Jump to content

M M

Members
  • Posts

    589
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by M M

  1. 13 hours ago, dave said:

    just keep your bumpers on. no bumpers only kinda works on mk1s imo

    I agree with this, though I've seen maybe one or two kind of pull it off. The problem is the Mk2 has a big recess for the bumpers where as on the Mk1 the bumpers sit in front of the body. So when you remove them it doesn't look like anything is missing.

  2. 8 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said:

    OK, one step closer to being able to paint. I bought a second hand Iwata W400 with LV2 cap, which is 1.3mm.

    I'm now trying to figure out what kind of paint I should use, I thought that 2K was a no no at home, is this correct?

    I want to paint the car white, but unsure if I should go with a single stage or base with clear?

    I will be doing door jams and lots of fibreglass as well. 

     

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Not sure about the laws on 2k, I have sprayed it at home but I would imagine it would be frowned upon as it is apparently very bad for you and you shouldn't even let it touch you skin. That said I am still alive and functioning, but for how long, I can't say. However I was out of breath for a couple of days afterwards, which I didn't quite realise the extent of until I went to training the next day and almost passed out. I was spraying outside with a mask, so make sure you get a very good mask.

    Single pack should be fine as long as it doesn't contact fuel as fuel eats it quick, so be careful when filling the car up. I've always felt more comfortable spraying a clear even if over a gloss paint just for protection if nothing else. But you can go just single stage if you want.

  3. On 26/01/2017 at 19:45, Carsnz123 said:

    Right going to have to cancel the order of sharp stabby things. So the lack of a strong metal thing protecting my engine and radiator wont be an issue.
      

    On a Mk2 it will be an issue because the front bumper is also what the bolts bolt into that support the front engine mount. So be aware you are going to have to find a solution for that, be it cutting the bumper brackets off and bolting them up or whatever.

  4. After months of the car sitting and months of me being away, on Sunday I finally managed to find the issue. The coil negative wire (which goes to the ecu, the ecu grounds it to create spark) joins up and splits of at one point to go to the ecu and to the diagnostic connector. There is a ground wire from factory at the split off, grounding the coil. So this means the coil is constantly grounded, and was causing a short. I have no idea why it's done like this and how the car was running before, but as soon as we cut the wire the car fired right up. I checked my other wiring harness and it had the same thing. And now with my new ECU, everything is working including the fuel pump relay and ICV. Even fixed the slight miss it had.

    Drove the car home on Sunday night, yesterday afternoon the v-belt for the waterpump and alternator snapped. Luckily I noticed something was going on and pulled into a side street. Opened the hood to find the snapped belt (which looked to have also flipped beforehand) sitting there. So called up a friend who arranged one to get to me and I changed it then and there. While waiting I took the opportunity to take some new photos. Should have some more updates for this car coming up soon.

    31753393335_3606684349_b.jpg

    31637270921_dde4171b5d_b.jpg

    31753392045_2e285edbbc_b.jpg

    31753392795_ca471c29d4_b.jpg

    • Like 9
×
×
  • Create New...