Tender Raisin

Does anyone Know if crack tested items that are going for cert need visible identification on them to prove they have been for the crack test?

Look at link below for the example i am talking about.

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/54436-removing-paint-on-a-sticker/ 

Any help appreciated thanks.

The form from the crack testers states that the welds on the "components with the serial number (insert serial number)" were crack tested.

I am guessing that without the serial number being visible on the casing now that they can not be verified as the exact components that were tested when going for cert.

May need to add to cert questions thread to get this confirmed. 

I have purchased some modified and crack tested adjustable front struts. All the paperwork is there from the crack test, but at a closer look when i received everything, i realized the paperwork has a picture of the base of the strut with the sticker on it for identification purposes.
(pic below white sticker)
 

 
Now upon receiving the strut i have noticed the sticker has been painted over.
(pic below grey is primer black top coat)
 

I tried to slowly scrape a corner to see if i could have any success but thought i would see if anyone on here might no of some wizardry that could help me, before i ruin it and have to take them to get re-crack tested.

Thanks

Mike

Mate that starlet is on point good job.

Just curious what paint/underseal did you use and how much prep did you do? 

Saw this on the "1G Engine community" facebook page today.
 

The prototype M6A Mazda Carol Presto R60 Rotary Coupe "RX1"...Powered by a single-rotor version of the Capella 12A engine called the 6A (573 cc x 1) and producing 60 ps @ 6500 rpm, and was capable of 165 km/h while only weighing 500 kg

I had mine done by Surfab, he did them the exact same as Freshs GX71 and a few other ones over the years. This was the first time he had a problem with it.

Hmmm thats not a great sign for me then as i was planning on getting in touch with Surfab to get mine done... and im guessing it was being certed at Christchurch?

Just had a look on Freshs Build thread to see how his were done and it looks like they weren't plug welded maybe this could be why?

(picture from his thread)

But this is from 2012

Just saw this.... do the really sell for that after sitting in a paddock for 10 years?
 

I wasn't to sure where i was to post this... but its here now.
 
1981 Porsche 924 gtr, with 109 original kms.
 
 
 
 
more here;
 
http://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/customs-classics/81323838/rare-1981-porsche-924-gtr-racer-was-stored-in-firstfloor-attic

Hi All,
 
Just curious if you re-drill holes for coilovers can this pass a cert/wof or is it weakening the structure and a big no-no?
 
photo as example:
 

Heading off topic slightly sorry but i have never heard quite what happens with vehicle registrations lapsing.

So if you don't re register your vehicle straight away you back pay your registration correct? So you update your car registration 1 month late (dont have reg for one month on said car), when you buy another 6 months you will technically only get 5 months from that date onward?

Is there a date where it then lapses....like if it isn't registered for 12 months then does it lapse?

Also with reg on hold what are the rules around this?

If someone could just message me a link to where i can find info about this it would be much appreciated rather than cluttering this thread.

Thanks

Woah that was to close, was going to re-reg mine tonight....

Same savings for my corona $238-$153.

Looks like i will wait till July before i do another year.

I will try to get along.... if you hear raging lifters it will be me. 

every 1geu ever has noisy lifters. most people just deal with it hahahh. will still run for ever.

Yea haha i know they all tick but just lts just been getting louder and louder, and when you can hear it over your standard speakers it becomes a tad frustrating sitting in traffic with it echoing off the car next to you  .

So Hydraulic lifters confirmed as culprit...haven't checked the oil pump yet though, it could also be apart of the problem.

So the next step is dealing with the problem haha....Should i:

a) use an engine oil flush or something along those lines to try and clean it up a bit inside and through in new oil (drop the oil thickness) and mix in some mbl8. See if that makes a differance and for how long....

b. so someone mentioned to me bleeding hydraulic lifters... has anyone done it? does it fix the problem? or is it just a waste of time?

Re the oil. It would sound OK once it's hot on a long drive but will be too thick for the engine

Better to put in the recommended stuff

 

Any-one know the recommended oil off the top of their head? as for oil gauge i will check tonight.

These engines tick but usually go away once warm, mines pretty bad to, you can buy this stuff called mbl8. These are just rubbish engines

Yeah I was going to try that stuff next but thought i would ask here first before going straight to the temporary fix.

not easy to distinguish where exactly its coming from more mid and rear of the engine close to the top near rocker cover... its a bit of a cunt as its echoing off everything...

Why 20-50, thought it would be worth a crack to see if thicker oil would help....thought it did during the drive to Cromwell.... but im back to square 1. Im no motor expert so i wouldn't know.   

There usually is a whine as the key is being turned in that area

Alright so i have a 1983 Toyota Mk ii corona with a 1g-eu....auto.
 


 
1st problem-Starting.
 
Around a month ago my car just decided not to start (wouldn't even attempt to turn over)...Starter contacts got a freshen up and i thought all was good. But it still occasionally will not turn even if warm? are there any tips or tricks any one knows or what could fix my problem or had something similar before. On one occasion on my way to Toyota Fest a few weeks back, I had been driving for 2 hours pulled over for 5 minutes... went to start it...didn't turn over... gave it a minute tried again and started first go? (car was in park haha)
 
2nd problem-ticking / knocking
 
So i will let this video explain my problem.

So it started ticking occasionally 2 months ago then started ticking more often.... re-done the oil put in 20-50, and drove 1000ks in one weekend (from Christchurch to Cromwell and back for Toyota Fest) without any ticking (I have only driven it 2500ks over the last 10 months)....after that weekend  it started ticking again. This is the worst it has been so far.

So anything i should really check? Is it rooted and should i just give up on it and start a project build thread and find a 1g-ge and manual conversion haha?

Any help is appreciated, Thanks Mike.

Possibly, i have a standard green corona posted in a comment on the f.b page....

Im 50/50 however at this stage due to starter motor issues 

Thanks guys,

Yeah harder springs and new shocks are on the cards for a few months time. Was just curious about them. 

Not sure if this is the place to post this but owell....

Does anyone know anything about air shocks?

I have a gx61 corona with air shocks in the rear. There is a tyre valve near the tow bar which is (as i have been told) used to change the shock air pressure.

Does anyone know what PSI these should be at or anything of the sort? Im just curious as travelling with 4 people in the car the mudflaps drag on the ground. 

Any help appreciated thanks.

 

 

Is anyone tried to register on the Toyota page? I've had no word back.

I Submitted mine almost two weeks ago and am yet to here anything.... they seem to be a tad unorganized.

They only provided the information for the event 6 weeks before the date. 

 

 

I'm running a run down from Christchurch on the 18th

Is this the one on facebook?

I was planing on trying to crawl my corona over the Lindas for it....will be a good challenge