the front will need to be notched to get some clearance. The engine mount adapters are of a VT commodore and put mounts too far apart.
Lots of head scratching, contemplating and then cutting and shutting to do. If anyone has any brilliant ideas add them to the discussion.
Remote mount the oil filter?
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V4 in a Transit will turn into a Transhit. All the above are right. Lots used to put in coon 6's or just a V8. Depends how much you want to spend and if you want to go to all the hassle of getting it certed.
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On 23/06/2017 at 16:26, N3K said:
Well they didn't take it! Flew up from Nelson and I advised in my listing and to them multiple times that I can hear a very low whine from the diff. I had axels out, I checked bearings (replaced 6 months ago) and I figured it might be a diff bearing - maybe pinion. They took it to get an inspection with the local Ford dealership - they raised this issue, bearing is stuffed and may need replacing soon and they quoted about $900! What the hell. That's insane. They got cold feet and decided not to buy it at the risk of driving it back down the North Island and it crapping out. I said you'll make it to Nelson, don't worry, just don't lock the wheels up and leave a skid mark down the Auckland motorway!
Then I hear from a mate that the guys dogged me about my car!
Took it to a Ford dealer lol. They wouldn't know what they are looking at unless an old school mechanic there. Mechanical work so easy on Escorts and a whine from the diff is nothing. It will probably still do another 100k and still sound the same. Hang out till a genuine classic Ford fan buys it and you won't have to put up with muppets expecting a brand new car and phone calls in 6 months complaining about a blown light bulb.
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Cool project and another Escy wagon saved.
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On 22/06/2017 at 14:17, modz said:
Good point, sorry had missed that. I spotted the link from the guy on trademe who is selling New Ford Escort Mk2 shells. Internationally there has been heated debate about how these get on the road.
Same surely applies to steel Mustangs, Camaros and anything else you can now buy as a complete replacement vehicle.
Easy to get on the road by just swapping relevant body ID with your old rusted out donor. You could argue about the quality of steel however it's probably better than the original and also no dodgy repairs either. If no donor available then should be registered as scratch built and go through the cert process. Lots of cars been reshelled over the years and nobody is none the wiser. Registering as scratch build will get around the issue of fake ID plates and the car ends up being passed off as genuine.
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7 hours ago, Snoozin said:
Sales me says why not offer a respiratory and coverall solution to go with the paint, instead of point blank refusing to sell it.
Probably because the idiot buying still won't use the PPE. It's a tough one however good idea to sell the required PPE however spraying probably requires a lot more kit than just a face breather and overalls
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I bring in a few parts and It's always DHL that I have to pay import fees. It depends on who you ship with. DHL are fucking expensive for freight I have found and I try and avoid them. Unfortunately some overseas suppliers like Burtons in the U.K. Only use them
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1 hour ago, Bling said:
A good policy IMO. People are ignorant to the risks and do need protecting from themselves.
Having the correct PPE is a must.
Yep just safe guarding themselves in case some muppet buys and sprays without PPE and then tries to have a pop at the supplier when he gets sick because he's a dumb cunt and can't follow instructions and wear the correct PPE. Trust me there are dumb asses out there like that ruin it for the rest of us.
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Lots of Bryan's there but a good event and a great variety of cars too.
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Used to be a common installation and also bin the original rear suspension and fit a 9" rear. One of mates years ago had a silver Mk 4 Zodiac with a 351C, Toploader and 9". It was a cool car back then. Would be interesting if it's survived. This was back in the early 80's. By memory all the running gear came out of a wrecked XA GT when they were worth bugger all.
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Very cool ride!
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Poly bush steering joints don't have the self centreing effect original rubber bushes have. I'd use original rubber over poly any day for a weekend cruiser. If you can't get new rubber poly the only alternative unfortunately for most cars.
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6 minutes ago, kiwi808 said:
Nice surprise in Southland.
Original 12A coupe NZ New rego on hold with original black plates. All missing parts in a box and original wheels as well...... yeah right.
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Slightly more modern classics coming of age???
in General Car Chat
Posted
Long as it's all bolt on and you have the original parts in the garage. If you had some spare $ and storage start buying original wheels, induction systems, air filter piping and housings, engine bay covers/shroudings, steering wheels and interior trim parts as this sort of stuff will rocket in value when serious restorers start doing these cars.