johnny.race

No Clint, that head was (still is here, lol) a 9" That axle above is from an 8 and 3/4 Chrysler. This will bring warmth to your soul as it did mine, Clint ... Chryslers did the damage in both cases. Both early Hemi's, both with 671's but don't quote me on that because I know there was an 871 in the mix with one of them - but unsure if it made it onto the engine. Glides and mechanical fueling ... you know the story mate - direct drive black belt shit. I love axle talk too. I like hearing about other peoples experiences and passing on my own. Its a specialist area for sure and one where all sorts of shit can happen. Over the years of doing this sorta stuff, I have formed some conclusions about things based on what I have done, seen and read. These are my people. Churr

No, you are right, Brick. He's a very close bro. He looked after my whare' and whanau when I used to contract offshore. But he knows the rules about shed space. He has his own shed. I'm a half caste too. I deride all colors and castes equally, lol!

30 Spline. Yeah, they are big. They are bigger than a 28 spline 9" or BW is, and probably close to the same diameter as an OEM 31 Spline Bronco 9" one might be? Being short makes them look a fat too. but they are reasonable sized axles even in OEM form. I am in the diff business bro, they only bring their diff shit here - not their cars. The first problem with Cut to Fit (ctf) axles is the fact they have 30 little stress risers and 30 little troughs where the material has been removed - running down and away from the business end.

No. I reckon there is more to it.

I've been to that place you talk about. It is my experience you'd wanting to be revising your figure from say 5mm down to somewhere between 1 - 1.5mm max though if you want to retain any semblance of factory engineered strength about things. It is further my experience that heat treating any OEM axle and expecting a win is snake oil. Just my thoughts bro. The shiny outer is the depth of case hardening, the dull stuff - not so much.

This came in from out of a bro's car. There is a lesson here for those attempting to skimp in an area than rarely takes prisoners when it decides its had enuff of you. The only way his bacon was saved was through adherence to a scheduled maintenance/regime. This was picked up then. He was using these (wayy) outside of their intended design application as can be seen by the various other bits and pieces that came in with it. Yup, a Cut to Fit 8 and 3/4 MoPar with aftermarket bearing. Check out the drive studs in the flange. When they get this big they are not wheel studs anymore. When they are this size, they fill all of the hole in a mag wheel hole and use hardened washers and nuts to secure the rim. The studs are about the only serious parts of the entire assembly :)) Lol! I've cut a few of these over the years. It doesn't matter what brand they are, they (for the most part) all cut the same. I feel there is a difference between carrying out machine work on cut to fit axles compared to doing the same thing to OEM factory stuff. Some of these cut to fit ones have not much better than silver cheese in the middle of them. I don't think anyone guarantee's them for off road use. I dunno what this one was like in the center as he only brought it in to show me and for me to assist him with measuring up for the new ones. He originally wanted me to cut and untwist ... nahhh!! He stumped up for some through hardened ones and didn't fuck around.

This has been done to death. Cheers to the clip. I knew you'd been in there with your fly cutter bro, hehe. I'd love to see a pic of those spacers when you can, @flyingbrick Its not an aftermarket retainer is it? The reason I said 9 holes and a register was so that whatever factory design engineering went into the BW - it could be replicated on the Ford. I measured an earlier bracket than yours (but same application) and it came in a 7.5mm thick. Yours looks thicker than this. Hmmmm. Anyway, ta for your post.

Can use 304 instead of 308, I've used both and there is no real difference I could see. Here is the thing about all of this stuff ... hardened toyo Iron does not respect any cutting tool, hehe. They are all rounded off the same after the first couple of splines. Its sounds like Dad is going to have a go at it with a single point cutter? Tell Dad that he needs to cut splines that are 90 degree's (included) and that this will give that to him ie. 45 degree's on each side of the vertical = 45 + 45 = 90. You cunts know all this. Tell him not to sweat it re the cutter having a sharp point as long as its a 90 degree include one. It can't be too sharp if you know what I mean. This is a shortened 28 spline BW78 axle modded to fit a narrowed 9 inch. Behind it is a momento from an absolute beast!

I wonder if that spacer you talk of featured 9 holes and a register? Because if it didn't (and don't get me wrong - I respect the hell out of Mr Rattrie) it would make for an inferior fit up compared to what BW came out with in OEM form. An adapter plate would more accurately describe it. But after having a good look at things and understanding what is involved - I would not be a fan full stop for removing any material from an already light looking aluminum caliper bracket. I would be interested to see how stuff like that actually goes through cert.Sorry @flyingbrick nothing personal, just saying what I reckon about things.

oh fuck - sorry. Its a little square Kyocera one .... i don't have the number on me but can get it if you need. Its a bolt through one. About 1 cm square and probably around 5 or 6mm thick. I go through the expensive little fuckers but ..... they are wayyyyy cheaper to use than HSS and all the blunt hassles that come with its use. I am not a machinist ... no formal training or anything. Self taught. Asked heaps of q's to the right peeps. Passion and perseverance will match formal training IMHO.

Its not a very good pic but you'll get the idea. Its a home made one. Is supposed to mount 4 index-able tips but only does 3 now, lol! Cuts 90 degree included angle. Is the fucking business.

Cheers bro, this is what I have always thought. And ta for the pics. An eyeopener for sure. I bet those fuckers don't grow on tree's anymore.

@flyingbrick Cheers man. Plus I am guessing that center hole has been bored out too? I know its been awhile, haha. But I'd like to know please (sometime) I'm just trying to get my head around part of my chosen craft that I don't have much to do with. The OD of a small bearing ford is roughly 72mm where as the BW comes in at 65mm I measured today. So i am wondering what you might have done/did. a.

@flyingbrick Did you make your own luck bro? How come there are more holes showing in that caliper bracket when its mounted on your diff than when they were laying on the carpet? Did that center hole have to be made larger also? I have no small bearing ends here to check so had to check the BW against specs stated by aftermarket. It might be doable but its certainly not bolt on. Just saying from what I can glean from what i have and what I read. The bolt holes are near spot on but the bearing on the small Ford is larger than the BW and then there is the brake offset thingy. ( I actually measured and guessimated that a 13mm wide spacer might make it all work but then its only a theoretical guess) Would like you to clarify things for me so I am clear on matters. I still reckon its an urban myth for the most part but need (lol! - Need) to know the details. Its a passion of sorts.

@yetchh Mate, I reckon that from just looking at the calipers in the pics - yours and mine ... they are different beasties and won't interchange. I'm guessing this anyway.

I went looking today. I found set of exactly the same setup as that guy on TM is selling as a straight bolt on to a 9 Inch. The rotor specs in at being DBA 109. This equates to this setup coming from a BW78 that came out in an XE or an XF. They could also be from an XD and i measured wrong due to their only being 1mm difference between DBA 108 (for the XD) and this one DBA 109. I found some housing ends that have come 9 Inch Fords and from off pre AU coons. The one on the left is the BW item. The pair in the center are the big (early) bearing housing ends that use the 1/2 studs. The pair on the right is another pair of big bearing ones but that use the 3/8 studs so is a little big later/newer. Fat chance the little BW end is going to fit any of those big bearing Ford ends. Bolt on my arse.

@flyingbrick Mate, how big is that bearing hole in those caliper brackets (if you could) Cheers.

No mate, not had anything to do with them actually. But ... I do have one in the pile from memory. I grabbed it after I saw how well your one turned out and read something saying that it was pretty much well the replacement for the 9 Inch. So I got one with the best intention to pull it apart and learn about it ... but never did. So yeah bro.

Mate, ta for this. Are they the same caliper but fitted with different handbrake system? @yetchh

I posted these yesterday to their new owner. Hilux KUN Axles, narrowed, resplined, 4 x 108 PCD, 3 inch wheelstuds and flange sized to fit into a given rotor spec. They are destined to spend their life inside a race/club car that does Puke (for sure) and Hampton (probably) They feature some of the best spline work I have turned out in a while. Beautiful fit. Just slide - no slop. I am a rear end specialist. Lol!! Took yonks to get there though. Hope he is happy. Notice the dark (witness) marking on the flange face ... I left max amount of material in the flange for strength. KUN's have a different spigot diameter than the normal 2WD luxer axles from the earlier models. Its stepped (the spigot) also. Only the top bit was machined in order I could key off the diameter to set up the DRO. Fuck yeahhhh!! I sourced these axles straight from a yard down here for him. I made sure the truck these came out of had not been hit in the bum (you'd be surprised what a hit in the bum can do to a diff and especially one from a hard or jolting roll over) and also took note of which axle came from which side. This will allow the owner to fit the appropriate axle into the appropriate side so the axle doesn't receive a surprise when its asked to start turning in the opposite direction to the one its always turned in. You cunts don't dwell on this stuff aye. Fuck I doooo!!

A quick questionnaire for you Mr Brick. Caliper design - integral handbrake mechanism or is it the 'Banksia' type ie. has a little brake shoe setup happening inside the rotor? Caliper position - front or rear? Rotor design - solid or vented? Are you saying that to your knowledge and based on what you can see ... there has been no modification to your diff and it looks like the entire setup is bolt on up and let rip? I'd love a pic of yours if you could. Especially showing where the backing plate bolts to the diff housing. Cheers.

Mate, in your pic I can see partial view of the calipers. Where is the handbrake on them? A little drum setup inside the rotor or integral to the caliper? Judging from what I know of BW backing plate styles .... these ones look like they are the type that locate the mechanism inside the rotor. But I stand by to be advised differently if this is not the case. But of note though, they position the caliper towards the rear and not towards the front like all of the BW's I've pulled apart have had (that feature the later style calipers (the ones sans handbrake mechanisms)) The earlier type of caliper that featured the integral handbrake all faced rearwards OEM. When they changed to the little drum setup inside the rotor - the caliper went to the front. I'm rambling aye? Lol! At last ...a fucking diff thread!!!!!!!!!!!! I am foaming.

God damn @pusherman look what you started! @yetchh bro ... is that your setup in that pic? Would it be possible to let me see some detail (a little closer) please. The part I'd like to see (initially, lol!) is a closer shot of the backing plate. I tried to zoom in but it got blurry. I am going to rummage through shit today and have a look at things I know I have and report back. Cheers.

Bro, I have probably built them! 100% of the disc braked 9"'s I have built/sold have been like you have just mentioned - I have chopped off the OEM big bearing ends and welded on BW ends. I wouldn't be doing it this way if I knew I could fit a set of BW ones on without the balls aching task of chopping off the ends. I'd be interested in seeing a pic of your setup bro. Always keen on seeing/learning about this sorta stuff.

Yeah re them having their own setup ... this is what came to mind when i saw that pic of a supposedly OEM Ford Facon 9 inch brake setup. What I am suggesting though is .... that that XD caliper (or whatever its off) that guy is selling, will not bolt up to that afore mentioned OEM setup. I am saying they are different beasties altogether and don't swap over. Ie, that BW disc brake setups don't bolt onto any OEM Ford 9 Inch - yank or ocker. I'm guessing this based on what i have got, messed with, read and know. Tell me what you know bro.