Ashkellybarr

Cheers guys! Should have another update with a MX5 NB parts inclusive next

Night missions for the insomniac's These tires are a bit thinner and balder then the previous, ended up facing the other way at one point haha

Heads back from Taylor's, labeled, hot tub'd Picked up a new carbide bit witch eats threw alloy like butter. Couldn't help my self with head. Took the Orange peal off the chambers Casting mark behind seats Ex port out and polished All the casting marks up top to reduce build up areas. I'll polish up the ex ports and drop it back at Taylor for assembly with the new parts next week then hopefully get this bloody short block off to tony marsh

Sooo tedious Nearly there, I've done all the crappy places like above the fuel tank etc so I'll just do the other small patches later as I do work to the car. Shit takes a long time on stands with the car 1ft off the ground and loads of tiny sponges to apply it

Under seal time! Ooh the fun.. Jumped in the small fours garage for a couple days to smash it out. Dropped the fuel tank etc, just the tunnel to do but I can do that went I swap the box later on. Picked up a mx5 asin AZ6 as well for more of the research project Mold for the intake plenums getting a push with some demand from other people

up, sorted photo link thingers out

~{j160 experditions part 2}~ s15-altezza differences.. first off the cases are completely different. sort of cases aren't interchangeable the structures are different externally the shifter shafts are the same length how ever the j160 shaft comes out of the case and has a separate bracket the shifter mounts to the s15 box the selector shaft is inside the case and the shifter mount mounts to the case and the bottom of the shifter from the ball down sits in the case the structure inside is actually the same breather location and splash plate are identical and also the plastic locator in the end of the input shaft the output splines are different sizes and spline counts well we can see there the s15 output shaft is 1 and 1/8 of a hammer long and that the j160 output shaft is 5/8's of a hammer long now the similarity's... the selector shafts are exactly the same only difference being the things that those location ball bearing things sit in. this will be due to the different cases and possibly from car manufacture selector feel preferences??? now the big question.. are the gears interchangeable?? the inside of the cases being the same, the selector setup being nearly identical, cheaper to manufacture them the same, 1-5 being identical ratio's it would seem the gear set is exactly the same the shaft for the output gears measures the same and has the same spline count so those are interchangeable, I'm yet to pull the syncro's off the input gears so cant confirm 100% but externally they are exsactly the same so I can only assume they are. so.. they can be interchangeable bad part, output gear is press off only. so to do that its gear box apart, completely however it does mean its a good excuse to do the thrust washer mod I'm yet to pull the front housing apart but from so far id say its fair to think the gear sets are in them are interchangeable

B. continued alright so theres some mounts that shifter base can swap onto, their even tapped out already gold bolts are original, mount sitting in other.. you cant see it but theres allowance on the bottom mount as well im unsure if this is maybe because the rear case is the same on the nissan or MX5 maybe?? maybe their shift mounts can swap over?? any who, we can see this would move the whole mount and shifter forward 53mm sooooo, can the shift mount move forward on the shaft?? indead it can, how ever, the case gets in the way 28mm of it going into 2nd-4th-6th photo of mount on shaft in 4th in standard postion so we need to cut the case down, not to hard lets look at what's inside.. seal and bearing as expected we can see the bearing floats in a stainless sleave looking inside toward the back we can see a bit of meat, around 20mm or so can also see the ball bearing shift locker (10mm ellen key next to shifter) so, if we pull the bearing sleeve out, mill that down further so the sleeve sits further inside the box and instead of putting that one back in, put one out of a C series box that doesn't slide backwards and forwards to save space (some MR2 guys run fwd-rwd converted boxes with no bearings) and then resessed the seal up against that we would in fact gain 32-35mm witch would be enough to move the mount on the shaft forward and clear the gears on the down stroke where the shaft gets pushed forward last piece of this puzzle is mounting the mount forward on the shaft. shafts are nitrated hardened steel when I made a selector shaft to convert an E58 to rwd (or rear mount), I simply used and angle grinder to grind a 4x4mm patch threw the top 3mm of steel after 4mm the steels soft as butter and easy to drill and tap just haft to be careful to remove as little of the hardened outer as possible so we'll see how it goes but the should put the shifter forward 53mm

ok so I still haven't figured out how to link nice photos cause I suck with computers but want to use links to spread it out as a pose to "add photo" so if some one could explain or fix it that would be awesome B. so removing 6th gear set 14 bolts 1 split pin 3 C clips 1 snap ring thinger removing case: pull the rear case off all you need is a 12mm-extention, hole punch, 10mm ellen key, and 19mm socket bolts for the rear case and shifter mount are all 12mm and all the same length (cheers ASIN) so can go back where ever and you not having to use egg cartons and lable them all theres two shift location lockers you need to remove/loosen ones the 10mm ellen key next to the shifter RHS (is basically a plug with spring under it to push the down) others 19mm half way down the rear case LHS (this was tight as hell, I nearly rounded it off, not a bolt that can be bought off the shelf so be careful) these are basically sprung ball bearings that sit in grooves and hold the shaft arms in position and maintain shifter position while changing gears once the 4 bolts for the shift brace/mount are undone it'll pull straight off the mount on the shaft has one 12mm bolt and a split pin, think I used a #4 Ellen key and hammer to tap it out after that it slides straight off couple taps with a mallet and wedging a screw driver off it pops and up it slides there's two previsions for screw driver wedging on either side for maximum wedgness

~{J160 expeditions - part 1}~ a. random blabbering b. 6th gear and shift location A: alrightie, so I have a J160 and want to run it in the rina couple things have come up with regards to the box but also staying A series motor first is ill be using the SQ engineering adaptor http://www.sq-engineering.com/upgrade-parts/4age-to-j160-gearbox-adapter-kit.html positives are, -I can sell my A series bell housing to help fund it (leen reuses it) -my aw11 has a 225mm clutch kit and flywheel, the altezza uses a 225mm clutch so I can run a 225mm kit (225 doesn't clear the housing in T40/50), not hugely important but it means both cars will run the exact same MRP flywheel, carbon kev plate and rated pres plate second is this 6th gear from a Nissan S15 everyone has been talking about for those not familiar, the boxs are both asin AZ6 that have then been sold to Nissan and Toyota (and others) so it would make sence the parts swap between them reason being that the Nissan 6th gear would make the yota 6th longer, better highway mileage, lower revs on motor over long distances etc etc ive been lucky enough to pick up a s15 6sp dirt cheap so ill be dissecting that and documenting it up against the j160, and all importantly seeing if the 6th gearset can swap onto the yota shafts third is the strength, now the ASIN AZ6 is said to be very strong, but most reports show after 220nm or more theres a chance to kick thrust washers out on 3rd and 4th all is explained and resolved in this link. the link is however for the nissan 6sp so if the Nissan shafts and Toyota shafts in my 2 boxes match up then we can all do the same mod to the j160, where reports of 500nm reliability is being said by Nissan guys https://neatgearboxes.wordpress.com/2014/04/16/nissan-silvia-s15-6-speed-gearbox-circlip-mod/

4agze throttle wheel ended up bolting straight up to the end of the carbs. Flipped the micro adjuster around the wrong way to suit the throttle side. I'll need to swap the micro adjuster screw and the spring thing around as its opening the second carb off the springer thinger

So I dunno what the previous owner did with the paint. Guy did a good job at painting it I'll give him that but it seems like maybe he stuffed up the hardener mixture?? Every time I cleaned it the sponge ended up red from the paint and the paint had got so thin primer was showing in places. I didn't want a Matt red car, nor dose glossy primer look to good either so met half way with Saturn clear coate. Happy with the turn out, needs a attention to take the Orange peal out but it miles better and most importantly it's sealed from the sun and weather so won't get any worse. Carbs are done and ready to go. Just need to sort throttle linkage and shorter trumpets/filters [url="http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspxi=3pyyr0xz.3rz.jpg"]http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=3pyyr0xz.3rz.jpg[/url] http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=dpw3j1r1.ta1.jpghttp://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=rvku0woh.oos.jpg http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=oruqm2rd.4yw.jpg http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=zy0c2ube.1vm.jpg http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=fceisd4b.0p2.jpg http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=odplyxc3.3xr.jpg

Up

Fresh dellortos for the duce! Gasket and Oring kit from palmside Venturies 32mm .8 emulsion 145 main 200 air 55 pump .2 idel emulsion 70 idel jet Matching up to the book I have a feeling the idle jets to big and the chokes should be 34's but we'll see how they run

Done will PM

"ATTTN roman I tried to PM you but you can't receive any new mail?? Inbox is full?? Hey dude I came across what looks like some old posts from you on toy mods?? I'm looking into doing a disk brake conversation on the rear and upgrading the front brakes to a vented disk and/or caliper off a cressda maybe?? I came across a post the was posted by a roman in west AKL and figured it was you? Said a f series rear from a RA40 bolts straight into a a6?? And possibly an altrzza diff into said axel?? Did this work?"

Cheers dude but I've already got a ZE in my other car. Their might be some odds and ends I need but I'll grab thought as I need them

Yeah true but like you say.. Novelty factory haha That and I bridged the solenoid in the AW and the response with the throttle was awesome! Ah right! Yeah I'm trying to make the most of it while I can haha

Cheers! Nice to get some love haha Since I won't be retaining AC either I can wire the SC clutch up to the AC switch too and change the A to a S haha Want to keep it road friendly and good for road trips so will help on gas when we're not giving it some

Haters gonna hate haha ?? Me spending my money or you on yours?

Took it to beach hop, runs well 3A definitely didn't cut it up the hills. More I drive it the more I want to keep it oldschool, thinking how I can get the 4agze in there and keep it looking factory..

Picked up a AA60 coupe. Girl friend promptly named it something girly ha It's pretty dam tidy with very little rust. I made s point of pulling plait off to feel around and it's pretty sweet. Motor runs mint, clutch would have been done not long ago, interia all there and good con, coupe little strainers here and there. Full digital dash 3A T50 (22 spline I'm told) Small axel One very open diff And a truck ton of body roll. Will be left standard for a while. Plans of SSR mk3's New fixed shock and spring combo all round to get it low and stiff Lock diff or LSD And swap the 4agze out of my aw11 into it once the 7A finally goes in //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52439-ashs-a6-carina-coupe-lyfe/

This sounds awesome man! Yeah that what I figure. Why pay +1000 for a pidly lcd screen when you can spend less and have a bigger full colour screen that can be touch screen to flick through the guages and data log pages. Possibly even incorporate a lap timer onto the screen

I did wonder about this. Ecu's already got good maps but I don't see why I couldn't copy them then update to G4 and copy them in. As far as I'm aware there's some things that won't move over so would still need to set some things. I'll plug it in and see how many inputs I've got free. It's looking like I'll get a tablet with windows on it and load up nothing but the link software to save on space/processing, and maybe save some background things onto a USB and leave the tablet in permanently.

Seems cool but after getting all the sensors it'll add up to around 500. I know that's not much but it's 500 that could go else where Might be able to pick up a second hand display and logger for the link for that price