AALAWS

Progress!! No pictures but the local metal magician came round and made up some patterns for the floors. 
It's not much but it's a start for sure. Excited to see things underway. I have also got a booking for early next year at Bad Penny in Hamilton so they should be able to sort out all the rest for me if the old boy can't finish it off.

Cheers Guys - I am booked in at Bad Penny for the start of next year, in the mean time one of the local metal magicians has posed in today to make some patterns for the floor.....finally some progress!!

Hi Guys

My goal was to have my KE25 painted by the end of the year.....but the local guy I was lining up to do the body work has no room/time despite me telling him I wanted in at the start of the year (Facepalm).....anyhoo

I have repair panels and would like a decent job without resorting to a tonne of bog - is there any good OS recommendations in the Waikato? I'll need to drop it off from Otorohanga.
I'd like to get it all straight and primed so I can mock up the engine and running gear - then I'll get it painted locally.

Cheers

Met a GC who works there and says he has a few spares lying around I could look at from his KE20 sedan.....score
Then I got a phone call from another GC who found my wallet after it fell out of my pocket outside the bakery......right when I was looking for it in a panic......PHEW!

Off to the sandblaster with the 2nd shell tomorrow - finally have some down time and good weather in one go. 

My plan is to drop it straight off to the Panelbeater but I don’t have the budget to get it fully panel beated and painted in one go so I’m trying to figure out the best plan.  What’s everyone’s thoughts on breaking it down into the best steps?

If I get all the rust repaired and all the body work straightened out, prime it and underseal then take it home while the engine is built, it will be sitting in a primer state - I’ve heard it isn’t good to leave it sitting in primer for a while?

I’d be keen to hear some advice on the best process/steps from here without too much back and forth between workshops etc

Cheers y’all

So I got half a day in the shed.......boom! empty shell all ready to get blasted.

And a T50 turned up. It is supposedly of known good condition, and it has a new clutch fork and release bearing....plus already shiny!

If I get a few quiet days I can suss out getting it off to the blaster and then panel shop.

On 08/01/2019 at 17:30, AALAWS said:

 I just need a half day to pull the last few things out of the shell to get it blasted and then it's off to the panel beater for some major progress.

turns out I need more than half a day......

Everything is off the shell (apart from wheels etc) except fuel and brake lines and a few odd's and ends, so I'm almost happy.......
Hopefully should get it done this weekend. I've set myself the goal of having the car fully painted by the end of the year.

Ok, so it took 4 months, but I finally got some time in the shed again over the last week.
Between three kids and business being really busy.......and a stupid set of bunks I refurbished instead of buying new ones (such a time suck!)

.....I finally got there and stripped out the doors and only found the slightest rust and the lock holes smoothed over. Will take these back to metal soon.

A mate is a diesel mechanic and was doing some odd jobs at the workshop and helped me out with a few things.

Rear bearings pressed
Front hubs bearings replaced and new discs fitted
Rear callipers completely pulled apart (and then painted along with a few other bits)
Diff housing seals fitted and cleaned up ready to be assembled
 

So now all 4 callipers are ready to be fully assembled (again - minus shit paint), along with the diff and the entire front subframe - all ready to go in the car once the shell is at the panel shop. I just need a half day to pull the last few things out of the shell to get it blasted and then it's off to the panel beater for some major progress.

I've never been one to genuinely pine after any specific cars, and if I did I always considered ones that may be possible for me to own IRL.
Saying that, some of the above offerings sent me on a google image hunt to try and create my perfect teenage dream garage!

This is what I am currently building.....

and one of these with a JZ looking all staunch floats my boat.

I would love to get my hands on one of these Euro R Accords and maybe 2K cup it.....

And a SiR Mugen accord and a prefacelift Inx Si Prelude would be rad (primo versions of cars I previously had)

As would a badass twin turbo 300zx or it's classy older cousin....

The Mrs currently drives an e61 530i Motorsport and I'd love to trade that for a M5 Version!

Then add a few more bright red Mcars to the collection

Here's one that is dreaming but would take a X5 M for the family wagon any day!

The one Yank Tank I've admired is this old girl

and I'd gladly add a R32 GTR as an investment car

50 minutes ago, MaxPower said:

good to see you could find the previous owner, did you change the ownership of those other plates? am a little worried as they were in my name. cheers shell is looking good

Sorry Max - keep forgetting, mostly because I haven't been down the shed for a few months but I'll sort it tonight. Any chance you could message me the details of the guy you got the shell from? Just trying to put as many of the pieces into the ownership puzzle as I can.

Toyota themselves didn't have anything on file, but my friend used used their name and accreditation to get some info for me so I have a good starting point with previous rego history

Nah the shell was stripped, good call with Toyota though. I'll hit up the compliance place tomorrow and see what I really need to have.

14 minutes ago, chasinthemirage said:

Doesn't appear on carjam at all or the info is hidden? I've got access to Motocheck at work if that's any use?

yeah it just says it's invalid as it only has access to limited chassis numbers - i'll pm you the Chassis Number

1 hour ago, tortron said:

Car jam report off the chassis number

Didn't come up on carjam unfortunately

54 minutes ago, Carsnz123 said:

Why do you need proof? The compliance officer will have that information available to them. 

I just don't want to do all the work and then not be able to register it because of silly paperwork/proof of ownership yadda yadda........so you saying I don't need anything like that?

Hey Guys. My new ke25 shell has no paperwork history, but a quick call to LTNZ ( via the chassis number) and they told me it was last registered in August 2006, however they wouldn't give me any of that in writing for some strange reason. I need some sort of proof etc to get it re registered so they suggested I fill out a CA03 Alternative Documents Form and pay them $184 (their hourly rate btw) for the pleasure.......any words of wisdom before go further with this?

I swear by Sikaflex urethane, but you need to use the complimentary clear primer/activator to prepare the glass and aperture to avoid any bonding issues. (3min flash off time) If you've got fresh paint on the aperture, then give the bonding area a quick scuff with scotch pad and use the ska black primer (10min cure time).

If you have a yarn to a local Smith and Smith they might let you buy a tube and have a nearly empty activator and primer for cheap/free.

2 hours ago, Otodat said:

Good score, that shell looks dam tidy

Barn find quality! Can't wait until we get some good weather so I can get stuck in

This space?

more accurately.......watch this space

Watch this space.....