johnny.race

Hey, it uses 3 liters per hour when in its sweet spot mode. Its actually 2.9 liters but its free so who's counting (there is a small cost of uplifting the stuff if you have not got free and unimpeded access to tons of the stuff though - but I digress) It afterburner mode (like in the clip) it uses 3.3 liters per hour. I've looked on TM and have looked at heaps of clips on youtube ... looked at their claimed rates of fuel usage of like 1 liter or 1 point something liters per hour fuel usage and resigned myself to the fact that not only was mine more 'rusticky' looking than theirs, but that mine also was never ever going to be as fuel miser as theirs either. It took me quite a while to get over this fact ... something like 2 seconds or enuff time to wip out a 'pffffft' when reading their claims    I came about the fuel rate usage by getting it up and running sweetly then diverting the feed line into a measured container and using a clock to count/measure. 

This is a ghetto build. There is no 'finesse' about this thing. The guy who got me into these things built his own one too. He used quite a finicky (to me) way to dispense the fuel but with increased scope for tuning. As a result, his one only runs on finely filtered oil, lol! We know because he tried to run his on the crap I run on and his blocked up, hahaha! Fuck we laughed   This one on the other hand .... this runs on unfiltered waste straight from the sumps and tanks of scrapped vehicles ... this thing spits and pops when lumpy shit goes through or antifreeze etc but seemingly takes it all in its stride. There is something to be said for rudimentary shed rat engineering I say.     

I am a clutz with modern tech. My phone is so old it doesn't have a camera (I get teased about it, haha!) I don't got a FB page or anything and this is the first time I have posted a vid clip to a message board. So bear with me ... This clip was taken the second time I fired it up and was never intended to be posted anywhere. I ran it for 7 hrs straight in order to see what it went like, to test my welds (lol!) and see if I could zero in on the tune. First up haha ... it sounds like a fuckin tractor in this clip (I knowwww!) but I was still coming to grips with understanding what it wanted/needed. When it started getting super hot and making the tractor sounds, I thought the fucking thing was going to vibrate to pieces, lol! Get a load of those flames though, eh? They are rounded. They are trying to get at the outside air whilst getting sucked back in to the combustion process (if that makes sense) there is some intense combustion going on in there  This is what flame looks like in an oxygen depleted environ I reckon. Big suck matched with big heat.

All this with no power plug lead required. Fuck yes! The other thing to check out too is the absence of smoke. Really - have a look at the top of the flue - nothing, nada zilch.

All bullshit aside and in simple terms ... I have determined that these things have a sweet window in which they run hot and clean. Either side of this is going to be either too lean or too rich. I have proven this to myself by finding a sweet spot in which i was happy with noise and smoke absence. I then slowed the fuel feed rate down (leaned it out) and got smoke and less heat. Did the same going the other way and got the same results but with a heap more smoke (and more heat) Each time I returned it back to the sweet spot and it was all good again. Don't give a toss what others have to say about tuning - this was my experience and observations with this badboy and it works for me.

The heat can be truly intense dudes. 

Since this clip, its been running sweet as. Next step is its installation. Original plans were for it to be installed inside the shed but I am not going to now. Insurance ... paranoid about an open flame in the shed, no balls yada yada. Instead its going to be installed in a closed off little enclosure next to the shed where upon i will duct the heat from it - inside. I was thinking of doing the thermo-syphon thing also but have not got the drop needed. But jury is still out on the entire installation thing. Churr.  

And it does not sound like a tractor anymore ... still makes some noise though but not loud or intrusive sorta sounds (incase you were wondering, haha)

http://vid528.photobucket.com/albums/dd329/race_hemi/P7240509.mp4

^ i have never understood why turrets mills are popular/common, on a horizontal+universal head everything is literaly 500x easier. i lumbered myself with the former only because it was for sale 500m down the road & cry everytime a dirt cheap hori comes up on tm as no cunt ever wants them/has realised how much better they are.

It might be because of the overhead gantry you need to lift that big arsed indexhead to re position it in order to present the axle flange to the spindle, lol. The indexer weighs as much as it does because its a substantial piece of iron due to it having a bore big enuff to take a reasonable size axle through its guts ... but yeah mate - agree. they go for not much more than scrap value which is a shame. I jumped on a HMT FN2U off TM a few years back and have it set up solely to do respline work. Its a rigid piece for sure and I love using it. I never tried using the turret for doing it (resplining) but after watching Youtube clips of respline work being carried out on Verticals - decided a dedicated Horizontal was a much more rigid set up that could be had for not a lot.

for the work in welding and drilling them it would have to be marginal vs. new axles for a 9"  I would think. it sounds easy but you could easily spend a whole day on it. what do new axles cost, could probably sell the old ones for some amount too?

Yip, you hit the nail on the head ... sounds easy but you could easily spend a day + doing a pair. If you want to get any sense of accuracy in the work then bench setups, dot punches and hand held drills are out of the question. You'll need a decent setup along the lines of hanging your axle off the front or rear of a mill table that is equipped with a DRO or friggin good hand dials. You'll forsake any previous setups and tramming when you swing the turret around to hover over the axle flange. Then you'll need to fuck around with your co-axial DTI to center everything up whilst hoping you have enough working height so as to be able to use the long indicator extension. Failure to get enough height will force you to use the short extension on the taper of the factory center drill hole - an act you always felt dodgy doing, lol!

And this is all after you have whispered to your lathe the word 'sorry' a thousand times as it shudders and jolts under the strain of interrupted cutting brought on by the now hardened weld material that you filled up the previously used wheel stud holes. You did your best to remove as much of this material as you could with your trusty angle grinder prior to chucking it up ... yeah sounds easy )) lol!    

I've done this before. I dunno how legit it is but there would be heaps of axles around with a different PCD than their respective OEM gave them. I've done a fair few Hilux ones and 9 inch ones. The Ford has 3 holes between the existing studs, aye? 1 bigger one and 2 nearly as big ones. The 2 smaller ones weld up and the bigger one gets a plug welded in prior to facing the lot off. I've welded up the big hole before but it puts a fair bit of heat (flange warping type of heat) into the flange I have found. Maybe this is just me but you'll see what i mean if you try it. I stick the first hole through the plug and this usually allows 3 of the other 4 holes to go through unfucked with flange steel. The last one (your mileage may vary) and there is always one, lol! Will be very close to a weld and probably into it a bit. I use colbalt and slow feed/speed to help going through this half and half bit of flange. You'll need to have a decent setup for doing justice to the new PCD. Something accurate and rigid. Heaps of guys have used a rotor (or real rough cunts - a rim) to locate the new holes. This is ok if you intend to run hubcentric wheels ... but can show itself up if you are a little bit off and you end up using rims that are located by the studs and not the hub. The reasons are self explanatory. 

Mattey, seriously - have a look at your axles again and see where he has chopped and blazed them back together again. He's obviously dressed it well or you are not up to play on what to look for. I respline axles for income and I'm telling you - those are not new splines in your pic. New splines cut into hardened axle steel glisten like the sun. Carbide has that effect on induction hardened steel. plus you pay through the nose for most machine work - especially spline cutting. I'm guessing they have been nipped in that shiny bit right by the shrink ring. Usually when an axle has been cut and welded - its done on the thickest part in order to get as much weld in the join as possible. I'm not knocking anything, just interested in this sorta stuff since I muck around whacking them down myself.

This is fantastic value if you got two axles resplined and a diff housing narrowed using an alignment jig for $350! At that price Karlos is around at least 4 or 5 times cheaper than the established custom width diff companies. 

What did he do to your axle? Cut and tuck it? Next time you have an axle pulled out, post a pic of the work? Always interested in how axles are shortened.

While you are measuring ... could you tell me what offset the pinion looks to be from center? If its possible for you. Cheers.

How wide is a OEM starlet diff out of interest (be precise, pse) By running out of hard material I take it you are asking if you cut into the axle shaft deep enuff - will it strike soft material. Ummm - yup on that mate. This is the problem that confronts dudes when picking an axle with a large shaft diameter on which they intend to turn down and cut a smaller than stock spline pattern on. For example ... I had visions of utilizing Falcon axles in a F type diff one time. I had looked at the F type axles and thought hmmm - chopsticks. Why don't I cut the F type spline on the coon ones then use the entire Falcon (BW78) hub/diff casing end and the big arse coon brake setup. But when I measured and determined the F type minor diameter (spline lingo) and compared it to to where the hardening depth ended on the coon axle - I'd have been cutting the splines on near where the coon axle reverted to butter in its soft inner center - if you know what i mean.

Its harded' to explain, lol!

But I've gone the other way ... i have cut a Hilux spline count onto a skinnier BW78 axle. I ended up taking near nothing off the coon axle prior to cutting in the splines. Its those axles with the blue background on my TM ad. I dunno how well they will work but should be ok. 

I know a little bit about Toyota axles ... I've cut and resplined heaps of them. I have not done an F type one but I've seen them before. I'm currently trying to get rid of 4 x F type diffs on TM for next to nothing. Those F series axles are skinny little fuckers aye ... 27 splines I think last time I counted. I was going to get into narrowing them but i have enuff trouble keeping up with Hilux and Ford ones than to be going dipping into other types. Re the steps in OEM axles, they are all case harded ..harded?? Hardened. Another name for this is Induction harded' The hardening depth is pretty consistent on a OEM axle meaning - it follows the contour of the axle. if the axle has a series of steps along its length, then the profile depth of case harded' (lol!) steel will mimic said steps. I've got pretty rigid (older) gear and some makes/brands of axles cut like butter. Other stuff like Nissssan are big munty hard as fuck lengths of iron that give my gear a workout.  

Cheers for info all.

Karlos from steel surgeon will do it n guartanee his work he has shortened t series diffs before up to 25mm with no problems !!

Will take diff out this weekend n get it away to him monday

25 mm would prob Be pretty close

Looking at this pic - 25mm overall meaning 12.5mm out of each side is going to make little difference aye? (That's if i understand it right) Try dropping a plumbob or some weighted string against the outermost part of the rim and measure from the string back to the guard lip. This measurement would be the minimum each side would have to move in to be WOFable(?) I don't know what he would be charging you to take an inch out but what ever it is - you would have paid it and still had a diff that would not pass a WOF when fitted with those rims. Maybe i am missing something, lol! Ask him to show you the jig he is going to use to ensure alignment of your diff is maintained. If it does not contain as part of it - a ke70 pumkin/carrier with dummy bearings as part of its makeup,then get him to explain to you how his work can be verified as being what you paid for. 

I think the diff(T-Series) I had shortened 25mm each side was from a corona. The problem with the original axles was that the diameter decreased just after the spline, so if you shortened it and cut more spline further down the shaft, part of the spline "teeth" will not be the full height.

Is that the problem you have?

I managed to find some axles from a different toyota at Pick a Part, that were a few mm larger diameter overall but same bearings, same number of splines and even 10-15mm shorter than my original ones. They machined that old spline diameter down and cut the new spline. 

I can't remember what I got the axles from though, it was 10 years ago. It was a Toyota something Wagon....

According to this:

http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/diffcompare.html

It might have been an E-Series axle. The GX61 wagon looks right.

Yeah this ^ I know a little bit about axles and stuff. Near all OEM axles step down after the spline for a short distance. The only way to respline in this area is to have it built up with weld first. Check out trader_84 on TM. His TM ad for resplined Hilux axles explains somethings about the axle resplining process. I know T_84 because I'm him and those pics of axles were taken out the back in my shed. I've never done a T series diff but are they the same as a Lite Ace or something? I got one here as well as some F series ones I am trying to unload. I was going to tool up to offer them in shortened form but it seemed too much work for the perceived return, so have just stuck to Hilux, BW78 and 9 Inch diffs. They are all 90 degree included angle stuff. I am not equipped for 60 degree spline cutting and don't intend to be. The other thing you need to watch out for is going to big arsed axles and then having to take too much off the diameter. Near all OEM axles are case hardened meaning its hard on the outside and like butter on the inside. I know how deep the various OEM axles are hardened to, and have examples of each type of axle i cut. I cut cold and stay well within the hard area so there is no need to pay for re-hardening. Putting a smaller diameter spline on a large OEM axle will see you removing all of the hard casing and working within the soft core area necessitating re-hardening. This is expensive and IMHO is hit and miss at best. Cheers. 

Cool shed bro ... but not big enuff, hehe. Really. I have one a little deeper and wider than your one and I could do with another bay or two, lol! You watch you fill this up. When I was at the stage you are currently at - I wish someone had of said to me to take some time thinking about 'work flow' ... and to put down a covered slab (carport style) in front of one of the roller doors. Sheds like the ones we have are friggin' heat boxes in the sun plus if you are doing grinding and stuff - it makes the hell mess over everything close by. I saved dosh by doing the same as you in terms of electricity line laying etc. I also got the electrician to show me how to place/lay/install the power flex cabling and put all that in myself so all he had to do was hook everything up. We catch a heap of water from off the sheds around here and use it for stock and garden watering. Another thing I regret not thinking about either during the early days was the installation of a waste oil burner/heater for winter heating. Too late now as I've got big arsed 3PH gear sitting around all the good spots for something like this. But yeah ... exciting times for you mate. Go well.

Name:Rue.

Location:Palmerston North.

Car:1957 GMC.

Mods: Ls1.

How found oldschool:web search about diffs.

Anything else?I respline axles and narrow diffs.