Jump to content

moorepower

Members
  • Posts

    78
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by moorepower

  1. I decided a crate motor was going to work out cheaper than rebuilding the 283 so I bought a 350 with a TH350 transmission. I got a mild cam and had it all dyno tuned. Made 300hp and 400nm which is not going to break any land speed records but it should get it moving along pretty well

    post-19436-0-70343800-1456773686_thumb.jpeg

    post-19436-0-13229200-1456773714_thumb.jpeg

    post-19436-0-65559600-1456773727_thumb.jpeg

    post-19436-0-98306800-1456773866_thumb.jpeg

    post-19436-0-59606400-1456773877_thumb.jpeg

    • Like 4
  2. Oh yea that's the easy part, obviously divers aren't eating 3000psi air. But the regulator will be one way right? so you need to add check valve & extra tee fitting if you want to use it as steelies suggested? (ie normal bag tank when empty) didn't say it was impossible, just seems extreme on a normally driven road car.

    You wouldn't want to do this, its not practical. When you decide to get the dive tank refilled at the dive shop, you need to remove it from the car. Chances are they are not going to do it on the spot when they are busy (I know this, I dive as well) so while you wait you will either need to wait for hours in their car park while they refill you tank. Or the better option, drag the ass off your car around town while you wait  8) OR you would own two tanks.

    There seems to be a stigma around the dive tanks, that they are for hopping. Yes, you can get them to (kind of) hop, but you can also regulate the pressure coming out to what ever you want, in my case it will be below 200PSI so it will fill the existing 3 gal tank quicker and the compressor wont have to come on. If you fancy the hopping tho, just get hydros, they are way more fun, you can get more lift and you can three wheel! 

     

    I am going to do the engine driven compressor eventually, but like others have said, the dive tank is a stop gap until then as I have all the parts and it will work in conjunction with the system I have. 

     

    Do you have space in the engine bay for a couple of small tanks, it doesnt have to go in the boot. You could fab them up from alloy.

  3. Cletus, Can you give me a bit more info on the York set up? How did you go about lubricating the pump?
     
    Rookie- With the 3 Gal, I can get the car up off the ground with one lift but it will be pretty low, The 3 gal is pretty small, but perfect for what I wanted because it is tucked up above the fuel tank and it fits with mm to spare.
    I dont know what pressure my tank is at, I haven't had a gauge set up on the tank.

    I think the pressure sensor is 0-200 PSI so it wont be more than that.

    I run an accuair VU4, they are really good systems. They include almost everything you need to bag a car, except gauges for each corner, which you will require for a cert here in NZ. I bought two dual needle gauges which I am yet to set up properly. (Im trying to hide them in the old glove box with the new stereo, I dont want them on show)

    • Like 1
  4. I use a 3 Gal air tank. It will only lift the front, then it needs to refill to lift the back. My car is pretty heavy tho with a V8 up front.

    I have been looking at the idea of doing an engine driven compressor using an old ac pump but it is a little tricky as you need to set up an oiler. Refrigerant contains oil which lubricates the compressor. I use one 480cc compressor at the moment, I could go to two, but to be honest, I hate the noise and I am just going to throw a scuba tank in the boot, pull apart an old nitrogen regulator that I have and connect it into my existing tanks. This should give me about 50 full car lifts (apparently) before I need to refill the scuba tank.

    My boot can probably fit 8-10 more bodies in it than yours tho, so Im not fighting for real estate. 

    Have you looked into Ridetech shockwave struts? Im not sure if they make anything similar to your struts.

    • Like 1
  5. Im going to re float this post. Im pulling my motor out soon and want to give my engine bay a bit of a tickle up.

    I have 50 year old yanky greasy dirt stuck to the crossmember about an inch thick. Ive got rusty metal around my brake master cylinder where years over leaky fluid has eaten away the paint. I think quick and easy is out of the question for me.

    Can I get away with degreasing the engine bay,running over it with some Roloc discs, sanding it back, priming where needed and respraying with my car colour in a rattle can?

  6. oh man, i dont think you'll be finding anything for $30 a week

    I have had two different single garages over the years that I have rented for $30 p.w for business storage.

    One was in Newmarket, one was in Lynfield.

    Depends if someone has unused space and can do with the extra cash...

  7. Hi Guys

     

    Im looking for a place to store my impala over the winter months.

    Willing to pay money/ beer up to the value of $30 per week or 2 doz lion reds, which ever comes first.

    For 30 bux I would expect the creme de la creme of vehicle storage; a la weather tight & lockable.

     

    (Obviously the cheaper the better, and I can do a contra deal on electrical work, if you have a shed that needs pimping)

     

    The catch is the car cannot be moved as the old donk has been pulled apart and it is 5.5 metres long...

     

    Cheers

     

    Luke

×
×
  • Create New...