johnny.race

Has anyone had any experience putting 'toe in' into a live axle (diff)? Hows it done? How'd you measure it and how'd you go with it?

On 21/06/2019 at 12:37, igor said:

Sorry, forgot about this. Hope it is still of some use. Hole diameter one and five eighths inches as near as I could measure it. Width of top leaf two and a half inches. Would need to clear some junk out of the way to get more detailed measurements of the springs.

Igor, thanks matey. Stay warm.

57 minutes ago, cletus said:

Are you just after the spring seat brackets?

Mate, I have been asked of late if I could make spring hangers that feature a bit of drop in them. But I want to see what Fords ones  looked like in the flesh first, so yes ... I am in the market for them. Prefer an entire diff though.

1 hour ago, igor said:

Got a whole one here that I took out of my XC cos it was making bad noises. Can measure the hole size for you if that helps any.

Hi Igor, yep, I'd appreciate that please. That plus the width of the leaf spring pack hanging off your big Ford please. Ta.

Rear Leaf Springs on the XR - XW Falcons ... how wide were they? Did the XA - XC's utilize the same width? And the biggie .... what size was the location hole in the spring seat bracket on the diff? Has anyone got an early Borg Warner Diff housing from out of one of these cars that they would sell? Cheers. 

As long as you have a ring foundation of good reo bar around the perimeter of your shed, cracks in the middle don't really mean much. More shit thats over thought by some. Its just the rigid concrete coming to terms with a totally flexible mother earth. They make their peace over time with each other, the pieces fall where they may and the ring foundation reo keeps everything inside your shed. Nothing to see here.

Mate, my shed has some heavy duty gear in it. The load on the concrete would be way more in my normal work area than a car on a hoist me thinks. No problem seen in the concrete in this area.

I skimped on the concrete matey. It'd be 100mm everywhere except in the footing and around the poles. 10 yrs of reasonable use and nada. Just saying.

Yeah same I use this bay to park the mobile Knockshop' in. There is something to be said for having big arsed sheds. Most people who own these things leave them outside then wonder why they have corrosion problems.

There's always talk about the joys of having a clear floor, pfft. It'd be nice but are the downsides as big as some imply them to be? Not IMHO. I could see that it would be a pain if the hoist bay was in a single bay shed or your work model saw you utilizing the hoist bay as the main work bay (get a bigger fucking shed bro)... but if you are not trotting backwards and forwards over it all the time, yeah right. I own a pallet/jiffy thingy and I am telling you ... there are next to no loads you can't get over that hump if you go about things right. I shift on a semi irregular basis a 44g Drum that weighs on average 400 to 450kg of heavy. It sits on its own little custom pallet i made from fence palings and 4 by 2. Gets over that hump in 3 goes. Nothings insurmountable if you nut things through. Clear floor would be nice but ... yeah.

One of the bigger threats I saw to my hoist installation was the dually wheels of my bus, inducing shock loads as they bumped into, then climbed over the hoist cross member. To take the bite out of this I have two bits of fence paling there now and it really smooths out the traverse - both going in or moving out. Just cheap effective solutions in true OS manner for me.

This is what gave me piece of mind when i installed my hoist. I made a frame that works to prevent the start of any tipping or rocking movement of the hoist when its in use. To my mind, somethings got to move initially before it gets to the point of no return. This frame does it perfecto.

Hey man, yep yep re the concrete. I went through the same sorta thought processes. I am not a qualified anything but we are all the same when it comes to wondering what could possibly go wrong when installing a hoist into our sheds. I came to a different conclusion than you though. I've dropped motors out the bottoms and diffs from out the back of cars on the hoist. It upsets them matey. I reckoned there was room for backwards and forwards rocking so engineered my way out of it. Same same re what you were saying too - side to side stability. So engineered my way outta that also. I build a simple frame that gave my hoist wayyy more stability than what the maker designed into it. Pic to come. Simple robust and works sweet. 

14 minutes ago, Yowzer said:

My two poster at work stripped the thread out of the nut. Fortunately it had a redundancy that allowed it to be lowered and not drop the car. Would have been fun times otherwise

Yeah, this is what I was talking about. Most of these deals get sold on when they first start locking up. They don't go full collapse straight away usually. They start working erratically and i remember there was something that we used to do that increased the life of the nut a little bit more. But yeah given what i know of them - I'd never get one that used this way of lifting unless it was new or had had the nuts done. Just saying. 

2 hours ago, Kimjon said:

 ... Lead screw ... 

Be careful with this type of hoist. Their biggest problemo is the nut that runs up and down the lead screw. I don't know about your one in particular but in general the nut and screw ones all operate in the same way. The nuts wear then fuck out. If you know what you are looking for then you will be able to tell/measure how much wear its got and importantly - how much more wear its got before the nut collapses - and the whole thing locks up. When the nut collapses its generally when there is weight on it. No shit. You have a tonne and a half of car stuck a meter in the air, lol. You need to read up on how your particular one works. This is how they work. They are built this way to protect that expensive piece of ACME.

I wouldn't sweat about your concrete. The thing is not going to punch through the stuff to mother earth. I'd be worried about stability if i had suspect concrete more than anything. I'm talking about an uneven load causing the thing to rock - start pulling out those Dyna bolts sorta thing. The easy fix for that is to spread its foot print. We did this in my shed. Simple and works a treat and is RIGID as. 

On 12/06/2019 at 18:58, Kimjon said:

Just brought a Stenhoj 2 post hoist secondhand. Still has current test cert.

Any tips on installing these?

What sort magic does it use to lift the arms up? Hydraulic with cable and chain? Or electric driven lead screw with nut?

Yeah bro, I can square you away with this. Drop me a PM with what where when sorta stuff and we'll sort it.

I must be missing something here ... why is the head coming off before you have determined where you have a geometry and or bind problem? This sorta shit generally takes two people ... one doing the turning and the other armed with a flashlight and magnifying glass. Are these engines known to be problematic in terms of piston to valve clearance?  

What are you on about bud? How else do you take play out of a wheel bearing on a IFS on a RWD vehicle? I took it as the OP was talking about one of the fronts needing adjusting. It'd have to be because the rear ones on those are not adjustable.

27 minutes ago, sleeektoy said:

 ... Wheel bearings can sometimes be adjusted with the wheels on the car - if you can pop the outer grease cap off, you can pull the split pin and pull out ... adjust the nut till tight etc ... (I would however not recommend this be done .. ever) ...

Why wouldn't you recommend adjusting a wheel bearing this way, dude? Is there another way?

Spence, mate, are you familiar with the rear calipers from off ae82 and ae101's? Off the top of your head, do they feature a handbrake that is integral to the caliper like the ae92 does?

23 hours ago, Styles said:

... PM me your frame no ...

Mate, I have no frame number. I don't have the car - just its rear calipers. I adapted them to a 9" using Holden based blank rotors that I drilled to Ford. I like them (the calipers) so want to know where else they could be found.

Hi, I tried doing that but it said my browser thingy does not work with their cookies or something. I tried to reset them but failed. Fuck computers and pass me the spanner. Ta for your suggestion matey but .... is there anyone out there that has some hands on experience in this matter? Not with the fucking cookie monster in my laptop but these calipers. Ta.

I am familiar with what a rear caliper looks like from off a ae93 FXGT.

Question - does anyone know what other 'ae's this caliper was used on (if any)?

Ta.

10 hours ago, avengertiger said:

... most workshops wouldn't have the equipment or know how ...

This right here ^^

Most Hot Rod Shops (that actually build and/or repair cars - not just retail) will know where to get this kind of work carried out. As will most LVV Certifyers that have a rodding background. I got a set of spindles done one time by a guy who knew how to use a rod hone/resizing machine. They turned out mint. Because those things are tune-able to cunt-hairs in the thou, he did them undersize a tad so it felt like there was a smidgen of preload in there. Very nice. 

Nothing wrong with cubes and gearing matey. Fuck sensors and all that electronic-trickery stuff. People love V8's. They love the big noise .... they love the big racing. Stay in it. 

On 08/05/2019 at 15:56, Kimjon said:

 ... this is a big leap into a new world for me...technology. okay, its (OBD11) 30 year old technology, but I've only ever fixed motors with carburetors, not injectors...so it's new to me. Any electronic work was always happily palmed off to auto electricians

Fuck old new cars and their shitty electronics ...

Ahhhhh .... a kindred soul!! 

17 hours ago, Bling said:

Not sure how I fucked that up...

Since this post exists... $50 seems cheap as chips for a test. I was thinking $150 or so. I'm just hoping to finish off my rust work before it runs out. As it will be a double whammy with test and fill required. Tempted to change cylinder to argon mix, but I might be too stuck in my ways after using CO2 for so many years.

I paid a tad under $150 last time I had my bottle tested, but included with that they changed my regulator to their (Supagas) pattern(?) one. I did not see the price breakdown but the gist I got when speaking to Supagas on the phone was that they were doing it as part of the retest. Plus i don't know if the middleman (Techweld PN) clipped the ticket also. Murky fucking world for sure this one of Argon and Iron. 

This was in 2016, I just checked the transaction. On this ... I must have purchased the bottle (new) in around 2010 - 2011, so 5 yrs use then retest required. Pre then, I was one of BOC's sugar daddies. Never again. 

17 hours ago, Bling said:

If you don't have a 20,000L tank out back, you're paying too much per cube m9

Yeah but back in reality, the guy filling a D (or whatever) size bottle will be paying more per cube than the guy rocking up with a G will. I figured it out that I am paying $40 per cube for a G. 

Size matters mate. Much the same as I truly believe that paying less is going to make me a better welderer'

2 hours ago, Ned said:

.... and handy you live near a filling place

And these are the operative words. 

4 hours ago, Kimjon said:

... so what's not to like.

Everything if you are a owner bottler living in Palmy. And you won't be eating ice cream while you wait but you will need to own a tent if you want to try.

And while we are at it ... filling anything less than a G will see you paying too much per cube. just stirring saying.