rotormotor

FYI FD irons and housings are the superior items, Irons more meat to port for one.

Monster port Monday..

Billy foaming after his monster port on YT..

Yes.

Those are the inner measurements of the 2 outlets which marry up to the respective blower and heatercore units.

Deep google finds this part number 61 - 150  but discontinued 

And the LHD variant still available...option to cut and shut to suit my car perhaps lol.

Above & beyond @mjrstar

Unit length is 260mm so could cut and refix the flexy part.

Outlets as seen.

Close to a point..wonder if heatgun will give me a bit of shaping.

Garage 5 in chch sell a non AC box Mx5 duct, emailed my mazda parts guy too.

I asked G5  for some length and approx flange end sizing to see if can mod.

20 minutes ago, ul9601 said:

cowl air inlet->blower (i presume with an integrated fresh air/recirc valve)-> a/c->heater->air distribution thingy->ducts?

i just took the a/c evaporator/piping out and plugged them then put back in its place.

its p10 though.

Yes in  that order.

Not racecar, road legal.

Mx5 ac box delete is an item but bloody US as well.

I would assume most in NZ are JDM which likely came with AC.

Haynes manual states blower fan bolts onto this box but on thier passenger side (LHD) so the US angle wont be an option..sad because this fix is mentioned on US forums grr.

I'll ask my mazda parts man, but if it did exist as a part likely long discontinued.

Seeing as my aircon engine bay unit is deleted make sense to remove the underdash radiator and  housing box.

Fan feeds thru this box to dashvents, inlet/outlet don't line up.

Options..

Seal the gas lines/drain hole and refit unit.

Mock up some plastic sheet and foam tape to make a more direct path inside box  and refit unit.

Delete box and make a new duct (something heatgun shapable?) between the outlets.

Area approx 150mm diameter and box is 230mm H/W/L

Ideas? cool to see box gone as takes up a lot if realestate not that I require the room

CHEERS

My engine builder said 

" Normally it's lack of coolant and I would replace ( if irons cracked). Not worth a dodgy repair taking everything out.
I'd be putting it down to corrosion, rusty coolant passages my guess "

Are you getting a bespoke bonnet skin made up on the ute frame to suit the 3 nosecone?

My irons were all mint with no corrosion so I got lucky it seems.

Welcome to rebuild time 

Mr Hol on rebuild #5 is it on the van?

Hopes he sorts the major lack of compression and excessive oil consumption...

Madaz manual..

Thanks soo much, really good info here champ @vk327

Admit I not know the jargon used tho nor which IAT suits.

Link Storm I'm using  has 2x knock inputs

Ricks tattooed son on pawnstars is a rotary fan?

Hand tatt.

On 04/04/2024 at 09:36, 87creepin said:

Along with new sensors, would new connectors be a good idea too? If the car is old. Shouldn’t be too expensive. 

New loom with ECU so be new plugs.

I'll price up new OEM factory sensors, means replacing in future easy.

Pockets not deep enough huh 

Guess you seen the fender bolts on Jays channel?

Can I assume the ute was dropped off to a certain well known airbrusher in Feilding?

Nearly have all the loom sorted/removed in engine bay..not yet found the wire for the factory dash boost gauge..grrr.

Anyways pic of latest parts precurement.

Trick NZEFI coil set, spendy injectors which don't match my colour scheme in any way,  fuel line AN fittings  & braided hose set, Spal puller fan, lightened flywheel, Cusco numberplate relocate just cos was getting their brake booster shocktower mount (YT vids says it makes a better pedal feel) , OEM heater line cis less hassle clean my one with corroded outlets and this match colour scheme, turbo oil feed line and Works Bell short boss kit...need a second kmart bin..